See if you can find a 4.36 diff (I think certain R32's had them).

Wakes up a stock KA car like no other.

Also, get your KA back in "as new" running order by doing ALL the maintenance - You'd be surprised how fun a perfectly-running stock KA can be.

http://www.240sxTech.com for more ideas.

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Quote, originally posted by AZhitman »

Also, get your KA back in "as new" running order by doing ALL the maintenance - You'd be surprised how fun a perfectly-running stock KA can be.

Thank you! thank you! thank you! All too often people complain about poor performance and write the KA off as crap when in reality it just hasn't been maintained or even had a tune up in God knows when.

I always remove all the non essentials(emissions, A/C, P/S), switch to a e-fan, make your own intake, extra unecessary weight( Do NOT confuse this with gutting your car haha).

Doesnt the KA already have more torque/weigh less than preludes anyway?

Depending on which motor he has, your's has just as much as his. but your's reaches peak torque sooner.

WTB: convertible with swap.

-Try getting altima fans and getting rid of that clutch fan. I think that gives 6whp and 4 wtq IIRC. Thats 30 dollars
-Use full synthetic Oil. Thats 30 dollars
-relocate your battery to the back and bend a pipe to where the battery is, that gives you low end torque also. Thats rougly 50 dollars
- get a 2.5" exhaust system. That depends on what you get lol

just my $0.02, thats what i had my S14 and it did me good

oh yea get a better clutch but dont get a lightweight flywheel. heavier flywheel = more torque

So, are you saying the fan takes about 7.5hp at the crank? While putting in e fans might tidy things up, they certainly do not free up any power. The fans freewheel when not needed and its a lightweight plastic fan. The ONLY reason for e fans is for space concerns, or when going with an aftermarket radiator to which the stock equipment isn't the best fit.

You definitely got it right with the flywheel thing tho, thats another trendy mod that generally has no benefit to a stock car. I'm considering a slightly lightened one but none of these ridiculous 8 lb flywheels plz. Save your money and get an aluminum or cf driveshaft if you wanna improve drivetrain efficiency!

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Do it yourself rebuild with stock parts will run you 1,000-1500 depending on what machine shop work you need.

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I disagree. I noticed a bigger improvement with a lightweight flywheel than with the aluminium driveshaft.
A heavier flywheel makes it easier to drive from a stop due to the added inertia, but when you get the car moving, less weight will help the engine spin faster and help the car accelerate more quickly. So there is an element of preference when deciding on a flywheel- do you want a car that is easier to drive, or able to accelerate more quickly? There's also the dynamics of where the weight is on the flywheel, etc. but that gets way more confusing. I've had my Fidanza for 7 years now and I love it.
I'm actually plotting to go back to the 2-piece driveshaft because I can't stand the extra noise from the one-piece. The slightly-less weight doesn't give enough performance to justify the noise to me.

damn spin..your allways hittin the nail dead on..what it has a target on it!..lol..ya spins got it man...the ka us verry under rated as far as a powerplant goes...it has gobs of torque low to mid ..but yours may be due for some temder lovin rebuild care..if thats the case...then you can make it super strong man..remeber..the ka24de was intended as a truck motor..for pulling..there is hidden power to be had..but not at high rpm...the stroke is to long unless you do big buck additions..good luck and let us know what ya decide.

http://www.myspace.com/liquid_cool_ka24de

Thanks for the feedback. I hear pros and cons about flywheels, but I think its safe to say that most people aren't really aware of what a lightened flywheel will do to the drivability of the car. AFAIK Fidanza's are well made and aren't too light. I was even maybe planning to get something a little closer to stock. It's hard to get objective feedback because when people spend $$$ on car parts they are all amped up. Thanks for the good input... something for me to consider.

When you're too broke to afford "real" mods you learn some pretty handy stuff over the years.

relocating the battery lets u use a short ram intake...or do a fmic...front mounted intercooler...there are lots of tricks that people can hand you sire....but you wont really learn that way..you need to do exhausted searches..look throu all idea's and info..then choose the best path and modifye that idea to suit you...good luck

Im quoting that from a magazine, Import Tuner i think. To me it makes sense, the crank doesnt have to spin that fan anymore so it doesnt spin as hard, so i would expect at least some kind of gain. Try riding a bike with a parachute, then try riding the bike again without it, it takes less power for you to move the bike right?

goto autozone and get a 45 degree pipe, a battery ground cable and a 100 amp fuse, a battery box from Walmart, and 15' of 4 gauge cable and some screws from Lowes.

Drill in the battery box in the back passanger side. Then you connect that 4 gauge cable to the positive cable and run it to the back. Cut off about 1 foot from the end of the cable and connect that 100 amp fuse to that and from the fuse to the battery. Then connect the negative cable to somewhere to the body of the car, i connected mine to where the spare battery goes. Turn your car on and pray everything works.

