Z32 TT INJECTOR TEST RESULT

[ACK]

Hello, everyone, wanted to thank you guys for your help in advance once again.

I just performed an injector test with my new Inova multimeter:

Set the Ohm to 20 on the meter:

i tested 3 injectors and they all started climbing up to 18... and stopped!!

did i do this correctly? i followed the steps on the z32 wiki link, i have not checked the other 3 injectors as they are harder to access. However the car does run normal, i do smell fuel when its at cold start, and at idle it does have a faint sputter, but clears up once the RPM's go up/ and im only boosting (according to the stock boost meter) about 6 psi??
from what i understand and have known throughout the years, the TT's boost is @ 9.5 which on the needle is a bit passed the half way mark, my car does not ever reach that mark. i have replaced a few brittle vacuum lines and celaned up the MAF and TB's, and changed the spark plugs.

Now back to the injectors, what you guys think? i also ran a diagnosis from the ECU and it was 5-5 which is no problems.

please advise.

AC

[ACK]

k.. i set the ohm meter on 200, the previous setting was @ 20m which i think is much higher, i checked 2 of the injectors ( passenger side bank) and it was 12.8 and 13.1, which im assuming is good, then i checked the drivers side 1st injector and it was @ 33.2 which is bad, for now it makes sense that im getting a small amount of erratic idle from that specific side. now comes the fun part , hunting down new injectors at a reasonable $$.

your thoughts are always welcome.

[t.mcginley.jr]

10-14 ohms is the OK range, so yeah 33.2 is well outside of normal, that injector is for sure bad. You can either buy a new set, or get a reman'd set for cheaper. Most people will probably tell you to buy new ones, I see no problem buying reman'd ones , I'm running a set of newer style ones without issue.

As for the 6psi boost, the factory boost gauge is notorious for crapping out (as is the oil pressure sender). The only way to know for sure would be to hook up a vacuum gauge and see for yourself what it's boosting at. However, if you have a bad knock (detonation) sensor, the ecu will put the car into "safety boost" mode which limits the boost to 6psi. If this were the case though, you would get code 34, which you didn't. So your gauge is probably just messed up. Does it feel like it's lacking power?

[ACK]

Hi T , i just dont feel that deep push in my chest, like a twin turbo , i did get on it coming out of a corner and it did it once, but i didnt pay attention to the gauge. im going to do another diagnosis in the morning to see what i get, i think since the injector is not flowing the right amount, it retards the timing, thus less boost as "safety mode" i have been working with turbochargers for over 19+ years and specifically, with datsun Z's and Z31, but its been about 10 years since i have played with a Z, i was in Volvo's for a bit, so now im trying to discover, revamp what i knew and whats going on today, you know what i mean? anyway, where would i find good reman. injectors? i know there is tons of places, but any you know of? tnx

[t.mcginley.jr]

I got mine off ebay from an ebay store that specializes in reman'd injectors, named TLFperformanceparts. I haven't checked which ones they have for TT but I know they had both old style and new style NA ones. I bought them because they were reman'd OEM injectors, not some knock-offs.

http://stores.ebay.com/TLFperformancepa ... 34.c0.m322

If you just want it running good, stock OEM 370cc remans will work fine. You can also upgrade to 400cc or 550/555cc injectors, etc. for increased performance in the future. OEM Nissan is obviously good for stock replacements, but other brands work well too like Nismo, JECS, Sard, and I think Z1motorsports sells their own too. Also supposedly JECS is the OEM manufacturer, not really sure if that was ever conclusive. Stay away from Deatschwerks.

[ACK]

k so .. for the past 2 days i have been taking apart the plenum, valve covers and injectors and cleaning up all the gunk and etc.

i bought new injectors seals, and o-rings, plenum gasket and TB gaskets. Going to replace more vacuum hoses and what not, im also performing a water jacket delete from under the intake manifold. I picked up 2 good injectors, hopefully thats all i need for now.

im prepping the valve covers to paint them either silver or red.

ordering a new set of silicone intake/turbo hoses as well.

next is intake and focus on the suspension, and i want to start from the back, including the driveshaft carrier seal/bearing... the rain may set me back a few hours.

[ACK]

Hi guys, i completed, the 2 week task of , replacing all the injectors, i upgraded to SS braided fuel hose in between the fuel rail connection with new clamps, replaced gaskets, intake, TB, o-rings for balance tube, replaced all the vacuum, hoses with silicone, repalced the turbo outlet hoses to silicone as well, as well as new silicone turbo/intecooler hoses.

I rerouted the water lines, which deletes the under intake plenum lines. i took it for a quick spin and it still boosts, low, the hesitation and weird idle and fuel odor is gone. I wondering if its the knock sensor. i have to do a ECU diagnosis again.

oh , i stripped and painted the valve covers with a gray/silver ceramic paint. Looks clean.

Anywho, once i figure this out, im buying a intake.

[t.mcginley.jr]

If your knock sensor is bad (or its harness), the ECU will put the car in safety boost mode, keeping boost at 6psi. The ecu should be throwing code 34 if that's the case

[ACK]

ya , i have heard that , ill wonder if i disconnect the harness and see if it boosts normal, will that tell me if the sensor is the culprit... anyway thanks bro will keep ya posted

[nissanfreak12]

You disconnect the harness it will automatically put the car in safety boost. More than likely if you have code 34, the harness is bad. The sensor itself normally doesn't go. You can always relocate the harness and sensor when you get a new one. There is no safe way around this one.

[ACK]

but of course! i should have known better to think that. thanks!

[ACK]

so driving home last night my check engine light came on. car was normal in every aspect. i pulled the code and it read a 32 and a 34, 32 is EGR circuit so i knew i may have done something different while i was replacing all my vacuum lines and i found out one of the vacuum lines was miss routed on the passenger side it was reverse of the diagram , thus i corrected it and im assuming the EGR was getting an incorrect signal. i have not driven it yet, im sure it will be corrected after it warms up ( engine). 34 is of course Knock sensor, which is still not letting my twins boost, im ordering a new sub harness and going to buy a new knock sensor. BWD is a great quality brand and i will replace it with that. $50 at Oreillys .


cheers

[ACK]

Hi everyone, so i set my TPS according to some write ups here and on wiki, ( my idle was around 1500) i set it at .43 v exact, however im still getting a 1100 rpm??? i don't have any vacuum leaks. i did T in the oem boost sensor line to the driver side vacuum port, which is essentially the same pressure as the original spot on the driver side, don't know if this causes the higher rpm's. im also getting a check engine light, which is EGR and Knock. I know what i need to do for the knock sensor, the EGR is a bit interesting, because i traced everything back and i didn't change or misplace anything.

ps. the fan comes on while driving , happened twice and went away, i wiggled around the water temp and fan switch sensors and it came on and off, so i may either have a bad wire or a sensor. i will replace them. Funny thing is that i never touched anything but replace the injectors and and replaced all vacuum hoses. its interesting. Further inspection is a must, as my fuel gauge gets lower at normal driving speeds.

Your thoughts are always welcome.

[nissanfreak12]

I would fix the wiring and just replace the sensor, sensors are not too expensive. Make sure there is no green crud in the terminals.

[ACK]

The egr sensor?