Replacing the interior lights in switches.....

[Ozzie]

What a job!

I got tired of only having 1 door window switch lit up, 1 window switch next to the shifter lit up, and NO lighting in my climate control buttons.

From what I had read in other threads regarding this, I decided to get LEDs to replace them, so I never had to bother with them again.

Well, you can't just wire up and LED directly to the 12V supply of the car, so a resistor has to be soldered in series with the LED.....I am not an electronics expert by any means...... I had to buy a soldering iron to go with the LEDs and resistors(ie: No real clue about soldering!)Internet research was my friend.I looked at how to get good solder joints, what value resistor to use, and looked to see if the local electronics store carried the items I needed.

I got more than I needed for the job..... to allow for stuff ups.

I bought 20, 3mm green LEDs with a 5.6 cmd value (not too bright, has stock appearance when lit) @ 20c each ($4 total)

and 20, 560R resistors (Green-Blue-Brown-Gold Leaf) @ 4c each (80c total)

I also had to make up a test light out of 1 of the LEDs and resistor, because they will only light up when installed the correct way. So I used my test light to find out what pin required the resistor to be touching, then went and installed the bulb holder, with new bulb, correctly orientated.

Too much hassle? Maybe, but like I said, I never have to worry about them ever again, and they turned out great!

There are 6 bulbs in the climate control, but one of those is 5mm, and was still working, so I left it alone. So I changed 5 there4 door window switches, and 4 center console window switches.

It did take a while, but I am happy with the result. I will get pics when I can get hold of a camera.
Modified by ozzie! at 6:58 AM 3/16/2007

[szh]

Pictures, please!

Z

[burijon]

Unfreakinbelievable! Yes please also post a picture of one of the bulbs with the resistor soldered to it. This may just be the fix I am looking for as well. This would make a good articles sticky. Good on ya mate!

[Ozzie]

I am working all this weekend, so I will TRY to take some pics on Monday, host on photo bucket, then link here.

But for a start, you will need these (1 per LED)....http://www.radioshack.com/prod...21&cp

I found 3mm red LEDs, but no green ones, but for an idea of what you are looking for....http://www.radioshack.com/sear...&sr=1

I can get the green 3mm LEDs for 20c each, and probably send a few to you if need be.http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/...Z4079

And all you have to do, is solder the resistor onto the longer prong of the LED.I trimmed the wires before soldering, to make the package fit into the smaller space available behind all the switches.

And the ones in the center, next to the shifter, require you to remove a couple wires just so you can get the bulbs out.I just heated up one end of the offending wire, removed it and pulled it out of the way temporarily.


Modified by ozzie! at 8:38 AM 3/16/2007

[Ozzie]

Actually, I was thinking.....

I could make up the LEDs, solder on the resistors, and then send them.

Then it's up to you to install them......

Anyone keen on this idea?

If a few people are interested, and are willing to pay for parts and postage, then I can't see it being a problem!

EDIT: Hmmm, yes, I do see a problem...... the LED needs to be inserted into the rubber/plastic holder before the resistor can be soldered on.... Plastic holders can be seen on the right of this picture, with the stock bulbs still in placeThe round plastic ones are found behind the climate control, rectangular rubber ones are used for the window switches.

[DrewQ45]

See #74 Led bulbs on site linked below. They are for automotive applications and the resistance is already built in. They can be ordered without the casing if you wish. These seem like direct replacements for instrument lighting in the Q and other Jap cars.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html

B8.3D Instrument Cluster LED bulb 1-LED Instrument Cluster and Gauge illumination bulb. #74 LED bulb installed in twist-lock socket baseSmaller version of T.15 seen above $ 1.59




Modified by DrewQ45 at 9:44 PM 3/15/2007

[silver2k2]

Nice find drew

[Skibane]

Another source for automotive LED bulb replacements:

Autolumination

[qsiguy]

Nice work, that's a time consuming job. We replaced about 25-30 surface mount LEDs in the instrument panel for a guy with a Toyota Celica GTS a while back so he could change the color of the gauges. That was a tedious job.

FYI, it doesn't matter which lead you put the resistor on, just that you get the polarity right. The resistor will limit current no matter which lead it's on. Many LED's will have one lead that's shorter than the other one, that will be the cathode (-) lead.

[Ozzie]

That's handy to know....I found it worked on the first probe i soldered the resistor to, so to play it safe, I stuck with that throughout the whole set.Also, most round LEDs have a "flat" side, to help identify the cathode too.I only went with what I learnt by browsing firefox the day before I tackled the job, looking for LEDs, soldering, etc....

25-30 LEDs??? now that's commitment to a task!(Anyone else who tries this will find out why I say that)

PS: Photos tonight!!!!

[qsiguy]

...25-30 LEDs??? now that's commitment to a task!(Anyone else who tries this will find out why I say that).....

Yes, and these were surface mount LED's with no leads. They are about 2mm x 3mm in size. Had to use tweezers and a magifying glass.