Good Luck

almost forgot, if you still have your stock intake box, goto ebay and get a MAF adaptor so you can attach a cone filter, thats like 15 dollars

As much as I like to read Import Tuner, SCC or Super Street once in awhile, recognize that they are out to make a buck. They plug parts like no other. Don't believe quoted numbers without dyno graphs showing WHERE and HOW MUCH power was made (even then be skeptical.)

Now, the fan only comes into play at idle, because at speed the wind is more air flow than any fan can provide. The rest of the time, the fan clutch is not engaged and the fan freewheels. In your example, this is like riding a bike with a parachute... neatly folded up inside its bag still.

Suppose you did get a small gain of about 1-2hp. The electric fan that you are now using draws power, and that power must be produced by the alternator. The alternator is driven by guess what... a pulley attached to the engine.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

I only get set straight about this a few months ago. Before then, I was gonna throw in some DSM fans my buddy had as spares but never had the time.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...41786

The pipe thing was right on though. With the battery out of the way, you can stick a K&N style filter right where the battery was.

should look something like this. You can have it go lower but i choose to put it like that becuase i dont want to suck in water,

relocating gets better wieght distribution and colder air is denser,

allso....is a (racer) its good to know how to fix these mods out on the treet if god forbid you breakdown in bumf-u-ck'd egypt...one thing most "for lack of a better word" wana be racers neglegt..is how to fix there platform....i wish you good luck sire..you can find S/A books in the automotive section of barns and noble or anyother bookstore out there..

http://www.myspace.com/liquid_cool_ka24de

Lightened flywheel is always good.
Remove the AC if you don't use it.(also enhances cooling by getting the condenser out of the way)
etc.
The lower the weight of the drivetrain the better the response you will get by increasing the efficiency of the drivetrain, lowering the weight of the car will increase your power to weight ratio, and finally increasing horsepower (short ram, turbo, whatever) will also (obviously) increase your power to weight ratio.

Engine stuff for sale -> http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=368806
MSD coils, S13 cam, Intake stuff, stainless braid oil lines + more!

As others have suggested though, I recommend you do some reading before you attempt any modifications. Fix up some stuff, your money will be much better spent. Distributor cap, rotors, plugs (plain copper are fine, NGK BKR5E I believe, but you can spend the money for iridium if you really want), NGK plug wires, 300ZX fuel filter, air filter replacement (or an ebay intake will work well), pcv valve replacement, oil change, transmission oil change (or auto trans service), set ignition timing, fix chain timing chain rattle, clean/improve engine grounding, bleed clutch and brake fluid, eliminate clutch dampener..... all those are great places to start and are possible with just a screwdriver, a 10mm line wrench and a socket wrench w/ 10, 12 and 14mm sockets. Grab the FSM, keep reading and get wrenching.

If you want more low end, save your cash on minor ka mods and swap a LSx into your 240 and be happy. Your just never going to be happy with a Ka's low end if you want big Tq.

Or you can go with a 1500 dollar turbo setup thats pretty popular now adays, and have huge gains between 2500-6000 rpms.

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Quote, originally posted by 480sx »

Hype, removing your fan and replacing it with an E-Fan frees up enough power to where you feel it instantly. That means it gives you between 5-10 hp. This is just a proven fact dude.

Alright, I know when I'm beat. I guess I was wrong. The thermostatic thing makes sense - its not an on or off affair. Thanks for clearing that up. I still doubt 5-10hp, but I have some efans lying around, maybe i'll throw em on and see for myself.

HA I KNEW IT lol, and i was starting to doubt myself lol

Quote, originally posted by costa_rican13 »

ok thanks again ppl. well i'll probably take the fan out then, and find an e fan to put in. but does anyone know where i can get a decent 5 speed ka-de dohc ECU. cause my 240 keeps shutting off while i'm coasting cause it still thinks its an auto, and is confused about the rev limit it will need to not die when i stop at the light or somewhere.

just adjust your idle, i had that problem too when i installed my fans

Quote, originally posted by Hype »

Yeah I'm definitely not infallible, but I generally only open my mouth if I know what i'm talking about. When I'm wrong, I admit it. Give my misunderstanding of the clutch mechanism, it makes sense that it gives some power, but i still doubt 7-10whp If you can find fans cheap enough and wire them up well, sounds like a worthwhile mod.

i checked with another guy who took that off his s14. said he got 6whp from just that. i dunno how much power that it actually gives but its still something

but hey at least you admit when your wrong, most people would keep going and going lol

http://www.s-chassis.com/forum...30440