The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[speakeasy]

Wasn't sure if I should make my own thread for this, but I didn't wanna piss people off so I posted here.

Proud new owner of an RB20 swapped '91 240SX. It needs some work but it's good mechanically, little to no rust. Problem is, while it is in driving condition, it's missing some of the comforts I'd like to have in a daily driver. Namely, a non-racing seat with regular seatbelts (the guy who owned it before me was like a foot taller than me and it's really hard to push the clutch in all the way with this seat), a spare tire (right now there are 18" rims on there with the 5 lug conversion installed) the thing that sprays windshield washing fluid (and I suppose the fluid bottle and all associated lines and parts for it), and air conditioning.

The seat and spare tire I suppose should be simple enough, would appreciate if anyone knew places other than ebay or craiglist to find these things. I'd prefer to find a stock S13 cloth seat, but I plan on redoing the whole interior anyway so if anyone has suggestions I'm open to hearing them, I heard the S14 seats fit as well, but do they work with the automatic seat belt? The other two I bet are much more complicated. I did find a few threads on airconditioning and have been reading through them, though it seems that a bunch of the links and diagrams that people posted are dead by now:

post1307572.html#p1307572
post966832.html#p966832
rb-a-c-t210269.html

Also, it seems that most of the people in those threads already have the air conditioning system in place but just want to get it to work with the RB20/25, but in my situation, the equipment had been removed so I need to know what I have to put back into the car for it to work. What would be the best way to go about getting A/C for someone that doesn't have anything installed to begin with?

As for the windshield wiper fluid stuff, I have no clue where to begin with that, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[edit]found a guy with an S14 that has parts for the A/C, problem is, will I be able to get it to work in my S13 and RB20?

[misodeadly]

I'm new & am wondering if anyone is selling ecu part number A11 B44 G70 ? I tried my luck at the junkyard and nadas. Thanks.

[sunhawk]

looking for an atlanta area dyno where i can just drive up and purchase a few runs to get my 240sx's numbers

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm new & am wondering if anyone is selling ecu part number A11 B44 G70 ? I tried my luck at the junkyard and nadas. Thanks.

Not sure what that ECU is but you could try Courtesyparts.com

[PapaSmurf2k3]

looking for an atlanta area dyno where i can just drive up and purchase a few runs to get my 240sx's numbers

You'd be better off posting that question in 240 gen, where there's a lot more traffic than just in this thread. Or maybe try a google search.
http://www.dynolab.net/site/index.php
^That was the #1 result when I searched "Dyno Atlanta"

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Wasn't sure if I should make my own thread for this, but I didn't wanna piss people off so I posted here.

Proud new owner of an RB20 swapped '91 240SX. It needs some work but it's good mechanically, little to no rust. Problem is, while it is in driving condition, it's missing some of the comforts I'd like to have in a daily driver. Namely, a non-racing seat with regular seatbelts (the guy who owned it before me was like a foot taller than me and it's really hard to push the clutch in all the way with this seat), a spare tire (right now there are 18" rims on there with the 5 lug conversion installed) the thing that sprays windshield washing fluid (and I suppose the fluid bottle and all associated lines and parts for it), and air conditioning.

The seat and spare tire I suppose should be simple enough, would appreciate if anyone knew places other than ebay or craiglist to find these things. I'd prefer to find a stock S13 cloth seat, but I plan on redoing the whole interior anyway so if anyone has suggestions I'm open to hearing them, I heard the S14 seats fit as well, but do they work with the automatic seat belt? The other two I bet are much more complicated. I did find a few threads on airconditioning and have been reading through them, though it seems that a bunch of the links and diagrams that people posted are dead by now:

post1307572.html#p1307572
post966832.html#p966832
rb-a-c-t210269.html

Also, it seems that most of the people in those threads already have the air conditioning system in place but just want to get it to work with the RB20/25, but in my situation, the equipment had been removed so I need to know what I have to put back into the car for it to work. What would be the best way to go about getting A/C for someone that doesn't have anything installed to begin with?

