Z32 Manual trans question

[ca18det_boy]

So I've been doing some searching across the net, and either my search skills are ridiculous or the info is known just not put out there. My trans in my SR is finally going out (go figure right?) so of course I'm looking at doing the Z32 transmission upgrade. Now from what I've found out there aren't any differences between the TT and NA trannies. However upon looking through ebay and dealers selling trannies, I found a local dealership online that claims that the JDM 98+ transmission is better because it uses double the synchros. Now for my famous questions...

1) Is that just online jargon about the 98+ transmission or is there some validity in their claim?

and

2) If that transmission is better,is the difference worth the extra $1600 for a brand new JDM transmission as opposed to a $200-$300 used USDM transmission?

For anybody that might be wondering why I wouldn't just go with another SR trans...the SR transmission isn't designed well enough to reliably hold down 461whp and I just don't want to waste my time doing a R&R on it just to have it break a couple months down the road. I'd much rather just do it correctly the first time. Thanks for your time and I really look forward to hearing your inputs!

[Z-owned]

The only difference between n/a and tt trannies is the bell housing is a little larger on the tt. As for the 98 spec tran's no I don't believe it's worth it from what I have heard from those that have experience with them. They do have a few more synchro rings I believe as well as a couple other minor changes but I have seen people complain about certain gears grinding still with them which is the biggest complaint with the older version.

[marty1mc]

Hi, there is a slight difference between the NA and TT transmission for the Z32. The TT transmission housing is larger by a few mm. This is to accommodate the larger TT flywheel. When people use the NA transmission in a TT, they have to grind the inside of the housing to make clearance and add a shim to the starter to move it out. Just be aware of this as the TT also has a different clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. The starter is the same on both.

The 98+ transmission was redesigned and is supposed to be superior. The only issue I have read about (I don't have one) has to do with the shifter breaking. It seems to be a new installation issue and not a reliability. But, I saw two posts from different owners that the shifter mount would come loose. But, it wasn't a huge deal.

As far as going for one, it's all personal preference. I had an NA trans with 156k on it and it was becoming toast quickly. I had 4th gear grind from the time I bought it and by the time I did the swap, it was grinding anytime I shifted into 4th or 2nd. Redline MT90 helped when I bought it, but not at the end. The transmission I got with my swap (USDM not JDM) had 68k on it and doesn't grind at all. So, I think its a crap shoot. If you can find a transmission with low miles, then go for it. I would be suspicious with anything over 120k.

[ca18det_boy]

Sweet, thank you very much for the info. I really appreciate it !

[BigTDogg (MA)]

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forum ... d-off.html

Fix for 4th gear grind of pre 98 trannys

[DCaff300ZX]

I thought I'd read somewhere the '93 transmission was updated slightly as well, and when I did my swap bought a used '93B trans with about 50K on it.
It is a little stiff when cold going into 2nd (I just give it a second to slip in without excess shifter pressure) but no grinding, and works perfectly after about 5 minutes driving...was I just lucky or the '93 better, IDK...Anyone know for sure to help the OP?

[dantesdoom]

your best bet is getting a junked transmission for a hundred or so and having it rebuilt at a transmission shop...the cost around here would only be about 400-500 (if done by a friend) or so (more if you dont know the people) including the transmission itself and the rebuild. That way you would have a NEWSED( used, but new to you) transmission. Also most of these 90's transmission will easily run for 200,000 if not "hotdogged"....mine had 173,000 on it and i didnt rebuild when i rebuilt the motor....simply due to funds...but an easy fix if it breaks later.