I just clicked over 61k on my 2008 EX Journey AWD and was wondering if anyone has any advise or details on what's involved with the 60K Mile service and approx how much it costs.

I tend to be OCD about maintaining my cars and doing any preventative maintenance I can (long-time BMW owner...go figure!), but from my reading here I also understand that the 30K Service (and likely the 60K Service) from the dealer are ridiculously expensive and include a lot of unnecessary "fluff" which I'd love to cut back....I'm not not sure whether my dealer will do the critical items "a la carte" in order to save me some money.

I also have an Infiniti extended warranty which I'd rather not void since I'm not sure whether performing recommended maintenance at the specified intervals has any impact on the warranty remaining intact.

Any advice/experience you wouldn't mind sharing would be much appreciated!

Thanks gang!
Tim G.

TimGinCentralNJ wrote:I just clicked over 61k on my 2008 EX Journey AWD and was wondering if anyone has any advise or details on what's involved with the 60K Mile service and approx how much it costs.

I'm not sure how much it costs, because I plan on doing most of the stuff myself. However, here is a post I wrote a while back about the 30k intervals.
30k-900-t544407.html#p6252989
That was based on what I saw in the Maintenance (MA) section of the factory service manual. I found that some of the replacement intervals on fluids were not very definitive. However, I plan on changing them all out when my EX hits 60k.

NJGuy wrote:
I'm not sure how much it costs, because I plan on doing most of the stuff myself. However, here is a post I wrote a while back about the 30k intervals.
30k-900-t544407.html#p6252989
That was based on what I saw in the Maintenance (MA) section of the factory service manual. I found that some of the replacement intervals on fluids were not very definitive. However, I plan on changing them all out when my EX hits 60k.

Much appreciated, NJGuy. I actually did run across your 30k post before posting my question....it did provide a lot of helpful info, including "price" as--based on my experience with other marques--I have to assume the 60k service will be at least $500 more than the 30k. FWIW, I still use my Ford dealer for 100% of my 2011 Explorer's regular maintenance--both because I get coupons from them here and there and because their rates and fees for the majority of maintenance work is fairly reasonable....at least in comparison to what Infiniti charges. I also have a really good indy mechanic I have used on past vehicles whom I may look to have do much of the fluid changes (brakes/rear diff/transfer case), belts (if needed), etc. Not sure how straight forward the tranny drain/re-fill is, so maybe I'll leave that to Infiniti.

Thanks again,
Tim

FYI, I found out the pricing on some of the individual services that my dealership charges.

Engine oil & filter: $39.95
Tire Rotation: $46.00
Automatic Transmission Fluid Replacement: $159.00
Replace Differential Oil: $57.00
Replace Engine Air Filters: $68.00
Replace Engine Coolant: $76.65
Replace engine coolant/flush system: $120.00
Replace engine drive belts: $136.68
Replace in-cabin microfilter: $115.00
Replace transfer case oil: $67.00
Brake clean and adjust: $77.00
Brake Fluid Exchange: $109.95

There are other services I saw but didn't list (balance tires, battery service/replacement, replace radiator cap, replace spark plugs, replace wiper blades, replace remote control battery). I didn't think that they were that important/necessary around 60k.

Also, FWIW, my dealership charges $537 for the Schedule 1 45k maintenance package. Most of the service is a bunch of inspections. Included are:
-oil and filter replacement
-tire rotation
-cabin filter replacement
-inspect the following: transmission fluid; axles and suspension; brake calipers, pads, & rotors; brake lights and cruise control switches; brake lines and cables; differential oil; drive shaft boots; exhaust system; suspension ball joints; propeller shaft; steering gear and linkage; steering linkage ball joints; transfer case oil.

The dealership has their own 'recommended' 45k service as well. It's the same price, but includes even more inspections. I like my dealership, but not so much that I'd pay that amount for what's included in these services.

NJGuy-

Awesome info! Thanks very much for this. Like you, not having quite as much time to spend on "tinkering" (which I'd consider most of the stuff on the above list) with my cars, I'm seriously considering having the dealer do the majority of the critical items--especially those requiring fluid R&R. A waste of money, perhaps....but I'd wager this list would likely take me much if not all of a weekend, and I just don't have many of those free.