As for the windshield wiper fluid stuff, I have no clue where to begin with that, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[edit]found a guy with an S14 that has parts for the A/C, problem is, will I be able to get it to work in my S13 and RB20?

S14 seats bolt right in and work fine with automatic seat belts. I'm not sure about any of your other problems. I'm definitely NOT an RB guy.

[speakeasy]

Wasn't sure if I should make my own thread for this, but I didn't wanna piss people off so I posted here.

Proud new owner of an RB20 swapped '91 240SX. It needs some work but it's good mechanically, little to no rust. Problem is, while it is in driving condition, it's missing some of the comforts I'd like to have in a daily driver. Namely, a non-racing seat with regular seatbelts (the guy who owned it before me was like a foot taller than me and it's really hard to push the clutch in all the way with this seat), a spare tire (right now there are 18" rims on there with the 5 lug conversion installed) the thing that sprays windshield washing fluid (and I suppose the fluid bottle and all associated lines and parts for it), and air conditioning.

The seat and spare tire I suppose should be simple enough, would appreciate if anyone knew places other than ebay or craiglist to find these things. I'd prefer to find a stock S13 cloth seat, but I plan on redoing the whole interior anyway so if anyone has suggestions I'm open to hearing them, I heard the S14 seats fit as well, but do they work with the automatic seat belt? The other two I bet are much more complicated. I did find a few threads on airconditioning and have been reading through them, though it seems that a bunch of the links and diagrams that people posted are dead by now:

post1307572.html#p1307572
post966832.html#p966832
rb-a-c-t210269.html

Also, it seems that most of the people in those threads already have the air conditioning system in place but just want to get it to work with the RB20/25, but in my situation, the equipment had been removed so I need to know what I have to put back into the car for it to work. What would be the best way to go about getting A/C for someone that doesn't have anything installed to begin with?

As for the windshield wiper fluid stuff, I have no clue where to begin with that, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[edit]found a guy with an S14 that has parts for the A/C, problem is, will I be able to get it to work in my S13 and RB20?

S14 seats bolt right in and work fine with automatic seat belts. I'm not sure about any of your other problems. I'm definitely NOT an RB guy.

Thanks, appreciate the help. I'll keep doing research on the other stuff.

[shutuprandy365]

im looking for a 240sx water pump housing from '91 up for the KA24DE motor, have had no luck so far.. building a KA powered altima and changing some things and need this to fit my underdrive pulleys i have. any help would be appreciated as i have had nothing but negative responses so far..

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Any auto parts store should be able to sell you a complete water pump assembly.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/21010-wate ... Path=1418&

[KABO5e]

I've just got three more things and then I should be good to go. The first is the PAIRC valve. The FSM says that the thing plugs into the exhaust manifold. I just don't know how or where. It seems like a bad idea to plug a rubber hose into something that'll get that hot.

The second is with the PAIRC's solenoid. I've got the two vacuum lines but I don't know which one goes where on the solenoid.

The final thing has to do with the air pipe that goes from the air filter to the MAF. I have one air hose nipple thing left without anything in it. It is right before the pipe goes into the MAF and goes straight down.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You can remove and discard anything and everything associated with the PAIR valve. It isn't necessary.

Is the hole in your pipe before or after the air filter? It almost sounds like its between the filter and the MAF... in which case you can just plug it.

[KABO5e]

So I plug the one coming towards the camera?http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/r523/KABO5e/?action=view&current=alt011107.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr523%2FKABO5e%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DIMAG0192.jpg

[Toxsyl]

I plan to do my brakes soon, and I'm curious if I should just upgrade them while I'm at it. My current front brakes are J30 and stock in the rear.
Which is cheapest? Which is easiest to install? Which brakes the best?
J30, 300ZX, or Skyline?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So I plug the one coming towards the camera?http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/r523/KABO5e/?action=view&current=alt011107.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr523%2FKABO5e%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DIMAG0192.jpg

Yup. I want to say that went to an intake resonator.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I plan to do my brakes soon, and I'm curious if I should just upgrade them while I'm at it. My current front brakes are J30 and stock in the rear.
Which is cheapest? Which is easiest to install? Which brakes the best?
J30, 300ZX, or Skyline?

