It was f-ing running! WTF?!?

[TheKryptKeeper]

Alright, I took out the heater box thingy and filled it with water and it was leaking out, so I guess it's busted. Also, after it was filled, I pured it out and it was light brown. So I guess I'll flush the radiator too. Maybe I should just get a new dash too.

P.S. If you are pretty handy with plastic, it's not really a problem. If you are horrible with plastic, don't try it.

[DjPantsSpecR]

if you're dead on at 18dbtdc with the dizzy all the way to the right, the cams are off again. they must have been right before

when the cams are off the car will still idle and rev fine, you really shouldnt notice a difference other than power delivery. you've got a problem somewhere else.

also having an unresponsive IACV isnt all that uncommon when its really dirty, mine does the same thing, except i dont bother because it's idling fine at 800

so move the idler sprocket one tooth in the same direction you moved it before if you cant get the dizzy to 20btdc with the bolt in the middle of the slot

[TheKryptKeeper]

Alright, and I cleaned the IACV maybe a month before the head blew, btw. So I am getting increasingly worried about moving the cam far enough to cause it to hit the piston. Also, isn't moving the chain two teeth around the big part of the idler sprocket the same as moving the "dizzy" one tooth over? Cause I couldn't get it to work like that either. I don't want to get back in there if that isn't what it is. The distributer is turned all the way counter-clockwise to get 18 degrees at about 1100 rpm. Cause I can't get it to idle to actually check the timing correctly.

[DjPantsSpecR]

moving the dizzy and moving the idler sprocket are two non mutually exclusive events. think it terms of degrees.

and how are you going to hit a piston if you are reinstalling the cams to the correct position each time? you are either gonna be 8 degrees off, or spot on

[TheKryptKeeper]

Doesn't moving the big sprocket one tooth make the smaller gear of the idler sprocket move half a tooth? Isn't that the whole reason that we are doing this? So the distributer lines up better? It feels like there is something that I'm not understanding. I'm not questioning you, but I worry that I'm going to screw something up somehow. And I am very greatfull that you are helping me so much. I'm going to go install my new heater core, then work on the idler gear now. Thanks!

Krypt

[DjPantsSpecR]

its like i cant stop helping you because its bugging the **** outta me, i gotta know!

the reason we are moving the idler sprocket around is to get the cam timing absolutely correct. the distributor is just a diagnostic technique i've discovered. when you're cams are off, you wont be able to get the dizzy right. its the only thing i can think of short of asking you to take and post pictures of the cams at TDC.

[TheKryptKeeper]

You want pictures? Done!

[TheKryptKeeper]

Keep in mind, this is AFTER i adjusted the big idler sprocket one tooth over. When I set up the cams the first time, the clearances between the cam lobe and the valve covers was nearly identical between intake and exhaust cam.

[DjPantsSpecR]

yeah, from those pictures alone i can tell its half a tooth off. so its one tooth at the idler sprocket, it looks like you were right the first time.

how can i tell? the exhaust cam lobe is pointing too high. believe it or not, but its very easy for me to see those 8 degrees

[TheKryptKeeper]

half a tooth, which way?

[DjPantsSpecR]

it doesnt matter.

[TheKryptKeeper]

I'm really hesitant to believe that it was set correctly before. I can get it electronically timed closer the way that it is now, then the way it was. The way it was, the closest I could get it was 10 degrees off on either side. I mean... It would either be 10 degrees before TDC or 30 degrees before TDC. Ugh this is stressful. But thank you so much for not giving up on me.

[DjPantsSpecR]

that doesnt make sense that it was either 10 or 30 degrees btdc. that sounds like all the way one way was 10 and all the way the other way was 30, and in that case wouldnt 20 be in the middle?

also in that picture, if you're certain that the mark on the crank pully is at 0 degrees, then yeah, that seriously looks to be half aa tooth off

[TheKryptKeeper]

I sent you an email

[TheKryptKeeper]

No, it was either 5 degree AFTER TDC to 10 degrees before TDC or 30 degrees BTDC to like 50 BTDC It would skip the mark.