Much appreciated,
Tim

Mine cost close to $700. I had the AWD service and cut out the cabin air filter change and some other special engine oil additive they wanted to do so I could save money. They flushed my radiator and replaced the cap with a new one. Not sure if it needed that, but the new radiator cap was $20. One time they changed the battery in my key fob for ... $20

Teknical wrote:Mine cost close to $700. I had the AWD service and cut out the cabin air filter change and some other special engine oil additive they wanted to do so I could save money. They flushed my radiator and replaced the cap with a new one. Not sure if it needed that, but the new radiator cap was $20. One time they changed the battery in my key fob for ... $20

Wow, I am surprised (pleasantly) to hear the 60k mile service costs that little. Right when I bought mine in 2011 (it was a friend's 2008 lease buyout) I had the dealer replace the serpentine belt and do a few other minor things (cabin filter might've been one of them) in addition to a synthetic oil change...think the bill was around $400. So, judging by the pretty significant "shopping list" shown for the 60k mile service, I guess I assumed it would be closer to $1500 or more. I'm going to call my dealer to verify.

The main thing is, I'm at 62,500 miles now and I don't want anyone using that as an excuse down the road as to why my extended warranty won't cover a repair.

Appreciate your chiming in

Tim

Currently, I have 51k miles now on my EX35 2008. The last time I went to the dealership, I asked them how much for the 60K service. The guy said around $600-$650. Flush everything... Tranny, radiator, differential etc...

AWGD8 wrote:Currently, I have 51k miles now on my EX35 2008. The last time I went to the dealership, I asked them how much for the 60K service. The guy said around $600-$650. Flush everything... Tranny, radiator, differential etc...

Awesome! This much I can swing....especially if it saves me a weekend.

Thanks much!
Tim

For what it's worth, I happened to find out what my dealership charges for their "60K mile service" package. It's $637, but it's the same items as the 45K mile service, which I listed earlier in this thread (any-experience-advice-on-the-60k-mainte ... 70774.html).

The $637 is for essentially an oil and filter change, tire rotation, cabin filter replacement, and a bunch of "inspections". To state things nicely, I'll just say that I'll let other customers open their wallets for this service, as I wouldn't.

Ok guys, my car is already passed 60K miles. 60,055 miles to be exact.
If I will follow the local Infiniti 60K miles service, it will cost me $800

These includes :
1) Transmission oil drain /refill. (Only applicable to 5 speed A/T) mine is 2008.
2) Coolant drain/ refill.
3) Engine oil / fiter change.
4) Rear differential drain/refill.
5) Transfer case drain / refill. (AWD only?)
6) Drive belt replacement.
7) Cabin Air filter reaplacement.
8) Tire rotation.
9) Air intake filters replacement.

And the rest are just inspection and some lubing of drive shaft etc...
It did not even include brake fluid, steering fluid change. And just an FYI, our AWD also has front differential and does not even included for that price. That is an extra $99.95 here.

Base from what I read online from G35 and G37 forum is , you can do Ala cart for these services. You do not need to spend the money all at once.
The most important services at this point are in order of importance.

1) Oil and Filter change.
2) Rear differential oil drain and refill. (AWD only)
*
3)Transmission oil drain and refill.
4) Coolant drain / refill
5) Brake fluid flush(bleed) and refill.
6) Steering fluid drain /refill.
5) Front differential drain /refill.

* Visual inspect drive belt for wear. If worn out this needs to be replaced.



From what i read online who DO it yourself service....

1) Transfer case oil are going to be clean still at 60K miles and more. If car is AWD ,engaging the front wheels only happens in a few secs since our car is RWD by design. Engaging the AWD might not happen at all if you ease up on acceleration from dead stop.

2) Drive belt replacement depends on the visual inspection of the belt condition. E.g. Cracks, burn, etc... My service adviser told me that mine is still good.

