The White Devil Oil System (Big Problems, Read the end result)

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WDRacing
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After running the car for the past 3 days or so, I've decided to post up the info. I was going to market this as a kit, but until I do, no sense in robbing my fellow DIY guys of the info.

This is done at your own risk fella's, if you mess this up you may seize a motor or blow your turbo seals. So mod at your own risk.

This is for everyone that doesn't want to drill the oil pan. I got the idea from Granatelli. They have a complete standalone oil system. It costs $1200 though, my way is way cheaper. Here we go...

You'll need the normal turbo drain adapter and hose barb fitting from Lowes or wherever. I used an elbo instead of a straight down fitting, since the oil is now being pulled from the motor and gravity isn't a concern. Then you'll need about 10 feet of OEM Heater hose, can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot. The size is 5/8 I believe. Just get hose that fits the turbo drain fitting and your golden. Have this hose connect to the input side of your new electric oil pump. The oil pump is a Shurflo Pump designed to run dry without overheating, but don't run it to long dry. I suggest a toggle for the switch to turn it off if your just sitting in the car with the radio on. I digress...Wire the pump to come on in ACC mode, or when the car is running for the noobs. Now here comes the tricky part. You can have the oil routed through a filter, a cooler a combo of both or simply straight back to the engine like I have mine right now. I'm adding a cooler, cause cooler oil makes a happy motor. It's just a mateer of adding more oil line. Once you make that choice, have the oil line run from the output of the oil pump back into the top of the motor. How you ask...this is the best part. Just drill a hole in the oil cap and mount a hose barb in it. Use some JB Weld to seal it up...BAM...all done. Now turn the car on and let it idle while you look for leaks. I ran my hose from the turbo under the motor and to the pump I mounted under the fuse box on the intake side of the car. The oil line then runs to the oil cap. Not a single problem so far.

The pump is a Shurflo pump, designed for a water pump on a RV, but I've seen them used for Methanol, Alcohol and now oil with no problems at all. You want the 2.8 Gallon an hour pump. These can be had at any RV store or online.

Feel free to post questions and comments.

WD


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D Money
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i heard rubber turbo oil lines clog up. maybe u should think of using an lines. sounds good though. lets see pics

Bronze MFP
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if you don't use an oil cooler between the turbo and the return to the oil cap, is there any risk to the cyl head by dumping hot turbo oil on it? like warping a camshaft in an extreme case?

Structure240sx
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the same oil is being pump up through the engine into the head. i suppose there would be a slight temp. difference but definitly not enough to cause any harm.

how much are these pumps, WD?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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damnit, i thought of returning the oil through the oil cap a while ago, I just didnt know what kind of pump to use so i put the project on the back burner. If you do a search, i bet you can find my post about it haha. Let me know where you got this pump, and what kind of connection did you use for the cap? I was thinking some sort of quick disconnect chuck type thing (like on air hoses and stuff) so you can just quick disconnect it when you want to put oil in.

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WDRacing
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My pump was $67 at RV World. You can also get them on EBAY or do a RV parts Google search. Shurflo also has a website.

Using the punmp lets you use a big oil cooler to, I can't wait to put mine in. But I'm more concerned with go fast parts right now.

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catty
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Great info WD. I was actually thinking about doing this the other day, but I just couldnt figure out what pump to use. Now if only I can find an rv parts store locally...

turtl631
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kinda cool. One huge question though-why would you want to add another part that can possibly fail and complicate the system? I understand teh problems with running lower on oil, drilling pans, etc. However, adding a pump to the system forces you to be dependent on it rather than a constant like gravity, as well as adding many more connections to leak, etc. Is it that bad to drill the pan?

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WDRacing
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By drilling the pan I've seen more turbo's go bad due to a restriction in the return line then any other cause. You also have to run 2 quarts low in some cases...

I have no leaks at all to date. The pump may go bad. I'm rigging a light to mine for that reason.

WD

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Ugh, 2 quarts low sucks. 4 quarts isnt even a large capacity to begin with. Between using the pump and the oil cooler, I bet you could easily use 4.5 quarts. This system seems cool WD, I just want to see how long it lasts.

N.O. Accorderz
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WDRacing wrote:By drilling the pan I've seen more turbo's go bad due to a restriction in the return line then any other cause. You also have to run 2 quarts low in some cases...

I have no leaks at all to date. The pump may go bad. I'm rigging a light to mine for that reason.

WD
i though this was a myth? in my other post regarding this a few members said there is NO need to run low on oil...now i'm back where i started...

so is it needed to run low oil?

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WDRacing
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SOme members, like Structure have been forced to run low. The oil level occasionally is over the drain bung, causing the oil to back up. Over time this will make your seals go bad.

I've got my mileage written down, so I'll be keeping track of the pump life. Hopefully it never goes bad. I did just find a site that has the same pump for 40 bucks though...so you can afford to change the pump out every so often. I know I will anyway. Just for peice of mind.

My big thing is running this pump allows me to do anything I want with the oil. Extra filter, huge oil cooler...

