z32 no spark no fire please help!!

[fiznowler]

Hello all! I have a 92 300zx NA 2 seater 5spd. It has a JDM vg30dett "swapped" into it. I bought this car for my 240sx vg30dett motor swap project. When I got the car I basically turned it over by hand and gave it a good visual inspection. It was a good price and I had to drive a few hours to pick it up So I didn't have time to try and get it running. Well I am to the point now that I have time to start on my swap. I am having a hell of a time getting this thing running. It isn't getting spark and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be kicking on either. I have got it to turn over by key now and replaced the old style ignitor with a used new style one that I was told was good. I fixed all the grounds I could find and even added a few extras just to make sure that wasn't the issue. I am not sure if the harness is from the motor or the car or if that matters. When I pulled the CAS and hand turn it I can hear injectors hum and all that but it still isn't sparking at the coilpacks. It has crossed my mind that perhaps the factory alarm has a cut off for fuel and fire but I can't find anything to verify that. I have tested the wiring and it seems to all be correct at the ignitor. Keep in mind all wiring was kinda half done half not. I have went around and plugged in everything I could find but I am not 100% i didn't miss something. I am not trying to get the Z on the road just want to hear the motor run before I swap it in my s14. I want to know that if it doesn't run when installed in the s14 that it is something in my wiring not something like a sensor or ignitor bad. Does anyone have any idea as what would cause this problem. Checked Ecu and am getting these codes. I believe all fuses and relays are good I have swapped them around and still same results.
21: Ignition Signal Circuit
34: Detonation Sensor Circuit

If someone knows how to make this thing run I will powdercoat a part of your choice within reason of course for free or cost of powder if you want something I dont' have!

I am really wanting to start this swap. IF you have an extra ignitor that you are positive is good I would also trade some powdercoat work or buy it from you!

Thanks, Matt

[NolimitZ32]

Really with as many things there are to cause these conditions I'd go throught the FSM and follow all their test procedures, if you have the old style PTU (ignitor) with is aluminum with heat sink fins you can test it with the procedure in the FSM as well. If I were you I'd say pull a couple of the plugs and the CAS and visually test for spark, then test for signal and power on the COP connector, go from the plug up the circuit and eliminate things one at a time. Really I could tell you what and how to test but rather than write a novel I'll say go to FSM Section EF EC page 42 and have fun, you'll need a multimeter and a test probe along with basic wrenches and drivers, nothing super special.

[fiznowler]

I did that troubleshoot Saturday night. I am getting ground for sure at the COP what should the other readings be? I messed with this for several hours saturday so all my readings blur together. I remember the CAS had like 12v 5v 5v and ground. I did the whole troubleshoot section then and still seem confused. I will step back and start at the begininng and do the whole section tonight and post up what I get. It just seems to me I have to be missing something easy. Is it possible the factory alarm could cause this?

[NolimitZ32]

Not sure man, never had to deal with the factory alarm (thank god its one of the only things that still works without trouble on mine) yeah only thing I can tell you is to follow the test procedures in the FSM I mean literally start on page 42 of EF EC and work through every procedure until you find something thats not working right. I've been chasing gremlins for a few months actively now, the car has made it out of my neighborhood once in that time so I feel your frustration.

[Ace2cool]

If it was the factory alarm, the starter relay would be disengaged, but just to be sure, you could pull the plug. It's the box above the ECU in the metal bracket and wires coming off the left? side.

[fiznowler]

Well I now have spark just need to get the fuel issue lined out. For future searchers when I swapped out the old style ignitor for the new style ignitor I had the wires backwards. The ground changes sides on the new ptu. Search series 2 ptu 300zx igniter and there are several guides out there. Here is link to the one that got me up and going. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264703 That cleared up my code 21 error I was getting. I tried hardwiring the fuel pump just to see if i could get either one to kick on and neither one would turn on. I am also getting no voltage to any of the wires going into the fuel pump with the key on. So I will rig up an extra KA pump in a bucket just to see if this motor will run. I am not going to waste my time getting them to work in the Z as I dont' plan on using the pumps or getting the car on the road ever again.

[NolimitZ32]

No voltage to the pump might mean the fuel pump control unit went bad. and there is only one pump in Z32s The other wires are for the fuel gauge.

[fiznowler]

not sure no limit. I even tried running a wire direct from battery. I tried running voltage through all the wires to see if I could get the fuel gauge to move and it wouldn't either. Like I said I am not going to mess with it. It is alot easier to just hook the ghetto rigged extra pump I have that I am positive works for my purpose. IF this thing attempts to run I will be content. After that I can start buying parts that I have been holding off on.