Krypt

You might have jumped the gun in the assumption it was just a gasket problem..

DTM & JDM

Still plays with cars...

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Build Thread: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=327738
DIY Hatch Repair: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...id=44

have you put a timing light on the car? did you check the spark plug order? i forgot in the other thread, but if you get the cam timing off by half a tooth when you try and put the distributor to 20 degrees btdc you wont be able to get it there.... you can get it close, but it will be no cigar.

but if its cranking around that easily now, chances are you bent valves, so check clearances ASAP

http://www.myspace.com/loganakazeus
Build Thread: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=327738
DIY Hatch Repair: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...id=44

http://www.myspace.com/loganakazeus
Build Thread: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=327738
DIY Hatch Repair: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...id=44

like i explained to you in the other thread, to fix this you have to rotate the idler sprocket either forward or backward one tooth or the big part of the gear, not the small part.

Alright, I could be a half a tooth off, and to fix it I would just take out the upper front cover and move it forward or backward respectively?

it should be higher than 160, because i've run into this problem myself twice now, and its always been higher than 175. your motor might be on its way out, but check again once you get the cams in time

pull the fuel pump fuse out adn crank it til it runs. then let it die, replace it, and then crank it up

then see what you can get the ignition timing to. it should be 20btdc with the bolt in the center of the slot. and report back

are you CERTAIN that the plug wires are in the correct spots?

when you're putting the dizzy in i think you did it right. once it seats, it should be pointed directly at the number one cyl post.

either way, the problem is not in your IACV. you NEED TO GET THE TIMING RIGHT. this si timing problem. either your cams are off, or your ignition timing is off (im guessing both) but you need to get it right.

so what exactly did you do today? you've been so vague is really hard to help you, i have to do all kinds of guess work and jsut throw things at you that i've run into or tried.

basically what im hearing from you, is that today you took the front cover off, completely removed the idler sprocket from the engine, moved it either one tooth forward or one tooth back on the lower chain from where it previously sat, and then retimed the cams accordingly?

Grrr.
Krypt

P.S. And thank you for your help. I am kinda just sitting around looking forward to your posts. :-P

Modified by TheKryptKeeper at 3:33 AM 5/15/2008

FTL.

Krypt

P.S. If you are pretty handy with plastic, it's not really a problem. If you are horrible with plastic, don't try it.

when the cams are off the car will still idle and rev fine, you really shouldnt notice a difference other than power delivery. you've got a problem somewhere else.

also having an unresponsive IACV isnt all that uncommon when its really dirty, mine does the same thing, except i dont bother because it's idling fine at 800

so move the idler sprocket one tooth in the same direction you moved it before if you cant get the dizzy to 20btdc with the bolt in the middle of the slot

and how are you going to hit a piston if you are reinstalling the cams to the correct position each time? you are either gonna be 8 degrees off, or spot on

Krypt

the reason we are moving the idler sprocket around is to get the cam timing absolutely correct. the distributor is just a diagnostic technique i've discovered. when you're cams are off, you wont be able to get the dizzy right. its the only thing i can think of short of asking you to take and post pictures of the cams at TDC.

how can i tell? the exhaust cam lobe is pointing too high. believe it or not, but its very easy for me to see those 8 degrees