J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

[driverdriver]

Pulling Dimmer SwitchCourtesy of Craze K

I'll try to explain as best as I can. It was my first time.

Well on my car there is 2 screws to the right and left under the steering wheel. Remove them and pull from the bottom first. It was alittle tricky to pull up but if you pull on the left side up and out, you'll see there are 4 little tabs at the top of the panel that kinda snap in.( or you can lower your steering wheel for ease of removel) Be gentle so you don't break them. There will be 2 wire harnesses you will need to pull out to remove it completely. They have tabs on them that you have to squeeze to remove them. Then on your dimmer switch there are 2 (possibly 3, mine might have been missing one.) more screws that hold the switch to the panel, you have to remove them to get the dimmer out and apart. The black back box comes off easily using a small flathead screw driver.( There are little tabs on each side that need to be pride apart. You'll see the roller tabs and the circuit board from there. Pull the roller out and bend the 2 tabs out towards the circuit board to make a solid contact once its put back in. I also did this to the pins in the wire harness end. (just slightly as not to break them or bend them too much) I sprayed them with the contact cleaner an let dry, then i reassembled it and it was good. You probably won't need the cleaner but I'm anal with this stuff. I can get pics if you need them also. I also take notes when taking things apart so when I'm reassembling them I have a backup in case I forget something. Hope this helps.

[driverdriver]

Transmission Self DiagnosticsCourtsey of Gerardjg

Transmission Self Diagnosticsusing AT light below your temperature gauge on the dash1-Warm up engine2- Shut off car and turn ignition switch to ACC position3-Wait 5 seconds4-Move shifter to D5-Turn ignition switch on do not start

AT check light should come on for about 2 seconds

6-Move shifter to 37- step on gas fully and release8-Move shifter to 29-Move shifter to 110-step on gas fully and release

The At Check light should start flashing 11 flashes aslight pause and start over again. All flashes should be the same length, any flash that is longer indicates a trouble the following list is what the trouble circuit or part is.

A longer flash indicates

1st Flash Revolution sensor2nd flash Speed sensor3rd flash Throttle position sensor4th Shift solenoid valve a5th Shift solenoid valve b6th overrun clutch solenoid7th tourqe converter clutch solenoid8th fluid temp sensor9th engine speed signal10th turbine revolution sensor11th pressure solenoid valve

[driverdriver]

HICAS Diagnostics-NOTICE some information in the post is pertinent only to the 300zx. Please ignore. Both the 300zx and J30t (1993 and 1994 models came with HICAS).

HICAS Diagnostic:

Turbos come standard with High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension, a fancy way to say 4 wheel steering. There's a visual diagnostic mode to check for problems in the HICAS functions. The 90-93 TTs have hydrolic HICAS running off the power steering pump, where '94+ utilizes electric actuators to handle the rear steering chores. Their codes are a little different, but the procedure is the same. It might required a few tries to make it work. Be persistant! Procedure:

1. Ignition switch 'off' manual transmission in neutral or A/T in 'P'

2. Start the engine

3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times & pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode.

4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.).

5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode.

6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit.

7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes.

HICAS light codes for '93:

1. HICAS solenoid R.H. 2. HICAS solenoid L.H. 3. Cut-off valve 4. Power Steering solenoid 5. Vehicle Speed sensor 6. Steering angle sensor 7. Steering Neutral positon sensor 8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor 9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor

HICAS light codes for '94:

11. HICAS control unit 12. HICAS motor power supply not present 13. HICAS motor output not present 21. Vehicle speed signal not present 22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present 23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present 24. Rear main sensor input not present 25. Rear sub sensor input not present 31. Parking brake sensor input not present 32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present 33. Engine speed signal not present

[roastduck88]

Belt Replacement:

I will try and explain as best I can since I just did this a week ago.

You will have to start by removing the intake tubing, and the two radiator hoses. This will open up the top of the engine and allow you to work.

There are three belts on the car, and of course the one you want to replace is the hardest to get to. You will need to loosen up and remove all the belts. The compressor belt has a tension pully on it. You will need to loosen the nut on the face of that pully, then loosen the bolt pointing down, and that will loosen the compressor belt.

The power steering belt will be removed by loosening the pump itself. In similar fasion, there is a bolt on the lower side of the pump that will need to be loosened. There is a nut on the back side that locks the tension bolt that will need to be loosened, then loosen the tension bolt. You may have to loosen a bolt on the top side of the pump to get it to swivle.

Next you will do the same to the alternator. Loosen the nut on the back side of the tension bolt, then loosen the bolt. I also had to loosen a mounting bolt above the alternator to get it to swivle as well. Once you have the alternator belt loose, you can remove the fan by removing the four bolts on the face. I just was able to get it out the top and out of the way. I don't know if there is an easier way or not, but be very carefull when doing so as not to damage some wires or the timing belt housing. You might even consider loosening the alternator belt first so that you can get the fan out of the way as one of the first steps.

Replace the belts. Would be a good idea to inspect the other ones too since you will have them off. They're not that expensive. Reassemble in reverse order. Just be sure that the alternator belt is the last one you tighten since you will have to replace the fan. It took me about 2 hours to complete the job, but I went into it blindly since I just bought the car.

