What did you do to your Pathfinder / QX4 today?

[zach7685]

While At the junkyard yesterday i found a lot of useful parts i originally went for a coil pack i have three plus two rear headrests (ones on now aren't the right colour). I passed a Wrecked 2011 ford fusion and looked inside and jacked its Ambiance lighting kit

<img

Temporary till I find a good location for the switch
[URL=http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/zach7 ... f.jpg.html][/URL]

[PathyProject]

Installed HID lights and LED's for the license plate lights. Tomorrow I'm gonna replace my distributor cap and rotor. I replaced my plugs and wires not too long ago and didn't get the cap and rotor, but I'll take care of this problem tomorrow.

[PathyProject]

First off, lemme say that I did not do most of this today, this happened over the past week... got my snorkel head and installed (too big for my application)

Installed Bash Plate:





OME Lift + NX4 strut spacers and 1" rear spring perch spacers:





Before:



After:



Went wheelin':

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkjYfC7MpNE[/youtube]



Washed him today:





Oh, yah...started installing roof rack lights...

If you don't mind me asking, what size are those rims? Also how much did they cost?

[Towncivilian]

I had to replace my battery the other day. Got an Autocraft Gold 810CCA Group 27 for $74 after $40 off $110 discount code and after I got the $15 core charge back. Cranks like lightning now. The original size is Group 24. Group 27 fits okay height wise, but it is longer than the stock battery tray. I just left it there, anyway. The area below my battery tray is getting a little rusty, probably from typical battery corrosion and water collecting and sitting there. I wiped it off with some Simple Green and some more paint flaked off, but it's not too bad.

[overwest]

Had a squealing noise coming from my engine bay, way to look it up after I fixed it me. Well. Got a new water pump, new belts. The idler belt was really chewed up and missing a good chunk of it, which was lodged under a tensioner. Any ideas as to why that would be? Gonna check it tomorrow to see if the squeal is gone or if it's really the bearings on the idler.

[kingadrock]

So I Plasti-dipped my wheels today. I think it's an improvement. We'll see how it holds up.



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[Chuck Tribolet]

I changed the oil yesterday morning (225,000 miles) but, DUH, forgot to tighten the belts while I had the cardboard skid pan off. I've been getting an occasional ten seconds of belt squeal on a cold morning startup. On the other hand, I'm not likely to see a cold morning until November.

Chuck

[Chuck Tribolet]

Had a squealing noise coming from my engine bay, way to look it up after I fixed it me. Well. Got a new water pump, new belts. The idler belt was really chewed up and missing a good chunk of it, which was lodged under a tensioner. Any ideas as to why that would be? Gonna check it tomorrow to see if the squeal is gone or if it's really the bearings on the idler.

What's the pattern on the squeal? If it's a few seconds on a cold startup, that's probably tension.

And how many miles on the belt?

Chuck

[overwest]

Had a squealing noise coming from my engine bay, way to look it up after I fixed it me. Well. Got a new water pump, new belts. The idler belt was really chewed up and missing a good chunk of it, which was lodged under a tensioner. Any ideas as to why that would be? Gonna check it tomorrow to see if the squeal is gone or if it's really the bearings on the idler.

What's the pattern on the squeal? If it's a few seconds on a cold startup, that's probably tension.

And how many miles on the belt?

Chuck

Fresh belts. The squeal is usually on cold startup like you said, so I'll go with that. It seems to go away after a few starts/few minutes of idling.

[zach7685]

So I Plasti-dipped my wheels today. I think it's an improvement. We'll see how it holds up.



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Oh wow

[Chuck Tribolet]

What's the pattern on the squeal? If it's a few seconds on a cold startup, that's probably tension.

And how many miles on the belt?

Chuck

Fresh belts. The squeal is usually on cold startup like you said, so I'll go with that. It seems to go away after a few starts/few minutes of idling.[/quote]

Tighten the belts. The need to be tighter than you think.

Chuck

[Bluewulf73]

If you don't mind me asking, what size are those rims? Also how much did they cost?

They are American Racing...sumn or other. 15X7 with 3.75 Backspacing They are old and cost me $150.00 for the set of four.

[D13_R50]

Meshed the lower vents on the front bumper, turned out pretty decent. I'll try to get a pic of it up later.

Here's the finished product

[overwest]

^ that looks dope! I may have to be a copycat on that one :P What'd you use?

[nico911411]

Finally got a Magnefine Filter installed on the transmission cooler return line and 3 new quarts of mobil syn at dextron 3 refilled!!! Hopefully No Leak

[Towncivilian]

Looks good, nice place for the install.

[patqx4]

Changed my brake fluid yesterday and omg was it black and gross!

I definitely wont be neglecting that service in the future! Took out about 1.5 liters of the black stuff and purged all air from the lines. Next up, Engine coolant.

[nico911411]

Is this a good location for the Power Steering Magnefine filter? Should I worry about the Heat from the Exhaust Manifold??

There's also a possible second location for PS filter which is far away the PS Reservoir. Don't know if installation of the filter here puts some strain on the original hose since I don't want to cut off few inches of the hose.

[Towncivilian]

Looks fine. I wouldn't worry about heat or stress on the hose as long as you've clamped it well. Do check for slight weeps as I've read reports of some Magnefines weeping around where the filter housing screws in to the other end.