Do you ever experience brake fade? What makes you want to upgrade?

[Toxsyl]

Do you ever experience brake fade? What makes you want to upgrade?

MY front brakes are J30 and stock in the rear. I want to upgrade them further, but for now is there no difference for the rotors and brakes on j30s?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm not really sure. I never messed with my rear brakes. E-brake cables tend to be a pain to retrofit. I would assume the J30 has a different rear brake caliper/rotor, but it may not. You could try just cross referencing part numbers and see what comes back.

[Toxsyl]

I worded that wrong. Is there any differences between the years of the j30s in their brakes.

[mechanicalmoron]

So I plug the one coming towards the camera?http://s1170.photobucket.com/albums/r523/KABO5e/?action=view&current=alt011107.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr523%2FKABO5e%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DIMAG0192.jpg

Yup. I want to say that went to an intake resonator.

Yes.

If you're using the same intake pipe, and you have the resonator bottle thing, the way I plugged that was by using tin snips to cut a part out of the bottle with the right curve, using sandpaper to rough it all up on both pieces, and JB welding it over the hole on the pipe.


What all do I need to take out to replace CV axles? Can they be done from the back, or am I not understanding something properly? what would the hours be if a shop was to do it, and if I was to, would I need an impact gun?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I worded that wrong. Is there any differences between the years of the j30s in their brakes.

aside from a different brake pad material from the factory, I'm not aware of any changes.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What all do I need to take out to replace CV axles? Can they be done from the back, or am I not understanding something properly? what would the hours be if a shop was to do it, and if I was to, would I need an impact gun?

"done from the back"?
An impact gun would definitely be helpful for the axle nut. I've never changed them in a 240, but you'd need to unbolt the half shaft from the differential side, remove the axle nut from the hub, and then probably unbolt the rear strut/spring so you can swing the knuckle up and down to get the axle out... but you might not have to (I'd cross that bridge when I got there).

Probably looking at about 2 hours for one side, 3 hours total for both.

[Toxsyl]

aside from a different brake pad material from the factory, I'm not aware of any changes.

Thanks,

What are all the parts I need to use for an all around 300zx brake sawp on my 98 240sx with stainless steel lines?

Also what is the very most I need to pay?

[mechanicalmoron]

What all do I need to take out to replace CV axles? Can they be done from the back, or am I not understanding something properly? what would the hours be if a shop was to do it, and if I was to, would I need an impact gun?

"done from the back"?
An impact gun would definitely be helpful for the axle nut. I've never changed them in a 240, but you'd need to unbolt the half shaft from the differential side, remove the axle nut from the hub, and then probably unbolt the rear strut/spring so you can swing the knuckle up and down to get the axle out... but you might not have to (I'd cross that bridge when I got there).

Probably looking at about 2 hours for one side, 3 hours total for both.

Thank you.

Yeah, by from the back, I was asking if it was bolted to the back of the hub, or if I'd have to take the big nut (the one everyone complains about needing an impact for) off the front (outside) of the hub.

Either way, I'm at least going to have to find someone to help, given my relative stupidity and fear of doing something dangerous in this sort of job.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

aside from a different brake pad material from the factory, I'm not aware of any changes.

Thanks,

What are all the parts I need to use for an all around 300zx brake sawp on my 98 240sx with stainless steel lines?

Also what is the very most I need to pay?

for the front:
Calipers, pads, conversion lines (I doubt your stainless lines will work), rotors (possibly re-drilled to fit 4 lug pattern if your vehicle is 4 lug). Other than that, you just have to cut your dust shields.

Rear: calipers, pads, rotors, some sort of E-brake wizardry (dunno, I've never done the rears).