3) Transmission for 7 speed A/T is sealed. No way to change the oil.
4) I heard that front differential oil are still clean at 60K plus.
5) My transmission oil judging from the dipstick is still clean (light color redish/purple and not dark.

6) Cabin filter is super easy to change.
7) Tire rotation can be done somewhere else for cheaper price.
8) I buy Pennzoil Platinum synthetic engine oil at Walmart for $33 6qts and I let my Infiniti dealer change it for me which includes the OEM filter ($9.75) and the labor for a total of $32 tax included. Over all oil change price --> $65 vs $90+ if you let the dealer use the Mobile 1 synthetic oil.

That is a lot of money for changing fluids and filters and inspecting a few things. To me having all this stuff done only makes sense if you want top bucks on a trade in they can list as a CPO. I am not convinced that with modern engines you get the metal shavings and sludge of days past, and think many of the listed services are very conservative so that the stealerships can make money. The 3.5k or so oil change they keep resetting my service warning for might be needed if I plowed fields with the car, otherwise 7k or so is fine for a commuter car, and I doubt any harm will occur if I push it to 10k, to wait for a special. I know a lot of folks go with synthetic oil, but I really do not get the point unless you are going to at least double the change interval. I have done regular oil in my 01 Highlander for 200k and it doesn't burn or leak a drop, but then it is a Toyota. On special at my dealership I can get an oil change and a tire rotation for $30 to $50, and it includes a pretty extensive inspection. The air filters are extremely easy to change on this car, although I have a CAI that I just blow clean every 20k, so don't have to worry about it. Even in the bad old days I never heard of flushing/changing brake fluid. Is this really necessary? I suspect that all the brake, differential, transmision fluid changes, if necessary at all, could easily be put off to 100k. If you are going to do them why not go to a regular garage that charges less per hour? It's not like there is some special Infiniti expertise needed for that stuff. In my experience the equipment that breaks down at 100k to 200k has nothing to do with all these fluids. It is the blooming sensors that go and end up costing a small fortune, since they inevitably run $250 plus each, even at a regular garage. Now if all this preventative stuff would stop those from going I'd be a model customer.

AWGD8 wrote: The most important services at this point are in order of importance.

1) Oil and Filter change.
2) Rear differential oil drain and refill. (AWD only)
*
3)Transmission oil drain and refill.
4) Coolant drain / refill
5) Brake fluid flush(bleed) and refill.
6) Steering fluid drain /refill.
5) Front differential drain /refill.

* Visual inspect drive belt for wear. If worn out this needs to be replaced.

This is helpful. I might have gone in this order if I had seen this prior to the work I already did.

AWGD8 wrote:
From what i read online who DO it yourself service....

1) Transfer case oil are going to be clean still at 60K miles and more. If car is AWD ,engaging the front wheels only happens in a few secs since our car is RWD by design. Engaging the AWD might not happen at all if you ease up on acceleration from dead stop.

This makes total sense. Mine was pretty clean.

AWGD8 wrote: 2) Drive belt replacement depends on the visual inspection of the belt condition. E.g. Cracks, burn, etc... My service adviser told me that mine is still good.

Mine looked okay. FSM says to inspect every 15K or 12 months after 60K or 4 years. I'll just change mine out when I have the chance to get to it.

AWGD8 wrote: 3) Transmission for 7 speed A/T is sealed. No way to change the oil.

I'd be a bit leery about not being able to change the oil here. I haven't done a chemical analysis on my own ATF, but I seriously question how long any ATF and its additives, synthetic or not, can maintain their functional properties more than 8 years/100K of use. I know that a bunch of automakers are starting to go this route, but I REALLY hope that they prove there is nothing to worry about.