[Ozzie]

FINALLY....... (sorry I took my time)

Now, it's not easy trying to get photos to turn out focussed and clear in the dark...... especially because I couldn't use the flash.

First one is of the climate control.(No, the buttons on the right don't light up pink. I don't know why they appear to in the picture)



This is the gear lever surround, with the window switches lit up quite nicely....



The drivers side window switch. (They all light up now, but didn't see the point of photographing all of them)



And, after a week, one I realised i had forgotten... the radio/climate control in the rear fold down armrest.



Once again, sorry for the photo quality, but I needed to capture the light from the controls, as they are soft lit, the same as the OEM globes, and the flash washes it out.......

[DrewQ45]

FINALLY....... (sorry I took my time)

Now, it's not easy trying to get photos to turn out focussed and clear in the dark...... especially because I couldn't use the flash......

Good work Oz,

The window buttons are lit a bit too bright for my tastes but it looks good, better than dark. You can get better shots on your digi camera by changing to long exposure settings, but you'll have to steady your hand on something or use a tripod.

I ordered LEDs from the site I posted earlier in this thread but mine will be red. $1.79 each and I ordered around 15 of em. I'll find a way to tone down the lights on the switches if they're not already dim... they are designed for interior illumination.

BTW, what is that thing just above your radio? Also, I don't have the controls in the rear.

[Ozzie]

I know they look really bright, but thats probably because they had extended exposure time.They aren't that bright IRL. (I am sure you will be happy with yours, if not, they require a higher rated resistor, which will dim them more, and extend the LEDs life)

I guess $1.79ea is ok, but I paid $0.24ea for the LED and resistor (20c for each LED, 4c for each resistor) At the same time, I had to make my own (solder).... but it was a good learning experience Are the rear controls a JDM only item?The rear fold down center armrest opens, and has a storage bin and the controls located inside.

And I think what you are asking about,(above my stereo) is a fold out TFT monitor...

Modified by ozzie! at 9:44 AM 4/7/2007
Modified by ozzie! at 9:47 AM 4/7/2007

[DrewQ45]

I know they look really bright, but thats probably because they had extended exposure time.They aren't that bright IRL. (I am sure you will be happy with yours, if not, they require a higher rated resistor, which will dim them more, and extend the LEDs life)

I guess $1.79ea is ok, but I paid $0.24ea. At the same time, I had to make my own (solder).... but it was a good learning experience Are the rear controls a JDM only item?The rear fold down center armrest opens, and has a storage bin and the controls located inside..

The ones I bought already have the resistance built in so I don't need to buy resistors along with. Yeah... that rear setup is definately jdm... never seen it here. About your fold down armrest and cup-holder on drivers seat... shut up! I'm jealous. Nice car u got there.
Modified by DrewQ45 at 9:07 PM 4/6/2007

[Ozzie]

Oh, you guys are missing out!The radio controls are for the factory head unit, which I never had... but the current head units use a remote anyway!

The climate controls are pretty nifty.They control the rear only, so any inputs don't affect the front at all.You can adjust the temperature using a sliding switch (the one with the really bright, but tiny LED) turn the climate control on and off, and operate the activated charcoal air filter, which is found on the rear parcel shelf.

[q45VIP]

Is there any way you could post pics of the LED with the resistor in place?

Thanks.m(_ _)m

[Ozzie]

All installed.... none i can take a photo of for you....

We have an LED, like this....

Then simply solder a resistor like this....

onto one of the prongs of the LED.

(Please keep in mind, that the LED will need to be inserted into the mounting cup/block that the original bulb was in before you solder on the LED, as they only have holes large enough to fit the prongs of the LED through)

I don't think it matters which one you solder it to, or which direction the resistor points...... as the LED will light up, once it's connected to power the right way. If you put it in the wrong way (wrong polarity) then the LED simply won't light up.Try the opposite polarity, and it should work.

I was actually thinking about making a bunch of them and sending them to Nico members....but to do that, I need the little blocks and cups that hold the original bulbs, so I can mail them off, then get the other person's in exchange. One, to save on downtime for the end user, and two, so I have replacement cups/blocks to refurbish for the next person...

Anyone want to pull a few of them off a wrecked Q (or 2) for me, and send them my way???

[66mgb]

Absolutely stunning. This ranks as one of the best (and cheapest) mods to keep the Q fresh. I plan on tackling this in the very near future.I'm curious what to use for the lights in the sunvisors?

[Ozzie]

I haven't touched my sunvisor lights...But if they ever decide to burn out, I would consider buying some 8 LED festoon bulbs from ebay (white), and pulling the end caps off, soldering on some extra wire and then fit to the holding block.Kinda like these.....



Cheaper than buying white LED's on their own (white ones are more expensive), and a lot easier to make ready to fit. No need to solder on resistors, or figure out what resistance value they need to have....

[DrewQ45]

I've never seen a sunvisor light burn out in any Q. Last week I received 15 red instrument LEDs from Superbright and will be installing them sometime this week/end. Too busy right now.

I plan to do the HVAC buttons, cruise control and all the window switches.

