Z32 tt clutch options

[Porschetech38]

So i just pulled the carbonetics triple plate out of my buddies z32 and the centering plates where warped due to improper break in. The shop that installed the clutch put the car right on the dyno with the new clutch before break in, and carbonetics strongly advises against doing this. Im quite new to z32s and was wondering what clutches people are having luck with. The car is currently at around 350 - 400 ft pounds of torque, and the highest we plan to go is around 500 - 550, so i need something that can handle these numbers. I really would like to go with a single sprung hub/plate type of setup, as i dont see the need for a triple carbon plate racing clutch with such low numbers, but i deffinatly need some good guidence, i dont want to be putting another clutch in this thing for a while.

[evildky]

sounds more like impropper installation, a tripple plate is defintely overkill but shouldn't be damaged form lack of brake in unless the to bearing wasn't fully released

I had a southbend stage4 and it was certainly more streetable than atripple plate while beign a bit stiff for a daily driver but should be plenty for your goals, the stage 3 might be enough but then it might not

[Porschetech38]

I talked to carbonetics and they said that improper break in can warp the centering plates ( the steel plates between the carbon plates ) also a long half clutch can be bad for it to and according to where the adjustment was when i got the car i think that may have been half of the problem. Im worried about putting a clutch in it with a really stiff pressure plate because i read on z1 that the hard sprung pressure plates can be detremental to the crankshaft thrust bearings on cold starts due to the lateral force apllied to the crank in order to accuate the stiffer pressure plate.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Im worried about putting a clutch in it with a really stiff pressure plate because i read on z1 that the hard sprung pressure plates can be detremental to the crankshaft thrust bearings on cold starts due to the lateral force apllied to the crank in order to accuate the stiffer pressure plate.

I have a custom Kevlar/Feramic dual friction Southbend clutch which according to Joe ([email protected])is between their stage 4 and 5 clutches. It's firm, but not ridiculous. Definitely DD-able, just as long as your whole DD isn't bumper to bumper traffic.

[evildky]

I believe the dual friction is a stage3, does it have a sprung hub? I had the stage 4 ro 5, it was a 6 puck solid hub

yes heavy clutch pp's can shorten the life of a thrust bearing but anything with a sprung hub shouldn't be enough extra wear to matter

and while not propper break in can shoorten the life of the clutch, it shouldn't shorten it that much unless it's not adjusted properly, multiplate diske tend to be thicker requiring the to bearing to be adjusted hopefully you can get enough adjustment at the pedal

here's the think, race cars, don't get driven ont he street and get little to no break in, they often use multiplate clutches, thsi lack fo break in will shorten the life of the clutch but adjusted propperly it will bed in quickly and work just fine, stop by the pits at any drag race ro roar race and you'll see brand new clutches get broke in on the track

[Porschetech38]

well this thing has deffinatly got some warpage i can feel it as i run my hand over the centering discs, how do you guys feel about the ACT 6 pluck?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

well this thing has deffinatly got some warpage i can feel it as i run my hand over the centering discs, how do you guys feel about the ACT 6 pluck?

I had a sprung hub RPS 6-puck, didn't find it very street driving friendly. Engagement is pretty much on/off. You can slip it at the track, but for simple 1st/reverse movement it's not fun.

Don't know much about ACT clutches for our cars.

[evildky]

ACT is one fo the best aftermarket clutch companies, they come at a premium for a reason, 6 puck or solid I recomend you stick with a sprung hub thats what makes the car more drivable