Today I had a rear brake service (clean, lubricate, adjust) done at Nissan for $40. I also had them adjust the brake pedal free play since there was a noticeable amount, and adjust the parking brake. Now the play I noticed is nearly eliminated (invoice says the tech adjusted what little play there was at the MC input shaft) and the parking brake goes up 4 to 5 clicks as it should. Those two adjustments costed me $90 (hour's worth of labor, I guess). The brake pedal has less travel, feels more firm, and braking is more even and powerful. I had a $25 coupon that expired today so I figured I might as well use it. I'll probably get a rear brake service yearly or so, the $40 cost isn't bad and there's been a noticeable improvement the two times I've had the service done. My rear brake components have about 50% life left as said on the invoice, not bad for OEM components with 141.5k miles on them.

[Buzzman]

My rear brake components have about 50% life left as said on the invoice, not bad for OEM components with 141.5k miles on them.

Ya, it makes me wonder sometimes why guys insist on wanting to change them out for rear discs.
My '02 Pathy has 275,000 Kms. on it (about 170,000 miles, I think), and I'm still running on the original rear brakes. Haven't looked at them or serviced them in years either.
Hand brake still does the four click thing, and it will hold the truck on a hill with no problem.

In contrast to that, I just replaced a seized rear caliper on my '06 Altima (along with the rotors and pads of course).
Did that 2 days ago in the driveway. The hardware was was rusted on there solid too. Had a helluva time getting the old stuff off.
It has 135,000 kms on it (about 82,000 miles??).
This is the third set of rear brakes on this car. Not impressed.

[Towncivilian]

You're right that drums seem to last forever, even with no maintenance to speak of (though it certainly doesn't hurt, moreso in road salt areas... a little lube and fresh brake fluid go a long way). I've read of some members here replacing rear brake components and wonder what exactly they gain, or why they felt the components were too worn for further service, though I suppose it's possible for something to go wrong and toast some components. If I had to replace any of the rear brake components, I would definitely shell out for OEM parts since they clearly do the job very well and last forever.

Rusted or seized brake calipers or wheel cylinders is less of an issue here in Florida I think. I think my parents' '07 Altima has had a rear brake overhaul at around 80k miles or so, but I don't know how things were holding up since my brother was the primary driver of that vehicle up until then. With just over 100k miles on that Altima I was thinking of having Nissan do a complete CVT fluid exchange for good measure and before the 10yr/120k mile extended CVT warranty expires, but that is very expensive and the car doesn't get much use anymore. Bet that'll be expensive as hell for the G37 too, if only it had a proper dipstick it would be really easy to do. But I digress at this point.

[Buzzman]

I'd love to be able to work on a car that doesn't see snow and salt.
Up here, the winter weather destroys the under carriage of our vehicles, making it very difficult to replace anything under there.
Every nut and bolt is rusted and seized after a few years of winter driving.
Doesn't matter what it is. Brakes, exhaust, suspension, fuel filter, whatever.
I oil spray my truck every year under there, but it only slows down the rusting process. It doesn't stop it completely.
Another example: I put winter tires (on steel rims) on my vehicles, and I have to grease the back of the rims where it meets up with the hubs.
If I don't, then I have a helluva time removing the wheels in the spring. They rust and bond to the hub, making it almost impossible to get them off.

With the rear caliper on my Altima, I couldn't get the slider pins loosened up or out. They were rusted in place.
Fortunately, the new caliper came with a new mounting bracket and slider pins.
If I had just been trying to replace the pads, I would not have been able to just take the pins out and back off the caliper.
That's how bad it gets up here. It sucks big time.

[ADA]

Have done deserting and change front left bearings
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/12kgmqv78wrt849/NeH1QA1I5E

[hotdawwgman]

Finally got around to doing the timing belt on my Pathy. The car has 167,000 miles on it. I bought it dirt cheap back in January with 160,000. I was under the impression that it was done before I bought the car but I went ahead and did it. It sure needed it. The cam seals and crank seals were leaking hella bad. Water pump was done too leaking like there was no tomorrow. well I am glad i got it all done!

[Densetsu]

Replaced the bank 2 upstream O2 sensor. I had a P0174 code that appeared in January, which didn't do any hard except kill my fuel economy. Cleaning the MAF did nothing, a new MAF did nothing, and I couldn't find a vacuum leak. Finally decided to replace the O2 sensor and within a couple drives, the bank 2 long-term fuel trim went from 13% back to 1%.

I have the bank 1 sensor as well, but time was tight and decided to skip it for now. At 190,000km it's probably time to change it, but for the time being there's nothing wrong with it.

[BoostMyQX4]

Replaced Bose head unit, the volume button was just getting worst it will work 40% of the time so i replaced with a single din Pioneer which works awesome with my iphone.

[Jsinn]

Yesterday I started to replace my front sway bar links. Didnt start till 6pm thinking I had plenty of time. I got the first nut off, but the second one is going nowhere. So I had to run to the local autopart place and buy a hacksaw. Finally cut the thing off by the time it was dark. Had to call it a day. I still have to get the bolt (from the cut link) out of the hole. Im hoping I wont have to drill it out, anyone have suggestions?? This weekend I have new shocks to put on and rear sway bar links too.

[donald]

drained and re-filled ATF, part 2/4
Also drained and re-filled front and rear differentials.

... man, I'm a little surprised at how tight the differential drain/fill plugs were. Last person to touch was my mechanic
Makes me start to doubt how well he/his team is working.

IIRC - the drain/fill plugs are supposed to be somewhere around 20-25ft-lbs, about the same as the oil-drain plug.
Removing the diff drain/fill plugs required a bit of work

[Densetsu]

Pathy differential drain/fill plugs are notorious for seizing on this forum. There's tons of threads with people having to use torches to loosen them. One guy even stripped his so bad he had to weld an extension on to remove it. If you were like me and could remove them with only a breaker bar, you're one of the lucky ones.

[BoostMyQX4]

Taking our QX for its annual physical today "Inspection/Emissions"