$150 later, the new key works usually in the first five attempts, so it takes only 20 seconds or so to start the car - a real improvement , but it still stinks. The key gets stuck just when the small square hole in the key is about to go into the key cylinder.

I don't want to get a new ignition cylinder and then have to buy another set of keys that do not match the doors. Any ideas on how to make this work? I have used graphite and moly grease to lubricate the key cylinder.

Has any one tried to rebuild a key cylinder - or maybe remove it and send it to a locksmith to rebuild?

[Should this be in the online mechanics section?]

Mine was replaced under the 100K warranty, so I don't know for sure...

Good luck!

Heath

2) Have a brand new key made based on your VIN number. Should be $50-$100. And then...

3) Have the ignition lock cylinder professionally readjusted/rebuilt based on the brand new key. Should be $50-$100.

Lol looked like he did!

I have done (1) and (2) already - the new factory key cost $142 plus tax from my friendly but inflated priced Infiniti dealer. The factory key is much better, it works about 1 out of 3 times! I'm going to do (3) - in California your $50-$100 is at least $200.

My key chains have always been lean, I hate wads of keys and dangly-things.

I was really hoping that this was fixed in the 94s and newer. Hopefully the rebuild isn't painfull (i.e. resonable price and it works!)

Quote, originally posted by Q451990 »

This type of lock is commonly called a "wafer lock" by locksmiths. Heath

Ahh, the double wafer tumbler: bane of lock-picks everywhere!

Does Nissan use side-bar wafers? Ugh...not fun at all.

4.08 VLSD, NICO 8-way ECU, full exhaust with custom headers,
Tokico Blues with Eibach springs, Stillen FSTB, 20mm RSB

1992 Inifiniti Q45, 123K, 3rd Owner, 17x7.5 Chrome Faulken Torque 5, 225/50/VR17 Toyo Proxes TPT, Active Swaybars, 94 Auto-Dimming Mirror, Chrome Inside Door Handles, Updated, Chain Guides, Bose, Tranny Cooler (2 Filters), Lucas Synthetics.

hmmmm... the price is sure right. But I don't see how that makes a difference. Does the ring somehow keep the cylinder aligned? Looser seems like it would be worse, not better. I'm going to take it apart and see. Thanks

My Q didn't come with the original key and I was going to have one made that's how all this came up. I just use a aftermarket key cut from a good locksmith.

If you think about it, Inifiniti even stopped using those keys.

They look really really cool, but over the long haul 150k cause problems I hear.

Done- Jeff Williams FSTB, Touring Rear Sway Bar, Valve Cover Gaskets, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs, Brakes, Michelin Pilot Exalto 96V tires, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned Throttle Body, Cleaned EGR, Steering Rack Boots, Upper Links, Tokiko Blues, Boots and Bump Stops, Replaced Various Bushings, Mobile 1 Oil and Filter, BG-44K, Synthetic Fluid in Diff.

Pending- Alignment, Transmission Cooler

1994 Black/Black Q45 150,500 miles
1998 Beige/Beige QX4 164,000 miles
1995 Black/Black J30 (RIP)
1997 Beige/Beige QX4 (RIP)

If your keychain looks like a building superintendant's, the ignition switch will wear very fast.

Modified by maxnix at 10:10 PM 10/2/2006

Discover the power of the button!

Damn Qship, does this mean I have to get this off my keychain?

Quote, originally posted by JedCoop »

My '92Q has over 190K. I have the original two factory keys. Both of which progressively have gotten worse and worse. They get stuck during insertion into the iginition key slot, now it takes five or so minutes to get the right magic combination to get the key inserted. ...so I bought a new factory key from Infiniti to solve the problem... $150 later, the new key works usually in the first five attempts, so it takes only 20 seconds or so to start the car - a real improvement , but it still stinks. The key gets stuck just when the small square hole in the key is about to go into the key cylinder.

I am experiencing the same problem with my car right now. It's real frustrating. I called Joe and he recommended calling a locksmith and also mentioned that he's not allowed to sell a new key to an out-of-state cutomer. I'm going to start calling around to see how much rebuilding a lock cylinder will cost.

When I bought my car, it came with an aftermarket key and the original valet key. I was wondering since I'm experiencing problems with my ignition (starting the car only, not the door lock), could it be, because of using the aftermarket key?

Try to beat these prices:

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/em...mrsZ1

Seems to me like it might be worthwhile to rip the whole thing out when the car starts to get long in the tooth and just stick and auto-zone ignition cylinder in the darn thing. My dealer gets 145 bucks for a new key.

Read all about it!
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/302127

I guess it's either have the doors and trunk redone to match the ignition or have the ignition redone to match the doors. At night, the keys looks so similar that sometimes I put the ignition key in the door or the door key in the ignition. The result is a key that won't turn and lots of swearing.

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NEW! '95 Q45t - JWT ECU, FSTB, Eibach springs, 20mm "Active" rear bar, trans cooler, '92 trans shifts at 7000 RPM - AWESOME!