Ok so my motor has low compression across the board (125)

[300ZXttZMAN]

300zxttzman, were your compression numbers taken on a hot, warm or cold engine?

Hard to say i didnt actually do it my self the shop did it (not a shade tree shop)
i would guess it was warm

[300ZXttZMAN]

yea i know but i have my own money also that will take care of labor my dad is willing to loan me 6k for what ever i may need to complete this stage of the build

quote from my dad: "I want to see that beautiful car run"

gotta love dads

i love parents too.

but in parts alone, 2k (rebuild kit), new fuel injectors (1,400), 120k pack (i can't believe you didn't mention this ---- 550), gaskets (300), efi wiring harness (400), that leaves you about 1500 for turbos.
i didn't mention possible maintenance items like a new tt fuel pump if the old one is worn out, knock sensor if the engine is out of the car, new fuel hoses, an electronic boost controller maybe?

Yea your right but the kit rebuild kit comes with all that i think. But as for the fuel pump i have the one out of my parts car

[vulcanrush]

Yea your right but the kit rebuild kit comes with all that . But as for the fuel pump i have the one out of my parts car

you're right, it comes with the nissan oem gasket kit and a water pump and a timing belt, so instead of 1,500, that leaves you 2,000 for the turbos.
knock sensor, ptu, tps, o2 sensors, motor/engine mounts, hoses can eat that up fast.
and a good ebc, like a blitz, is easily 550 bucks+.
so maybe jwt sport530's, etc, are more suitable for you budget. but you seem to have your heart set on sport700's.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Yea your right but the kit rebuild kit comes with all that . But as for the fuel pump i have the one out of my parts car

you're right, it comes with the nissan oem gasket kit and a water pump and a timing belt, so instead of 1,500, that leaves you 2,000 for the turbos.
knock sensor, ptu, tps, o2 sensors, motor/engine mounts, hoses can eat that up fast.
and a good ebc, like a blitz, is easily 550 bucks+.
so maybe jwt sport530's, etc, are more suitable for you budget. but you seem to have your heart set on sport700's.

Yea i already new hose kit freshly installed, 2 brand new oem o2 sensors already installed, plenty of tps sensors... Im going with a manuel boost controller till my moneys not funny.. But yes i have a hard on for the sport 700's so thats what im getting if i have to sell the bed that i sleep on to be able to afford it ill do it



I WANT SPORT 700'S!!! hah

[BigTDogg (MA)]

knock sensor, ptu, tps, o2 sensors, motor/engine mounts, hoses can eat that up fast.
and a good ebc, like a blitz, is easily 550 bucks+.
so maybe jwt sport530's, etc, are more suitable for you budget. but you seem to have your heart set on sport700's.

Shouldn't need to replace those first 3 things unless they're bad. The O2 and mounts I agree with. Same with hoses, though using SAE J30R7 hose for coolant hoses will save some money. Silicone for all vacuum lines. Do it once, do it right.

The difference in turbo cost is minimal, $300. The real cost is in the breather mods. Which can be done later, but some things like the inlet pipes are easiest to do with the engine out.

DO NOT USE A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER!!!!

They are bad, lead to boost spikes, and make your engine go boom. Do it once, do it right.

[NolimitZ32]

Im going with a manuel boost controller till my moneys not funny.. But yes i have a hard on for the sport 700's so thats what im getting if i have to sell the bed that i sleep on to be able to afford it ill do it

DO NOT USE A MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER!!!!

They are bad, lead to boost spikes, and make your engine go boom. Do it once, do it right.

Please don't use a MANUEL boost controller, they take siestas and INS could get you for running one under the hood.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Ok i did use th silicone hoses i aggreeee completely "do it once, do it right" as a matter of fact i cant explain how much i agree with that..

as for the boost controller i just wont use one till my money is not funny

so when you say the breather mods can be done later are you saying that i could run all this stuff even with stock breather setup?????

