HELP! troubles with my ka-t. Was running perfect not even a week ago and nowthis

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:41 PM 11/28/2009

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:42 PM 11/28/2009

[DevilMB3017]

Move your MAF 14-16 inches from your turbo. Put an air filter on your MAF.

Nissan MAFs are notoriously sensitive to air turbulence. If I take off my air filter and wave my hand infront of my MAF, my car dies. Seriously.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:45 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

for the third f***in time this week remove the valve cover breather tube from the goddamn charge pipe

f***
Modified by neverlift at 2:26 PM 9/30/2009

[neverlift]

sorry so angry, its just getting old, I can read a sentence and KNOW what you guys are doing wrong.

but now you get to send me your "bad turbo"

also move your maf that is the hard start not wanting to rev issue 90% sure.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:46 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

I stand corrected, it looks like it goes into the charge pipe(like the others this week), the idle valve can have pressure, its no biggy.

the maf also needs to have a straight pipe pre maf

IIRC the neo will randomly reset itself. check your settings.
Modified by neverlift at 8:51 PM 9/30/2009

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:47 PM 11/28/2009

[WDRacing]

Get some cheap oil and do a oil change. Pull and clean the plugs with a brass brush. Look at all the vacuum lines and piping, paying particular attention to all of the silicone couplers. If one of those is cracked or popped off it will cause all kinds of problems.

I think 5-5 are the correct settings for the MAF, check the other settings as well. Do you have a wideband? If not when idling remove fuel until the idle starts get rough. Then add enough in to smooth it out, then stop the idle is set. Look at the % you have and apply that to the other settings until the rpm where you start to see boost. This should allow the car to start and run better. Assuming it actually has a over fueling issue. If removing fuel doesn't help then add it back in.

WD

[trackslut240]

having similar issues, but mine didnt even run properly, using a z32 maf, scooby 610cc injectors(got them a while back on a deal), t25, ebay piping, ebay intercooler, iridium plugs. i have my doubts on the maf, starts dumping fuel, have to change the oil and start over. i didnt get time to get it running, will try it again next week. dont feel like posting a new thread about issues which have been dealt with before. my other suspect is that the caps on the injectors. two of them have their dampening washer unglued. not sure of thats an issue. i tried lowering the fuel pressure to 20psi but that didnt work either. it tries to fire but then dies. let me know how you fixed it. and i will post up my findings next week.

[neverlift]

maf wired correct?

is that bov recircd? wait do ssqv open at idle, I never checked mine before failure.rs ftmfw shreeek whistle whine chirp whiiiiiiir like a f***ing r2d2 unit under my hood

[trackslut240]

yep maf wired correctly, ssqv is open, and i think it does stay open a bit. i am waiting for my ecu to come back from down under. i had the bikirom which fried itself as soon as i turboed... how convenient

got an emance ecu but i gave the wrong info for injectors, told him it was 550 when they actually were 610s. he sent me the 610 tune, i highly doubt its the ecu, i know that people have had issues with him. but i have also read a lot of his cars running great with no issues. \

would the unglued injector dampener washer make the injector get stuck? how i installed it back was position the washer on the injector then screw the cap back on. with the bikirom ecu i can setup the maps to be stock and run with no maf, it runs crappy but at least not rich. i just have this next week to move it out of my uncles garage. if all else fails...plan b: install stock injectors, stock ecu, disconnect wastegate(always open). park it till i figure out what to do next.

sorry for thread jacking h-eater240

any updates from your situation?

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:48 PM 11/28/2009

[trackslut240]

did u try connecting the iacv pipe back in? coz i read u disconnected it but have u reconnected it. thats a vacuum leak right there, it needs metered air to manage the idle. have u or can u try a different maf? iacv can take boost, bends dont affect airflow as long as maf is straight and away from turbo. dont crank with that fuel enriched oil...that will wipe everything clean and do more damage.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:50 PM 11/28/2009

[DevilMB3017]

so where it should run to?? i had in the charge pipe at first but heard this was bad. oil change going down tomorrow

Wait, you have no IACV?!

You need to have that coming off the charge pipe before the throttle body in your setup, or it won't see any metered air...

[WDRacing]

The IACV can get its vacuum source from anywhere before the TB. That's the only air keeping the motor alive. Tell me it's not plugged?

[neverlift]

if your bov is open at idle then that can be the issue, you are metering x air but x is actually going to the motor. try unplugging the bov and see if she will start/idle

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:50 PM 11/28/2009

[Chris28]

You can get parts for cheaper than buying the whole ams crate engine.

Try doing a boost leak test. That will find vacuum leaks as well.

[neverlift]

the afc should let you take care of the bov being vta, but I know suck through and vta bov dont go very well, without afc help.

[DevilMB3017]

The HKS SSQV has no adjustment for idle - there are no springs like other BOVs.

Did you put a filter over your MAF? I cannot stress that enough...

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:51 PM 11/28/2009

[neverlift]

hard to say, you did not drive the car in that condition, but the excessive starting is no good.

HELL YES, it matters more than you would think.nissan used a pretty sensitive afm for the ka, well all of the afm's lol

check the apexi site for the hw number for s14,

try playing with the afc settings, my stock maf ran great, with odd settings, hell my current settings are odd(n60 maf stock ecu its at 1in 5out )

[GTR PrYdE]

A couple things that I ran into on my build-

Unbolt the fuel rail off the manifold, while still completely hooked up- turn key forward. That will let you know 100% that fuel isn't leaking from the injectors- it's worth it to know.

Make sure your Coolant Temp Sensor is hooked up and or working correctly. It's cheap to replace too- makes starting a pain in the a** because it dumps way too much fuel when it goes out.

Get a multimeter and check the resistance between all the injectors- since they're used they might be out of spec or bad- should be between 10-14ohms

Those are two cheap things that might help out alot..

[trackslut240]

that was exactly what i was planning to do, move them away and tie four coke bottles to see how much fuel they are pulsing.

didnt think of the coolant temp sensor, will change that too.

and ohm the injectors.

i guess both me and h-eater240 will have an update monday night.coz both of us are working crazy hours i guess.

thanks for all the inputs and tips. its just that sometimes i get a brain fart when i have an issue with the car. more heads is more ideas.

i dont know what it is with flooding, my 2001 suzuki bandit has also flood and have to change oil and all to clean it up..

[neverlift]

dont replace anything until you test it first, the cts is simple to test, check it against the fsm unless you just want the assurance .I did my cts, without checking and I'll be damned if I didnt waste 20 bux, it was my knock sensor unplugged. So I could have bought some oil or something instead.

[h-eater240]

Modified by h-eater240 at 7:53 PM 11/28/2009

[Chris28]

I'm running 370cc's and a stock MAF on a tune by EFI Specialist. It was $305 and in my opinion, worth every penny for it.

Re-tunes are only 50 bucks for it, so when you upgrade you don't have shell out a bunch of cash for a new tune.