meanie wrote:That is a lot of money for changing fluids and filters and inspecting a few things. To me having all this stuff done only makes sense if you want top bucks on a trade in they can list as a CPO. I am not convinced that with modern engines you get the metal shavings and sludge of days past, and think many of the listed services are very conservative so that the stealerships can make money. The 3.5k or so oil change they keep resetting my service warning for might be needed if I plowed fields with the car, otherwise 7k or so is fine for a commuter car, and I doubt any harm will occur if I push it to 10k, to wait for a special. I know a lot of folks go with synthetic oil, but I really do not get the point unless you are going to at least double the change interval. I have done regular oil in my 01 Highlander for 200k and it doesn't burn or leak a drop, but then it is a Toyota. On special at my dealership I can get an oil change and a tire rotation for $30 to $50, and it includes a pretty extensive inspection. The air filters are extremely easy to change on this car, although I have a CAI that I just blow clean every 20k, so don't have to worry about it. Even in the bad old days I never heard of flushing/changing brake fluid. Is this really necessary? I suspect that all the brake, differential, transmision fluid changes, if necessary at all, could easily be put off to 100k. If you are going to do them why not go to a regular garage that charges less per hour? It's not like there is some special Infiniti expertise needed for that stuff. In my experience the equipment that breaks down at 100k to 200k has nothing to do with all these fluids. It is the blooming sensors that go and end up costing a small fortune, since they inevitably run $250 plus each, even at a regular garage. Now if all this preventative stuff would stop those from going I'd be a model customer.

I agree with you pretty much on all counts.

For the CAI, I might worry a bit about the quality of the filter media compared to OEM. But if it's a reputable brand filter, there's probably no issue there.

I think brake fluid should be changed out every so often. But the intervals for brake fluid changes can be put up for debate. Although brake systems are supposedly sealed from the environment, I believe the fluid still manages to absorb a little bit of moisture through the rubber lines. My general rule of thumb is to check the color. If it's light, then it's good. If it's dark, it probably needs to be changed. (Actually, this is reminding me that the fluid in my other car is kind of overdue to be changed ). I think that there are also brake fluid test kits on the market that give a better indication of the condition of your fluid.
If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time, it wouldn't hurt to get a brake fluid flush at the right time; moisture in the system can eventually deteriorate the metal lines and components, and possibly affect other stuff in the ABS system.

According to Infiniti, a lot of the fluids do not actually require changing. If you check the maintenance schedule 2 or the FSM, it only calls for inspection, not replacement, on a bunch of them. Even though that's the case, I still prefer to change them out every so often.

NJGuy wrote:
I agree with you pretty much on all counts.

For the CAI, I might worry a bit about the quality of the filter media compared to OEM. But if it's a reputable brand filter, there's probably no issue there.

I think brake fluid should be changed out every so often. But the intervals for brake fluid changes can be put up for debate. Although brake systems are supposedly sealed from the environment, I believe the fluid still manages to absorb a little bit of moisture through the rubber lines. My general rule of thumb is to check the color. If it's light, then it's good. If it's dark, it probably needs to be changed. (Actually, this is reminding me that the fluid in my other car is kind of overdue to be changed ). I think that there are also brake fluid test kits on the market that give a better indication of the condition of your fluid.
If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time, it wouldn't hurt to get a brake fluid flush at the right time; moisture in the system can eventually deteriorate the metal lines and components, and possibly affect other stuff in the ABS system.

According to Infiniti, a lot of the fluids do not actually require changing. If you check the maintenance schedule 2 or the FSM, it only calls for inspection, not replacement, on a bunch of them. Even though that's the case, I still prefer to change them out every so often.

A couple of my thoughts for what they're worth:

Personally, CAIs scare me a little. I know what they claim to offer over conventional airboxes and/or filters: I've just not seen any empirical data to support it. Plus, that damn oil they're sprayed with invariably "irritates" mass airflow units which are not always cheap to replace--and rarely can be effectively cleaned.