Clock and AC display are already red....


Modified by DrewQ45 at 8:54 AM 4/16/2007

[TBrack]

OH MAN! I had no idea the therm controls had lights in em

guess mine went out a longgg time ago lol

[TBrack]

ok so I'm ordering bulbs from superbrightleds.com and I need some help.

I think I found the leds for the clock. I need to know what to get for the thermostat and the gauge cluster...

[Ozzie]

I've never seen a sunvisor light burn out in any Q.

Guess I won't ever have to bother buying the LED's and modifying them for the sunvisor lights then

I figured they are not a common light to blow.... I mean, how many hours would they be used for over the entire life of the car? 1-2 hours?

Besides, the women might complain that it washes out their faces and make them look awful

[DrewQ45]

Get the #74 bulbs. They sell them as "T1.5" in a twist lock base, but the base doesnt work for the Q. They claim that you can buy them without the base, (hopefully cheaper) but I didn't see a way. Give them a call.

What color are you going with? The HVAC takes needs five, then two for the cruise control switch and eight in all for the window switches. I'm thinking about ordering a few more for the shifter lights but I have to pull it apart first to see what bulb it takes.
Modified by DrewQ45 at 5:13 AM 4/17/2007

[TBrack]

Get the #74 bulbs. They sell them as "T1.5" in a twist lock base, but the base doesnt work for the Q. They claim that you can buy them without the base, (hopefully cheaper) but I didn't see a way. Give them a call.

What color are you going with? The HVAC takes needs five, then two for the cruise control switch and eight in all for the window switches. I'm thinking about ordering a few more for the shifter lights but I have to pull it apart first to see what bulb it takes.

Modified by DrewQ45 at 5:13 AM 4/17/2007

I'm doing blue to match my rear deck cloth and other blue accent bulbs throughout the car and stereo.

My HVAC takes 4 then I was planning on doing the gauge cluster (wedge base standard) and the clock. That is all I plan on doing for now.

I don't want to do too much custom work but will those #74 bulbs work with my clock and hvac after some modding?

[DrewQ45]

I'm doing blue to match my rear deck cloth and other blue accent bulbs throughout the car and stereo.

My HVAC takes 4 then I was planning on doing the gauge cluster (wedge base standard) and the clock. That is all I plan on doing for now.

I don't want to do too much custom work but will those #74 bulbs work with my clock and hvac after some modding?

HVAC, yes. The clock might use larger brighter bulbs. I have a clock laying around so I'll check when I get home later. Don't think LEDs would work too well there since the light really needs to spread.

[DrewQ45]

What a job!

You ain't lyin brotha!

So far I've installed red/amber LEDs in the window switches around the shifter. It took me hours due to the fabricating. You probably had an easier time because your diodes were smaller. The diode circumference were slightly too large for the hole so I ended up drilling between the contacts. Of course you know I turned a few of the diodes wrong which I found out after soldering them. Some window switches stopped working because I started out using a soldering gun rather than an iron... it generated too much heat and caused the rocker contacts to slide in the plastic... I had to reheat it to reposition...

When disassembling the power door lock disable switch, I lost the spring that allows the button to lock into place when clicking on/off. I eventually found it and took another 25 mins figuring out how to postion it. Had to get a magnifying glass to figure it out.

I now know that human skin smells like fried steak when you dont pay attention and pick up the soldering iron the wrong way.

Just a bunch of stuff... Murphy's law. Eventually, I got it all working though. It's a learning curve. I'll be sailing smooth from here... I hope.

[96Qowner]

I now know that human skin smells like fried steak when you dont pay attention and pick up the soldering iron the wrong way.

Just a bunch of stuff... Murphy's law.

LOL! Ain' that Murphy guy a hoot!

[Ozzie]

You ain't lyin brotha!

So far I've installed red/amber LEDs in the window switches around the shifter. It took me hours due to the fabricating. You probably had an easier time because your diodes were smaller. The diode circumference were slightly too large for the hole so I ended up drilling between the contacts. Of course you know I turned a few of the diodes wrong which I found out after soldering them. Some window switches stopped working because I started out using a soldering gun rather than an iron... it generated too much heat and caused the rocker contacts to slide in the plastic... I had to reheat it to reposition...

When disassembling the power door lock disable switch, I lost the spring that allows the button to lock into place when clicking on/off. I eventually found it and took another 25 mins figuring out how to postion it. Had to get a magnifying glass to figure it out.

I now know that human skin smells like fried steak when you dont pay attention and pick up the soldering iron the wrong way.

Just a bunch of stuff... Murphy's law. Eventually, I got it all working though. It's a learning curve. I'll be sailing smooth from here... I hope.

Diodes were the correct size (3mm) for my setup, but I did have to build them from scratch, then thread the wires through the little blocks, being careful not to rip them!Fortunately, I only had 1 window switch stop working due to overheating issues. I had to reheat 1 tab on the underside, and clamp it into the plastic to re-establish contact with the switch.

Still want to refurbish the gear shifter switch panel for other people?