You do not need to remove the radiator hoses, all the belts / screws are accessible from underneath the car. I've replaced all three belts just be loseening up the bolts w/o any other removal of parts on my 1994 J30

[karlwayne1]

hello every body my j30 motor locked up on me because low on oil please if any body know any kind of way to unlock the motor before i buy another one please help

[drea1aaron]

How do you replace the alternator? Is it pretty hard? Where is it located on a 95 J30? thanks

[leedrm]

pressure solenoid valve

Where is this located and how do it replace it.....My A/T light flashs 11 times, its benn doing it for years....I assume replacing pressure solenoid valve wll correct it...The transmission shift funny from time to time but not bad.

Thanks

[infinitirydah]

how difficult is it to replace the p/s pump on a 96 j30?

[driverdriver]

how difficult is it to replace the p/s pump on a 96 j30?

It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.

[paulwms]

I know this is the J30 DIY topic, but was hoping someone can help with a 1992 M30. Trying to drop the oilpan to inpect rod ends (something's knocking). The manuals say it should drop right out, but I've removed the cross member, jacked up the transmission, removed all oilpan bolts, and can't get it to fall. Its dropped down a half inch, but seems to be hung up on something at the rear - at the transmission connection. Any hints??

[infinitirydah]

It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.

is there anyway u could give me a step by step? because to be honest i dont even know where to start. any info or advise would be greatly appreciated.

[ELBeats]

hello, my heater display went out, no fan, no digitaldisplay?? any suggestions. its a 94 J30t. ty.

[QCJ30]

Thanks people! WOW! less than 24hrs on the site, and I'm already getting useful advice. I'm going to try to change the plugs on my 95J.

[QCJ30]

I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!

[driverdriver]

I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!

Congrats!!!

[driverdriver]

Cleaning the J30's MAF

Instructions prvided by J30inthe sun

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/1994_J30/ec.pdf Page 6 shows the location.

You need a spray can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. CRC makes one. http://www.crcindustries.com/h...05110

[Loki2012]

I had the same problem. I went outside (cold out!) and reparked my car (15 seconds of driving) and the next day it would not start. I searched the forums here and found out a way to start the car (but not the problem). Under the hood, at the fuse box unplug the fuel pump fuse. Start the car - crank it over until it starts. takes a second or two. It will rev up and then start sputtering. Switch off the car at this point and replace the fuse. Car should start and run fine. I had to do this a few times.

[driverdriver]

Link to J30 timing belt replacement procedure

zerothread/198122

[driverdriver]

Field Service Manual Location:

Contains various years.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/

[dbovar1]

I've lost power and pickup from a dead stop and in turns. Last week, I cleaned the MAF and haven't seen a difference. Fuel pump? transmission filter? Any ideas on why my '97 isnt performing in first gear?

Note: if i mash the pedal it will rev to about 4500 rpm's then take out like a bat out of hell but that kills the gas mileage...somethings wrong!

[driverdriver]

from J30diy

If you are having problems with the acctuator (sp?) and your driver side front door locking, you might want to try this:Take a small cro-bar and use it to GENTLY pry open WHILE using the key (most likely the master key) to unlock the door. My family's J30 front driver side door was out of alignment and this worked. Be sure to use a cloth to reduce scratching paint. After you are able to open the door, you should lubricate the door hinges, locks, etc. REMEMBER to be gentle and patient.

Best of luck!

[lovej30]

Since I've had my J30 (9 months), the radio hasn't worked. It won't turn on at all, and the antenna has never popped up. Could it be a fuse? Every now and then I'll hear a speaker kinda pop, but the radio won't turn on. I really miss music, so any help would be great. Thanks! -K

[driverdriver]

The factory stereo/head unit was a weak point on the J. Mine was replaced 8 years ago with a factory reman. If its not a fuse, then its the actual head unit

[BJLUBXO]

Maybe you can help, I know I can disconnect the headlight relay, but I don't see how I can reconnect it? My cable is too short to pull out far enough to connect.How did you get it reconnected??Thanks

[driverdriver]

Was your car originally equipped with daytime running lights?

[BJLUBXO]

My 1995 J30 California car did not have daytime running lights.

Lights only on by switch.

[johnofbham]

What are the steps for power steering pump replacement and could it be a hose instead?
I have moderate skills and less patience due to time constraints but not afraid to get dirty if it is something I can repair in a few hours. Please respond!

[Amadauss1]

On my J30 1997 have two, one on either side that screw directly into the plenum. I read in this thread how to change them and it seemed the direction made it sound somewhat easy. I have to comment on my experience. It was very difficult to do this and struggled a great deal taking off the hoses. I finally got the passenger side off after a great deal of struggling with it (its a bear putting it back on because of its thick size and not bending very well)and just cut off the driver side. Believe it or not found a very similar type hose at home depot to do the replacement. Also found what looks like an inhibitor in the hose to control the mixture which I put back in the new hose. Do not start this project without a 90 degree or at least 45 needle nose pliers. You need it to get to some of the hose clamps. Passenger side was easier then the drivers and with all the stuff in the way, had to disconnect whatever I could that would not cause any issue to get at these valves. And to get any type of rachet in that small opening, especially on the drivers side with the brake fluid container in the way was very time consuming. I had all types of adjustable wrenches and had to contort myself and the wrench to get it on the PCV after the hose was off to take the thing out. So just want to state, it can be done (next time will remove everything and do some replacement parts) but you need patience and the right tools.

[NY_Pito_NY]

Yes I do need a work up on how to remove the alternator

[NY_Pito_NY]

Thats it my j30 took a turn for the worse..now it doesnt veven start...now i def need to replace the alternator