WD

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hm, thats true. an oil cooler woudl be a nice retrofit, make a duct for it from the front bumper, etc.

pr240sx
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I plan to use the same pump but on a water intercooler setupIts a Shurflo bait pump. Now some sugestionsYou can use any pump that is made to sustain high temps. Shurflo pumps are mostof the times plastic/fibeglass body with a plastic impeller.YOu can also use a magnetic type pump so that the impeller is driven by a magnet, very low amp draw.TO minimize the chance of "dry running" the pump, you can install a reservoir tank between the turbo and pump. Using a tank can lower the oil temp and minimize the oil foaming after the turbo.Shurflo makes oil changing pumps for boat engines but they are expensive as hell (200 range) There is also Jabsco and Johnson pumps that are rated high temp and are magnetic. I am sure that you can also use a small power steering pump driven by an electric motor or via belt.I think that is better to drill a small hole on the upper engine cover and install a fitting there. I think that to much oil on the head could lead to oil leaking past the valve seals,spark plug holes or worse, thru the breather hole.

This is a poor mans semi- dry sump system

EditWhy instead of using the car oiling system with these parts, use a separate oiling circuit like some superchargers?By using WD ideas, you only need to add a separate oil filter and reservoir.Even you can program a turbo timer to keep running the pump (and maybe fan for the oil cooler) after the cars shuts down. the possibilities are endless!!

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Jookmasta
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i dont know about that running only two quarts of oil thing. i know i run at least four quarts with no issues. The place where the pan is drilled is probably as high as you can go so for it to back up, all the oil would have to be in the pan i think. lol.

nonetheless, wd's idea is definitely something i probably wouldve done over the drilling of the pan as working with the valve cover is like cooking rice. Also, the option of an oil cooler is SO worth it. U need to patent the name of that system tho. Its too catchy to be left unclaimed.

paemt6220
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In Theory, You could add a reservoir and increase your capacity to what ever you want. It would work like a swirl pot in fuel systems.

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SSS
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I checked out the Granatelli system the other day, the pump they use looks like a Bosch external fuel pump.

As for a pump failure warning system, all is required is a voltage switch that will activate a LED in your field of vision.

kapower06
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earlier pr240 suggested a power steering pump... could anyone shed some light on this idea. As to if the pump would be alright with hot oil pumping threw it? or how to route the lines? thanks

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So I guess there is no need to run an oil restrictor anymore right? Also, What is the new site you found it at for $40? I am seriously thinking about doing this. Thanks.

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catty
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Also, What is the new site you found it at for $40?
Wondering exactly the same thing, I bought one last week for 60 at a local rv shop. I'm gonna be testing this setup out whenever my top feed fuel rail arrives(hopefully next week), get my intercooler repaired and pull out the old center section from my turbo(bolts stuck in exhaust housing). My finals are about to start though so I may be delayed. I'll let you know how my testing goes as well.

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hannibal
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Looks good, WD! Definitely a great alternative to drilling the pan.

Ive asked this question before, but how is the oil routed on an OEM turbo motor like the SR??

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WDRacing
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Sorry fella's the pump was a different spec, don't think it'll work. You need to make sure it's a run dry type for safety reasons.

On an OEM car the block is used. Atleast on the SR/RB anyway.

pr240sx
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You can use any type of pump, the most important thing is to avoid diaphragms pumps.Even a drill oil pump will work with a good size electric motor or from a small pulley.

Maybe the pump WD was referring to was a RV "macerator" type pump. They don't like too much heat and is designed primarily to pump water. They usually have a plastic impeller that could melt with the high temp.That's why I would suggest using a separate oiling circuit with a cooler. More complicated but I don't think that is harder than removing the oil pan and welding.

kapower06
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for the idea of a completely seperate oiling system for the turbo, would a radiator off an ATV work for a oil cooler? also what would be the best position for the pump, after/before turbo, after/before cooler? and would this system require a larger pump? thanks

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WDRacing
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After the turbo and before the cooler. Run the oil through a filter then the cooler then back to the motor for the best result.

pr240sx
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I would say-Pump-Turbo-Reservoir-Cooler-FilterThere is no pressure after the turbo. You need to collect the oil before pumping it back. Even if the reservoir is big enough, you may not need the cooler.Also, the right pump for this kind of job is a vane type (like power steering pump). I highly doubs that a impeller type pump creates pressure for the turbo. Impeller pumps are used for high flow rather than pressure.This is making a separate oiling circuit, not using the engine's oil pump

Bronze MFP
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Shouldn't the pump be after the turbo, since engine oil pressure gets oil to the turbo. All you need the pump for is to suck the used oil out and get it to the cooler or back to the engine (so it can seep back into the oil pan)The whole reason for the pump is to get oil away from the turbo in the first place instead of having gravity drain the oil back to a tapped oil pan.

sxseguy
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kapower06 wrote:earlier pr240 suggested a power steering pump... could anyone shed some light on this idea. As to if the pump would be alright with hot oil pumping threw it? or how to route the lines? thanks
That sounds promising. You could do a totally isolated oiling system, separate from the engine oiling system. That way you could change your turbo oil more frequently.

Power steering fluid runs pretty hot, so I don't think oil temperature would be a major issue, but you might want to put a small oil cooler on it and use an aluminum reservoir to keep it safe. I like the idea of a mechanical pump, too. Somebody should try this out.

kapower06
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I may be willing to sacrafice power steering. how had is the 240 to steer w/ o it. I drove my dads 82 3/4 ton suburban with out power steering for about 5 months, so im kinda used to it. also would a radiator off an ATV work for the resivor and the cooler? thanks

ILikeMy240sx
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I drove a S14 w/ SR w/o power steering and it was a very dramatic change from having one. It was more like an arm work out... If you have to drive around your town alot at slow speeds then Id recommend against it.


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