it cured all my starting and alternator problems instantly.

For Sale: Sr altenator 60... Greddy sr20 RAS 47

Page 17 of http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1994_Q45/el.pdf

Indicates that the second wire from that connector, the white one is fused over 10A to the battery and the other goes off somewhere to the interior of the car.

I would hazard a guess that one of them is to enable the field coil so the alternator will actually start generating power. There is the resistor in there as well.

Modified by Bart at 2:18 PM 11/11/2008

Modified by Bart at 2:19 PM 11/11/2008

One of these wires (White in the FSM) wires goes to constant +12V.

The other goes through the "Alternator 'L' Resistor" and then to a +12 from the car's 'ON' position.

The diagnostic display has a connection to each side of the "Alternator 'L' Resistor".
No mention of the resistors value.

Futher more, if you take the FSM's perspective, in your case, the G/Y is S and the W/R is L. Where S is battery voltage sense (fused to constant +12V) and L is charge waring light. From here: http://www.autoshop101.com/tra....html

However then there is no ignition 'on wire' in this situation. What I assume is that the warning light and the ignition occur on the same line. By measuring the voltage on each side of the 'L' Resistor the diagnostic unit is able to determine charge state. This line is also connected to switched +12 so the alternator can figure out when the car is switched on.

Need to track down a Alternator resistor perhaps?

..offtopic
forgot to ask, Bart, can you take a photo of one of the coils, the connector of the coil, and some detailed photos of your ignition transistor and connector for me?

Thanks

I cant believe you mounted the turbo without showing us the whole assembly and how its tied together.

thats the best part!!!

My new radiator

Turbo with plumbing installed, all ready to go

RB electric scavenge pump

The problem you are having is as follows, you need to put the cluster bulb cable on an actual bulb with power on the oppisite side or add some sort of resistance to it, the bulb completes the circuit here and the alternator wont charge with out it. I chased this problem down for a week and went thru two alternators before i figured it out.

If you connect both wires to power it will charge however it wont charge correctly, this would be a temporary fix just to get by.

As for the resistor thats stated in the fsm i have been thru the entire q45 chassis harness and engine harness and have found nothing that resembles a resistor for the alternator. It either built in the alternator or into the ecu.

This is probably too late but I didn't use any idle control at all! The ecu (Autronic) does it all without the need for even TB adjustment. We were going to adjust the TB if needed but it has proven to start in any weather, including sub zero Rotorua in the middle of winter, without any issues.
To give you an idea of how unneccassary it is, I can cold start the motor and sit a glass of rum and coke on the manifold while it is still at fast idle. It does not get shacken off even once the idle slows after 30 seconds or so!

In my book that is a pretty relevant test to!

And I thought I was the only person to wake up to a rum and coke!

Now that is just twisting my words to justify you actions!!!!!!!!! Well done!!

Bit of welding

Bit of paint

This is my atempt of an Xpipe, I dont like the way it turned out, i will modify it before i fully weld it so its more of an X shape, but for now im running with it the way it is so i can complete the rest of the exhaust.

Pipe under the diff

I bought some rubber exhaust mounts and made up some stainless steel exhaust hangers

Close up of the hanger and rubber mount

I kind of copied the merge pipe in this website

http://www.surefloexhaust.com.au/xpipe.htm
Today i started fully welding it, so far its ok

I should mention the outlets arnt mounted right up so the right is a little lower at the moment

Quote, originally posted by Bart »

The only thng im worried about is the remote housing has no spring loaded ball valve as the orignal. Will this effect oil pressure?

Well, the factory T-Stat opens at 170*F, I like to keep mine between 175-195*.

Have you mentioned what the rest of the plans for the car is after the swap is completed?

What you have done here is almost exactly what I did to start with and it caused oil pressure to be about 30psi!
I modified it so that I had the factory bypass valve at the oil pump and that solved the problem. I hope this doesn't happen to you but be prepared for it. I'd try what you have but keep a close eye of the pressure.