[NolimitZ32]

You can run big turbos with stock breather hardware but you shouldn't boost them too high (i am by no means an expert on this) but physics and flow dynamics dictate that the harder it is for them to breathe the harder they will push the more internal wear will result. Now what degree this will be to I cannot speculate but better safe then sorry.

[300ZXttZMAN]

You can run big turbos with stock breather hardware but you shouldn't boost them too high (i am by no means an expert on this) but physics and flow dynamics dictate that the harder it is for them to breathe the harder they will push the more internal wear will result. Now what degree this will be to I cannot speculate but better safe then sorry.

okk lets see what everyone else thinks i really hope i can do this

[BigTDogg (MA)]

You can run them, but they will be laggier. Meaning; you won't hit power till 4500RPM instead of 3500RPM (pulled numbers out of my a**, but the breather intake and IC piping, along with 3" exhaust makes a HUGE difference in spool)

PSI is resistance to flow. More PSI means more power, yes, but 500RWHP at 20PSI isn't as good as 500RWHP at 18PSI, because the 18PSI engine isn't working as hard, so things aren't getting as beat up.

If you're going to run stock IC pipes, get some Z1 SMICs and run those until you can afford to upgrade to the 2.5" IC pipes, 58mm throttle bodies and either Massive ICs or TDM Works FMIC.

[300ZXttZMAN]

well im not going to be able to go that route im going to have to roll with the stockies i wanna make sure that it does not damage anything being that it will be short on air

[NolimitZ32]

Thats pretty much it.

EDIT: you wont do damage if you set it up correctly as in not too much boost, and don't flog it all the time.

[300ZXttZMAN]

it sucks because
1. the power wont be near the same as sport 700's
2. Im going to have to pull the motor again! when its time for upgrading *sighs*

[vulcanrush]

it sucks because
1. the power wont be near the same as sport 700's
2. Im going to have to pull the motor again! when its time for upgrading *sighs*

the power won't be the same, but it'll be more driveable.
how often are you going to go at 140mph+? i'd rather have stock turbos than sport700's without supporting modifications.

[vulcanrush]

well im not going to be able to go that route im going to have to roll with the stockies i wanna make sure that it does not damage anything being that it will be short on air

Tony said it'll be laggier, you won't be doing any damage (with a good tune).
the only damage i can think of are overboosting (on a given fuel), running too lean (stock fuel injectors, etc.) ---- i'm sure there are more, but that's all i can think of.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

well im not going to be able to go that route im going to have to roll with the stockies i wanna make sure that it does not damage anything being that it will be short on air

Sentences please.

I have no idea what you're trying to say here. There's nothing wrong with stock turbos and breather mods. You'll get a reliable, incredibly responsive 420+RWHP on pump gas. Plus you'll save about $2k versus the Sport700s. If you just get new CHRAs for your stockers it's about $600 for the pair.

IMHO, you need to breathe, then begin the removal and teardown of your engine, and determine the root cause of your low compression. Do your own compression check as well. It's a very easy test to do, and if the shop did it cold, all this fuss could be about nothing. Was your car running like cacapoo before you brought it to the shop?

If it turns out your rings are shot, find a good machine shop near you to do the torque plate honing work, maybe even refresh the heads a bit and take it from there. The IC pipes can be installed with the engine in. The 3" exhaust can be done with the engine in. The only things that need to be done with the engine out are the manifolds, compressor inlets and turbos. Everything else can wait.

[ztommyx]

i've replaced one of the turbos with the motor IN the Z on my Greddy TD-05

[NolimitZ32]

The mani comes down low enough to do that? BTW apparently Greddy only lists the TDO4H 15g kit now, no more TDO5 16g.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Well im not going to be able to go that route im going to have to roll with the stockies. I wanna make sure that it does not damage anything, being that it will be short on air.

Sentences please. Fixed
I have no idea what you're trying to say here. There's nothing wrong with stock turbos and breather mods. You'll get a reliable, incredibly responsive 420+RWHP on pump gas. Plus you'll save about $2k versus the Sport700s. If you just get new CHRAs for your stockers it's about $600 for the pair.