As for the "non serviceable" transmissions and/or "lifetime fluids", don't get me started. All I can add to this topic is that one of the world's leading manufacturers of transmissions (ZF) used the "lifetime fluid" tagline throughout the 90's and early 2000's because at the time, "lifetime" in many Marketing departments' eyes meant "100k miles". Owners who thought the idea preposterous and requested fluid/filter changes anyway were met with dealers (BMW, Jag, etc, etc) who refused to provide the service because they were worried about voiding any warranties. The vast majority of these transmission died early deaths. And by the way, ZF has changed its recommendation to 60k fluid/filter changes on these very same era transmissions. The "common sense" take away for me is:

* All hydraulic automatic transmissions function generally the same basic way--and have since the 1940's (and yes, manu-matic transmissions like BMW's SMG, VW's DSG, etc are a little different)

* 95% of transmissions on the road today are recommended to have **some kind** of periodic maintenance

* Even long-established manufacturers like ZF learned their lessons and got away from "non serviceable" transmissions

So, unless you have a transmission which does not function like a traditional unit, you will probably want to change (or will end up wishing you had changed) the fluid/filter at some point.

As for the other fluids, who really knows. Logic says, if it looks clean, it's probably clean...but who wants to take the chance? Not me. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water vapor from the air. I've always flushed my brake fluid every 2 years or so. While it will change color if enough water soaks into the line, the question then becomes "how much damage has it caused since its been there"? Not many systems on a car are as important as your brakes, and in my opinion, it's not worth the risk or potential damage to save $100 every 2 years, or 45 minutes in your garage with a brake system speed bleeder.

My two cents, "your mileage may vary, etc.....

Tim

Regarding CAI, I prefer the dry element type called Pro Dry S by AFe.

http://afepower.com/technology_detail.php?tech_id=8

These are the filters I currently have in the car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AFE-31-10196-OE ... 6b&vxp=mtr

Personally, CAIs scare me a little. I know what they claim to offer over conventional airboxes and/or filters: I've just not seen any empirical data to support it. Plus, that damn oil they're sprayed with invariably "irritates" mass airflow units which are not always cheap to replace--and rarely can be effectively cleaned.

The R2C I installed is one of the most highly regarded CAIs by folks on the MYG37 site, and I previously had it on my G37xS. Some folks have done before and after dynos and found it adds about 14 hp, which translates into roughly a 5% increase to the ground (most unmodified 328 hp G37s seem to dyno at 265-280 hp at the wheel). I am never sure how much faith to put in dynos since they vary across manufacturers, and I think may underate an AWD car. Plus, I am not sure a fan in a closed garage can provide the kind of induction that true acceleration does. The R2C seems to be particularly good at midrange and seat of pants suggests this is true, but who knows? I don't do timed acceleration runs. It certainly sounds good, and throttle tip in seems more immediate, but I suppose it could be wishful thinking. Probably an engine tune would really bring the capacity out more, but I can't justify the extra dough for my purposes. The manufacturer claims the filters are devised from experience supplying filters for military vehicles, and can just be blown clean. They do not require oil, so there is no mess. The description of filter technology is below.

http://www.r2cperformance.com/technolog ... ology.aspx

meanie wrote:Personally, CAIs scare me a little. I know what they claim to offer over conventional airboxes and/or filters: I've just not seen any empirical data to support it. Plus, that damn oil they're sprayed with invariably "irritates" mass airflow units which are not always cheap to replace--and rarely can be effectively cleaned.

The R2C I installed is one of the most highly regarded CAIs by folks on the MYG37 site, and I previously had it on my G37xS. Some folks have done before and after dynos and found it adds about 14 hp, which translates into roughly a 5% increase to the ground (most unmodified 328 hp G37s seem to dyno at 265-280 hp at the wheel). I am never sure how much faith to put in dynos since they vary across manufacturers, and I think may underate an AWD car. Plus, I am not sure a fan in a closed garage can provide the kind of induction that true acceleration does. The R2C seems to be particularly good at midrange and seat of pants suggests this is true, but who knows? I don't do timed acceleration runs. It certainly sounds good, and throttle tip in seems more immediate, but I suppose it could be wishful thinking. Probably an engine tune would really bring the capacity out more, but I can't justify the extra dough for my purposes. The manufacturer claims the filters are devised from experience supplying filters for military vehicles, and can just be blown clean. They do not require oil, so there is no mess. The description of filter technology is below.

http://www.r2cperformance.com/technolog ... ology.aspx

Appreciate the info. I'll check it out!

