z32 wont go over certain rpms when warm

[Alexbsz32]

hello!

Was wondering if anyone has come across this problem with their z32. I own a 1990 z32 n/a and as of two weeks ago my car started to bug out at operating temp. first time this happens i was going up a hill accelerated hard and then it hit 5k rpm and boom no power the car acted like i downshifted hard and threw me forwards lol. after slowly getting up the hill i shut it off on the side of the road let it sit for two minutes the started it back up now i was limited to 2000rpm after that no power if you try to go past the 2k the engine sounds like a** and then goes back to idle like you aren’t even pressing the gas. Everything is fine when the car is not all the way up to operation temperature you ran bang gear rev all the way up to redline but when its warm it limited me to either 2k or sometime feels like i’ll hit 5k rpm (1st)boom hit no power then shift(2nd) that gear has no power at 4k shift again (3rd) no power at 3k. Then stop at a stop light now im limited to 2k at all gears from starting over almost feels like ignition cut

I have checked: ecu no codes 55 no faults found, check ecu itself for burn circuitry everything looks good smells not burnt, brand new maf oem nissan good volts at plug, no vac leaks, tps, ptu, new fuel filter, battery is good, coilpacks good, new spark plugs ngk oem, cats aren’t plugged.

mysteriously this problem first came up after installing k&n wet filters ive since then replaced with oem dry filters and still no change my car also has a slight miss at idle since i bought it 5 month ago
but no miss when over 1500 rpm.

any info on my problem would be great hopefully get this problem resolved i wanna drive this temperamental girl longer then 10 minutes

[macgiver]

mac, yeah get a vacuum gauge on it , run it around again , note readings - any shaky pointer , NOW clean the MAF (let it be cooled down) , drive & note vacuum gauge one more time - see where this takes you ? Check also ANY temp sensors , like fuel,eng,that may not throw a code and do keep scanning ,for ALL codes "tripped" may not Illuminate the MIL(Svc. eng soon). Gotta start somewhere. Also , unlike most engine ECM inputs & output device/parameters ones with actual PCB "CIRCUITRY" like MAF's are highly susceptible to going "intermittant-failure" upon temp. changes and/or EXTREMES.Some MAF's have almost as many electronics components on a PCB-board as a P/steering controller module for example , AND it's located in HOT eng. cmptmnt.

[Alexbsz32]

sounds good i’ll try to put a gauge on the line will a standard 180psi work fine? and i swapped mafs with a known working one and still the same issu

[macgiver]

mac,nah , sorry for any confusion - a vacuum gauge - measuring vacuum I believe doesn't read any of it's vac "scales" in psi . Most have ,as in Weather Barometers ,Inches of Hg(mercury) , because it's like NEGATIVE psi? You know - a VACUUM . Many vacuum gauges DO "twist" backwards(CCW) to measure IF there's a slight psi PRESSURE (up to usually 5-9psi) , and most are rated "liquid-fuel"to be used in a gasolene fuel line! To measure CARBURETER pressure (NOT F/inj.!!!).
Many places to test from with a "Tee" and vacuum hose - intake runners,throttle bores(L. & R.),open plenum intakes , carb nipples,PCV lines, even subtle readings from SNORKEL - between MAF & Throttle bodies! It will read a vacuum through 0 pressure , then pressure up to the typical aforementioned limit(10psi).
Your 180 psi question? ,you must be thinking/have an oil pressure gauge there, or in mind ? And that's not at all part of my suggestion was I'm sorry for any confusion - but the oil pressure gauge tells a "good" story too!

[Ace2cool]

Is it idling fine? Sounds like it could be vacuum related, but could also be electrical.