Barts 1973 LJ Torana VH41 Twin turbo project

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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Bart
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Some Hooker pics

My new radiator

Turbo with plumbing installed, all ready to go

RB electric scavenge pump



gs14racer
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Bart wrote:Hey guysI did a search on wiring up the alternator and found a few unanswered threads except a couple which wernt entirley clear.

I connected the main thick cable to 12v.Just wondering the 2 small wires on the plug, my guess is one goes to a cluster light and the other to 12v?The problem im having is battery is not charging.Thanks guys
The problem you are having is as follows, you need to put the cluster bulb cable on an actual bulb with power on the oppisite side or add some sort of resistance to it, the bulb completes the circuit here and the alternator wont charge with out it. I chased this problem down for a week and went thru two alternators before i figured it out.

If you connect both wires to power it will charge however it wont charge correctly, this would be a temporary fix just to get by.

As for the resistor thats stated in the fsm i have been thru the entire q45 chassis harness and engine harness and have found nothing that resembles a resistor for the alternator. It either built in the alternator or into the ecu.

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sr20deTsomeday118
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subscribed!

darinz
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Bart wrote:I can take more pics. Im using a programable after market ECU, using a MAP sensor. I have another air signal line going to the MAP sensor on the other side of the manifold. A filter sounds good but no way i can feed another line from this outlet to the ECU
This is probably too late but I didn't use any idle control at all! The ecu (Autronic) does it all without the need for even TB adjustment. We were going to adjust the TB if needed but it has proven to start in any weather, including sub zero Rotorua in the middle of winter, without any issues.To give you an idea of how unneccassary it is, I can cold start the motor and sit a glass of rum and coke on the manifold while it is still at fast idle. It does not get shacken off even once the idle slows after 30 seconds or so!

In my book that is a pretty relevant test to!

T45
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darinz wrote:
I can cold start the motor and sit a glass of rum and coke on the manifold...

In my book that is a pretty relevant test to!
And I thought I was the only person to wake up to a rum and coke!

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Bart
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darinz wrote:
This is probably too late but I didn't use any idle control at all! The ecu (Autronic) does it all without the need for even TB adjustment. We were going to adjust the TB if needed but it has proven to start in any weather, including sub zero Rotorua in the middle of winter, without any issues.To give you an idea of how unneccassary it is, I can cold start the motor and sit a glass of rum and coke on the manifold while it is still at fast idle. It does not get shacken off even once the idle slows after 30 seconds or so!

In my book that is a pretty relevant test to!
It works ok so far, although i havnt driven it too far so ill see how it performs

darinz
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T45 wrote:
And I thought I was the only person to wake up to a rum and coke!
Now that is just twisting my words to justify you actions!!!!!!!!! Well done!!

iViLe
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bloody insane Bart!

Kalypso
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completely, sick

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Bart
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Thanks guys

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Bart
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Tack welding the exhaust and the rear muffler, I have tucked the muffler up and will use turn down exhaust tips. You will see the muffler even less when the car is on the ground as the car is up on stands.

Bit of welding

Bit of paint

This is my atempt of an Xpipe, I dont like the way it turned out, i will modify it before i fully weld it so its more of an X shape, but for now im running with it the way it is so i can complete the rest of the exhaust.

Pipe under the diff

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Bart
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Exhaust pipes are all tack welded up, rear mufflers are tucked away, no dump pipes yet.



I bought some rubber exhaust mounts and made up some stainless steel exhaust hangers







Close up of the hanger and rubber mount


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Bart
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Busy over the new years breakHad an *** of a job pulling out the exhaust in one piece, anyway here it is all tacked up, looks ****ty as it needs a clean up after its been tack welded.

I kind of copied the merge pipe in this website

http://www.surefloexhaust.com.au/xpipe.htm Today i started fully welding it, so far its ok






Kalypso
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....sensational

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Bart
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Thanks mate

slacker_221
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Love Costum Fabrication! beautifull!!!

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Bart
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Thanks mateHey guysI just removed my oil filter housing and replaced it with one of those remote oil filter housing. The only thng im worried about is the remote housing has no spring loaded ball valve as the orignal. Will this effect oil pressure?

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Bart
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Just a tease

I should mention the outlets arnt mounted right up so the right is a little lower at the moment

Kalypso
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can't help you with the oil filter relocation... maybe someone else will know
Bart wrote:
The only thng im worried about is the remote housing has no spring loaded ball valve as the orignal. Will this effect oil pressure?

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Bart
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thanks mate hope so some picsBasically i have 2 (-8) lines from the block (where the original filter housing was) and these two lines go to the remote oil filter housing which is mounted to the inner gaurd.


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gammer_ghn
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i opened this thread and jizzed my pants.What trans mission are you going to use? sorry i didnt see a pic of it.

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Bart
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You dirty boy clean yourself up

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Bart
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Just wondering what is the normal operating water temperature for a VH41??Please specify C or F

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SuperHatch
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Bart wrote:Just wondering what is the normal operating water temperature for a VH41??Please specify C or F
Well, the factory T-Stat opens at 170*F, I like to keep mine between 175-195*.

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Bart
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Thanks mate thats what mine is showing

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audtatious
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Great work!

Have you mentioned what the rest of the plans for the car is after the swap is completed?

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Carl H
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consult claims i run around 80* pretty solid...fan kicks on around 75*c but the probe is in the lower hose so realiscally its more like 80-85ish.

darinz
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Bart wrote:Thanks mateHey guysI just removed my oil filter housing and replaced it with one of those remote oil filter housing. The only thng im worried about is the remote housing has no spring loaded ball valve as the orignal. Will this effect oil pressure?


What you have done here is almost exactly what I did to start with and it caused oil pressure to be about 30psi!I modified it so that I had the factory bypass valve at the oil pump and that solved the problem. I hope this doesn't happen to you but be prepared for it. I'd try what you have but keep a close eye of the pressure.

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Bart
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The oil pressure reading on the gauge is on half, its a Torana GTR gauge so that pretty good pressure.

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Bart
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I think the first thing is to have the car certified by an engineer then registered.Eventually do some drag and circuit racing.But i have another project in the pipe line which requires full attention and eventually/hopfully turn it into a business and make a bit of money. Its to do with turbo chargers etc. I want to use my car as a selling point for this business (i hope to start) Time will tell


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