Tim

TimGinCentralNJ wrote: As for the "non serviceable" transmissions and/or "lifetime fluids", don't get me started. All I can add to this topic is that one of the world's leading manufacturers of transmissions (ZF) used the "lifetime fluid" tagline throughout the 90's and early 2000's because at the time, "lifetime" in many Marketing departments' eyes meant "100k miles". Owners who thought the idea preposterous and requested fluid/filter changes anyway were met with dealers (BMW, Jag, etc, etc) who refused to provide the service because they were worried about voiding any warranties. The vast majority of these transmission died early deaths. And by the way, ZF has changed its recommendation to 60k fluid/filter changes on these very same era transmissions.

ZF is a German marque, correct? I know that I am speaking in general and may sound biased, but I was always under the impression that the Germans have traditionally tried to push the envelope in the automotive world; so I'm not surprised here. And even for more frequent maintenance items like oil changes, it seems to me that they try to make those intervals as long and drawn out as possible.

In contrast, I felt that the Japanese have usually taken a more conservative approach to things in order to ensure reliability. I thought that as part of their philosophy, they make sure the technologies and practices they plan to use are sound prior to implementing them. Again, I am speaking in general and may sound biased. It's highly possible that my stereotypical view of the German and Japanese automobile companies may no longer apply in this day and age.

With all that being said, I'm still skeptical that Infiniti's "sealed" gearbox will prove to be reliable anywhere past 100K. Can a sealed AT be reliable after 10 years of average driving and between 150K-200K on the original fluid? Sure; but my opinion is that a company would have to put in A LOT more resources into the design, construction, and testing of the ATs and ATFs than they've done in the past. And I highly doubt this has been done.

I'm really hoping that Infiniti (and other auto manufacturers with sealed ATs) did their homework here and put in the right amount of effort to ensure that a sealed transmission should cause us no worry; but I don't think that they did. I want them to prove me wrong.

Page 9

If towing a trailer, using a camper ,or car top carrier, or drivin on rough or muddy roads ,replace transmission fluid/oil at every 30,000 miles or 24 months (except with 7 speed automatic and the M35/EX35 with 5 speed transmission)

and on every interval page there is a number 2 next to automatic transmission fluid



2 Except models with 7 speed automatic transmission and the M35/EX35 with 5 speed automatic transmission Equipment varies by model. Perform only those operations that apply to your vehicle.

My thought is I will never put 100K miles on this car and I will leave well enough alone. I have 29K on it now and won't mess with the transmission, I only put about 5K a year on a car if that and keep them for about three to four years before I get tired of them.

TimGinCentralNJ wrote:

meanie wrote:Personally, CAIs scare me a little. I know what they claim to offer over conventional airboxes and/or filters: I've just not seen any empirical data to support it. Plus, that damn oil they're sprayed with invariably "irritates" mass airflow units which are not always cheap to replace--and rarely can be effectively cleaned.

The R2C I installed is one of the most highly regarded CAIs by folks on the MYG37 site, and I previously had it on my G37xS. Some folks have done before and after dynos and found it adds about 14 hp, which translates into roughly a 5% increase to the ground (most unmodified 328 hp G37s seem to dyno at 265-280 hp at the wheel). I am never sure how much faith to put in dynos since they vary across manufacturers, and I think may underate an AWD car. Plus, I am not sure a fan in a closed garage can provide the kind of induction that true acceleration does. The R2C seems to be particularly good at midrange and seat of pants suggests this is true, but who knows? I don't do timed acceleration runs. It certainly sounds good, and throttle tip in seems more immediate, but I suppose it could be wishful thinking. Probably an engine tune would really bring the capacity out more, but I can't justify the extra dough for my purposes. The manufacturer claims the filters are devised from experience supplying filters for military vehicles, and can just be blown clean. They do not require oil, so there is no mess. The description of filter technology is below.

http://www.r2cperformance.com/technolog ... ology.aspx

Appreciate the info. I'll check it out!

Tim

I have a write-up on this page about my R2C install for my 08 EX. Look it up. Very noticable difference, and the sound is intoxicating.

Jason