IMHO, you need to breathe, then begin the removal and teardown of your engine, and determine the root cause of your low compression. Do your own compression check as well. It's a very easy test to do, and if the shop did it cold, all this fuss could be about nothing. Was your car running like cacapoo before you brought it to the shop?

If it turns out your rings are shot, find a good machine shop near you to do the torque plate honing work, maybe even refresh the heads a bit and take it from there. The IC pipes can be installed with the engine in. The 3" exhaust can be done with the engine in. The only things that need to be done with the engine out are the manifolds, compressor inlets and turbos. Everything else can wait.

NO my car was not running to its top shape smoking a little bit when it wants to ( but still smokes when it wants to not as much tho). Now it wont rev past 4k ( i bought 6 brand new oem coil packs, no difference) thats why im thinking it is compression

Im just out of choices unless someone can come down to sulphur and give it a good looking at

Also yes that is exactly what i plan on doing there is a good machine shop that we do good bit of buisness with. Im going to have him press everything in and acid dip, vat, ...... The works even rework the heads valves, lifters, seats, ect (i have a noisy lifter) basically make it how it was when it drove off the floor of nissan in 90' but with forged internals

BTW: Im looking into what you said about rebuilding the turbos, not a bad idea im going to consider.


EVERYONE LOOK> Ok just so everyone knows my car will not be getting alot of down time just strictly the amount of time it takes to reinstall the good rebuilt motor I have. The reason being is that i have decided that im going to be rebuilding my parts cars motor that was wrecked so that way i can still drive my z if i want.

[300ZXttZMAN]

So the good thing is that since there will not be a whole lot of down time i will be able to take my time in this rebuild. Which i belive is key when your doing anything like this, the ol saying >> "pay attention to details"

[Khiem]

Just for the record, my head just exploded. I would have never thought of anything like that.

Apparently neither has anyone developing Z32 turbo applications They would be amazing to have on our cars, providing the best of both worlds with stupid fast spool and freight train pulling ability.

hmm well im deffinately getting new turbos (that our upgraded) with my motor build
Could i go with sport 700's i like the way they look and the price is not bad could still run stock injectors and only would need a tune??

No stock injectors on anything bigger than the 530s, even 530s I wouldn't run stock injectors on, if you get 700s you need min 740cc NISMO injectors.

740s would be a good start, but IMHO, if you're looking for big HP, I'd seriously consider the BDE top-feed rail with the 1000cc/min ID injectors. Easier to swap out, huge flow capacity and lower relative cost.

What are the main things that would make a pump gas car with 600rwhp so $$$$?

You would need every kind of flow mod there is. Built internals, headwork, bigger turbos than you would need with a race gas tune. Race gas allows you to push the engine to it's absolute limit without the fear of detonation. Pump gas you don't have that luxury. With the saftey margins required for PG tuning, you lose some potential for the sake of safety. I'd be shocked it the GT28RS could hit 600RWHP with a safe tune on 93 octane fuel. Not saying it can't be done, but I'd be surprised for sure. Bigger than that and you're looking at Z1's GT800 kit, or SZ's EXP-90, both of which bring serious lag with them.

People often toss around 600RWHP or 700RWHP without knowing what that power brings. Not specifically targeting you OP, just saying in general. 700RWHP is where you start having manual transmission issues. Autos need to be upgraded long before that. Then you neet to worry about half shafts if you're drag racing. The safe limit for the OEM TT fuel pump is somewhere between 650 and 700RWHP.

IMHO, when approaching a build, it's always good to have goals. But rather than having a number as a goal, I like to think of what the car is intended to be used for. If you want a car that is super responsive and an absolute blast on the street, then I'd get the full 3" SZ stuff, 2.5" IC and inlet pipes, Sport 550s and call it a day. Maybe get Leader Gears if you can find a set. Then you'll have less lag than stock with a reliable 500RWHP all day long. If you want to built a drag monster, I'd get a built SZ auto transmission, EXP-90 turbo kit, all the aforementioned breather stuff, 1000cc/min ID injectors and BDE rail. That'll get you mid to low 10's all day with a decent driver.

