Oil catch can, still have to put in the breathers, ill just pick up some little k&n filters.

Had a friend tig up the fitting for the water pump block off.

Heres the Trust oil filter block, no oil cooler yet *

I've been warned by several race engine builders now that these filters are ****house, the filter cores break down under the high oil pressure loads that are pushed through them resulting in starvation issues amongst other things!

I've been advised that ryco filters (ryko?) cause no such problems.

Other than that... nice work! Do you really think an oil catch can is necessary ?

I got some new nissan oil filters on the way.

As far as whether its nescary or not, I think so. This motor will probably spend a lot of time at or near redline, and i know theres gonna be a lot of oil vapor floating around. I spent a whole day cleaning out the intake manifold, i dont want it going back in lol. besides it looks cool:)

Everyone the adapter plate is done

The shop made four more of them

Price will be 475.00 plus shipping both ways

Thats for the plate, machining your bellhousing and hardware. Its made to work with the 300zx clutch , flywheel, and starter.

I should have it tommorow, pics coming soon.

Does your motor or your transmission have to be milled down, and then the adapter plate welded on where the old bolts used to be?

If anyone can directly explain how the adapters work that would be awesome - I never quite get it :P

The transmission has to be milled down, no welding is performed at all. The plate bolts the the engine, then the transmission to the plate. Its pretty simple, just how it looks in the pictures.

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I don't know if it will but when I do this swap I'm gonna try.
I figure if the tach works off an ignitor signal, why not try just running the tach off of ONE of the VH ignitors? Then you will get 4 pulses per revolution and the tach will read right. (But only if the factory tach uses an ignitor.)
There's only one way to find out. I believe it would work the worst that could happen would be it would read 2x engine speed or not work at all so why not try?

I am working on a fix for it as we speak, it wont be too difficult and you will be able to do it your self.

FYI the starter meshed up fine, turned the motor over on its own power today for the first time. just had to notch the adapter plate a bit and the block a bit, nothing major though.

Havent had a lot of time as of late, started a new job and have been forced to slow down a bit. It should be up and running soon

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Also, i read through your thread and ur using a TT 300zx transmision correct. Also you are going to be using the starter from a Z32?

Keep us updated by the way.

Thanks

Not even close.

Due to a gross miss calculation on my part, i put one of the primaries on the pass header thru the starter and that kind of side tracked me for a while. I cut it off and im just gonna re route it.

Anyway heres todays progress , put the tranny back together took 15 minutes total.

Good news is the mazworx tranny to chassis mount for the sr20 kit is a direct bolt on in my application which means that the drive shaft for the vg trans with sr20 will bolt on too, makes this ten time easier

Once again thanks for the compliments.

Yes i am going to heat shield everything on the pass side. Shifter is about an 1 inch to far back, no biggie the mazworx kit is provisioned for it already.

Got the driveshaft on. Another Mazworx part.

Engine coming out again for the 24 billionth time

Since i made the headers with out a tranny attached to the motor i wanted to make sure it didnt crash the headers into something after it was installed so did the driverside today

My Mile and a half of steering column clearance

Clutch will be here tommorow and after this weekend motor should be in there permanatly.

I might put it back on or i may leave it out and angle the radaitor forward ala rx-7 style.

Which ECU and Wiring setup are you using? Thats where Im stumped on my project!

Thanks

no, it wouldnt work.

im running the stock ecu and wiring for now

Its a z1 motorsports single disc should be good till 500lb/tq.

It all lined up fine, z32 pilot bearing even fit into the vh crank perfect.

Now if it would stop raining id put this f*cker in.

Just getting little odds and ends with the valve covers and the headers done.

Wrapped them today. Tie raps are just to hold them in place because i ran out of hose clamps, and safety wire. Now me nor my passengers will burn there feet by the floorboard.

KA-T why settle for anything less?