Make sure you put the calipers on the correct way. THE BLEEDER SCREW MUST BE ON THE TOP OF THE CALIPER when you mount them.

You can pick up a used set of everything for about $200. Check our classifieds.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah, by from the back, I was asking if it was bolted to the back of the hub, or if I'd have to take the big nut (the one everyone complains about needing an impact for) off the front (outside) of the hub.

Either way, I'm at least going to have to find someone to help, given my relative stupidity and fear of doing something dangerous in this sort of job.

Yeah, you have to remove the big nut. Go to harbor freight and get one of their electric impact guns for like $50. Thank me later.
It's really not very dangerous either... are your axles blown or something? 240 axles take one hell of a beating.

[mechanicalmoron]

Yeah, by from the back, I was asking if it was bolted to the back of the hub, or if I'd have to take the big nut (the one everyone complains about needing an impact for) off the front (outside) of the hub.

Either way, I'm at least going to have to find someone to help, given my relative stupidity and fear of doing something dangerous in this sort of job.

Yeah, you have to remove the big nut. Go to harbor freight and get one of their electric impact guns for like $50. Thank me later.
It's really not very dangerous either... are your axles blown or something? 240 axles take one hell of a beating.

I THINK it's them.

when turning and accelerating I get horrible thumping. It's gotten worse over the last year and 7k miles. The other day I tried to drive up a steep dirt road, and where the grade got steep when the clutch was half out it was just banging loudly and shuddering hard, and not moving, couldn't get the car up it and was afraid I'd break something, I had to back down.

It's to the point that I can't pull out into a turn with high throttle in firs gear, much less do a donought. Dounoughts on dirt, even.

So.... I THINK that's a really bad CV joint? They're the originals, I'm sure. No torn boots that I saw or anything, just..... horrible thumping and siezing. I think it was you or outtowinpahc that originally pointed me in that direction, when I complained and compared it to taking artillary fire. The same, but at lower speed and in such a way that it messes with my driving-and I do highway driving, I'm afraid of what could happen at high speed.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Really the only thing that can go wrong with them is if the boot tears, they lose the grease and then they click sometimes... or you can strip out the splines, but like I said, that's pretty rare.

You can try putting your E-brake on and trying to drive (slipping the clutch) and have someone look around/under your car to see if anything is amiss.

[mechanicalmoron]

Really the only thing that can go wrong with them is if the boot tears, they lose the grease and then they click sometimes... or you can strip out the splines, but like I said, that's pretty rare.

You can try putting your E-brake on and trying to drive (slipping the clutch) and have someone look around/under your car to see if anything is amiss.

Are you saying if I slip the clutch with the brake on, that if there's a problem with one it should be turning one one end, or something? I do have an open diff, so if one was just not transmitting power the car wouldn't go at all, and there's no slip or anything, just a siezing from the rear end on tight corners, hard acceleration, rough surfaces, or a combination of those.

I think the brake holds the car quite well against the motor, though I haven't tried as of late. A few thousand miles ago I though I'd just parked in gear and tried to start with the brake on, and it stalled right away without moving the car at all.

If it's not a CV joint, what could make that sort of noise and problem? I was thinking severely damaged and worn splines that are siezing when they get too much power in a situation where the diff doesn't transfer it. There's no recent grease splatter and no tear, but the underbody is filthy, there could be a tiny hole or a leak around an end that's slowly bled it dry over the last 20 years.

Couldn't be a diff problem, could it? It's got the right amount of clean oil as of a year ago, and the gears where worn but not chipped or broken, worn in an even way and not too much.

[shutuprandy365]

Any auto parts store should be able to sell you a complete water pump assembly.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/21010-wate ... Path=1418&

again if it were that simple i wouldnt have asked...

[mechanicalmoron]

Any auto parts store should be able to sell you a complete water pump assembly.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/21010-wate ... Path=1418&

again if it were that simple i wouldnt have asked...

What's wrong with the whole pump? If you REALLY want to use old fins on a new housing, you could even do that..... though it would be dumb.