More data (if you need it): my old 91TTZ with the 3.69 TT rear end with 320RWHP and 355RWTQ had a best 0-60mph time of 4.43 seconds in 55°F air. I haven't run my new car yet, but with 110+ more peak HP and TQ, and equal torque 1000RPM sooner, I expect very low 4s, high 3 second 0-60 runs. See below:



Long story short, there's a lot more to a build than a peak HP number.

dam tony your repsonses are the s***!! haha

[300ZXttZMAN]

YES agreed. He is always so helpful ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[NolimitZ32]

I have gone through and looked at all my info and got a hold of some new info and it seems that the GT675RS kit from Z1 will actually outflow a TD05-16G, not by much but it does perform better and being that it is a BB turbo It will have faster spool. Just wanted to throw this up in case anyone found it interesting.

[300ZXttZMAN]

yea thats definately interesting but im going to be going with sport 700's my mind is set

[BigTDogg (MA)]

yea thats definately interesting but im going to be going with sport 700's my mind is set

6 of one, half dozen of the other.

Both use the GT28RS turbo, I'm unsure which A/R the Z1 kit uses, but the Sport700 can be ordered in the preferred 0.64 A/R housing. As much as I hate to say it, the Z1 kit includes a bunch more stuff which will make install easier. Except this:

Forget slotted oil drain lines, spacers, and leaks. All Z1 GTBB turbo kits now include the Z1 silicone turbo oil return line kit.

DO NOT USE SILICONE lines for any oil application. I don't care what they claim, they will still sweat oil. Slotted OEM drain tubes do the job just fine.

[legion]

The Z1 GT675RS kit also uses the 0.64 A/R housing. I think you use to be able to choose between 0.64 and 0.86 but I don't see that option anymore. Either way, I chose the 0.64 A/R for the faster spool up time and with upgraded manifolds and full 3" exhaust, you will literally be thrown back in your seat.

[NolimitZ32]

More info I dug up:
Z1 GT675RS - GT2860RS with .64 A/R Housing
JWT Sport700BB - GT2860RS with .86 A/R Housing

Basically these turbos are almost identical, the 675s will spool faster but drop off faster as well while the 700s will be slower to spool but will net you higher peak numbers and pull through the higher RPMs. You can get the GT2860RS from Garrett in their stock form in either configuration off the shelf. either of these are good turbos, personally I'd go with the 675s for faster spool or if my pockets were lined with Benjamins I'd do a custom twin S256 setup (Borg Warner FTW). But if you are looking for top end power than stick with the 700s

[vulcanrush]

I'd do a custom twin S256 setup (Borg Warner FTW).

fitment is the issue (manifolds, etc.), the "best" turbos at the moment seem to the the precision turbos with billet wheels.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

More info I dug up:
Z1 GT675RS - GT2860RS with .64 A/R Housing
JWT Sport700BB - GT2860RS with .86 A/R Housing

The Sport700's can be ordered with either turbine housing. When they were first offered, they were only .86, but for the last few years you can order them in the .64

custom twin S256 setup (Borg Warner FTW). But if you are looking for top end power than stick with the 700s

VNT > *.* If you're going to go custom, why not go superballercustomsweettits!!!

[NolimitZ32]

The S256 isn't that big physically and twins on a well built VG would net well over 600 on pump but alas you'd have to fab manifolds and DPs. But yeah the billet wheels are bad a** although I don't know if id pay the premium for it when the results for me would be negligible since I just want a nice fast street car and am not trying to shave hundredths of a second off my 1/4 mile or lap time. and If I could run VNT I would, thats like having 6 different turbos under the hood all at once. no lag and the power of a 3071. . . . yes please.