Z32 Drift build

[skywhine]

So im new to Nico and decided i'd introduce myself (or mainly, my car), as well as ask a few questions about Z32's and Race/Drift car setups.

Name: Shain C
Origin: Seattle, WA
Car: 1994 300zx TT
Plans: Build car to compete in Pro-AM competition (Drift), Final goal of 550-600hp, full aftermarket suspenssion (I mean EVERYTHING), Roll cage, modified steering knuckles, weigh under 3000lbs.

I could keep going but for now ill talk about the car:




Current Mod list as of 3/15/2012

BC Racing BR type coil overs
AMS RUCA's
ISIS FUCA's
AMS short shifter
Tomei HICAS lock
SPEC stage 3 clutch
Megan Turbo elbows and downpipes
HKS cat back
Boost controller set at 15psi
JWT tuned ECU (For 15 psi/60hp claimed)
Twin HKS SSQV's
FMIC
Z1 hardpipes
Earls 19 row aluminum oil cooler
Z1 silicone coolant lines
AEM UEGO wideband
Megan boost gauge
Megan water temp
Slotted/drilled rotors
SS braided brake lines
Aero (It looks to me like C-West)
JDM tail lights and front markers
XXR 521 18x9+ 25/18x10.5+20
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 225/40R18 235/40R18

More pictures/progress here: http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/t ... -FAIR-lady

Thank you
-Skywhine

[ArticDragon192]

You're definitely gonna need steering modification before adding all that power, as even in NA form, the stock steering is pretty pansy. And best of luck trying to find someone to modify your knuckles. Z32 knuckles are made from cast aluminum, and most reputable welders with knowledge of knuckle modification will go nowhere near cutting and welding them. Just a warning with regards to that. VGs are great motors, but their downfall is their inability to relieve oil pressure in the heads. So before upping power, you will want to look into oil drainage from the heads in order to prevent destroying such an investment.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Skywhine welcome to NICO.

Another thing I think you should invest in if you stay with the VG is the Specialty Z oil pan. Since your car is going to be seeing a lot of sideways action it would greatly benefit you by having the extra oil to toss around in the pan.

Here is a link: https://specialtyz.com/shop/sz-vg30de-tt-oil-pan.html

[skywhine]

You're definitely gonna need steering modification before adding all that power, as even in NA form, the stock steering is pretty pansy. And best of luck trying to find someone to modify your knuckles. Z32 knuckles are made from cast aluminum, and most reputable welders with knowledge of knuckle modification will go nowhere near cutting and welding them. Just a warning with regards to that. VGs are great motors, but their downfall is their inability to relieve oil pressure in the heads. So before upping power, you will want to look into oil drainage from the heads in order to prevent destroying such an investment.

I know a guy who is an absolute wizard with a TIG welder and has already said he would modify them. He runs a shop here in WA called Garage AutoHero and he builds all the local drift cars. If he decides no to touch them, he also swapped another local z32's front suspenssion to s14 suspenssion. So at least i have options. I dont really know how they did it, but it was done.

This oil problem your talking about, is it relateable to the RB's and how the rear oil drain in the head was too small and causes oil to stay in the head to long? I know about that, but i havent really done a TON of research on the VG yet as ive only had the car 6 months.

[skywhine]

[quote="300ZXttZMAN"]

Another thing I think you should invest in if you stay with the VG is the Specialty Z oil pan. Since your car is going to be seeing a lot of sideways action it would greatly benefit you by having the extra oil to toss around in the pan.

I agree 100%. When i did the first oil change i was baffled when 4 qts filled a 3.0 liter twin turbo engine...But man that pan is $$$. Ill still probably get it if i end up spending $7000 on building the engine..Id be super angry if i threw a rod cause of oil starvation while sideways, and what little oil was in the stock pan was at one side and not at the pickup.

Or... What about a Dry Sump setup?

[vulcanrush]

Plans: Build car to compete in Pro-AM competition (Drift), Final goal of 550-600hp, full aftermarket suspenssion (I mean EVERYTHING), Roll cage, modified steering knuckles, weigh under 3000lbs.

Current Mod list as of 3/15/2012

BC Racing BR type coil overs
AMS RUCA's
ISIS FUCA's
AMS short shifter
Tomei HICAS lock
SPEC stage 3 clutch
Megan Turbo elbows and downpipes
HKS cat back
Boost controller set at 15psi
JWT tuned ECU (For 15 psi/60hp claimed)
Twin HKS SSQV's
FMIC
Z1 hardpipes
Earls 19 row aluminum oil cooler
Z1 silicone coolant lines
AEM UEGO wideband
Megan boost gauge
Megan water temp
Slotted/drilled rotors
SS braided brake lines
Aero (It looks to me like C-West)
JDM tail lights and front markers
XXR 521 18x9+ 25/18x10.5+20
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 225/40R18 235/40R18

Is the VG reliable when in a Race scenario. IE a track car. By that i mean will i expect alot of headaches while at the track, any motor if tuned right will be reliable, im talking smaller problems, just.."Headaches". The reason i ask is i wouldnt mind an LSx swap for simplicity, no turbos and all the conditions that need to be met for them, its made here in america, parts are cheap and easily available. At this point i'm not TOO deep into the VG to where i couldn't still pull it and sell it, or swap into another Z, and start investing in a different engine. Let me make it clear, the only reason i am contemplating swapping in an LS, is because i would like the end result to be the "Best bang for the buck". Wheather it be the VG or another engine.

The goal is 500-550 WHP. Enough for 5/8ths one day. However for now (3/8ths) i won't build it to that level. Only once i decide to run 5/8ths.

550whp VG30DETT from where im at so far:
Garrett Turbo's :$2500
Apex'i PFC :$1200
RC injectors :$800
EBC :$300
Rebuild engine :$1000 (ARP hardware, MLS HG, ect.)
Other misc. :$500-1000
--------------------------------------------------------
Estimated total :$6000-$6800
$6800 is quite a "chunk of change" considering the rest of the car needs alot of attention before the car can competetively put down that kind of power. And will that setup be "reliable" or problematic?

1) no to the rc fuel injectors, stick with nismos (preferably 740cc's) or the ID's if you decide to go tf.
2) you don't need mls HG, the oem one is more than enough and is actually better in some ways, they're more forgiving, etc.
3)get rid of the ams suspension parts, on a car that sees abuse, i wouldn't run them on my own car if they gave them to me for free.
4)for a street car, xxr wheels are fine, but perhaps you want something lighter and/or stronger for a car that regularly sees the track.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Welcome, but a 235 on a 10.5" wheel? That's narrower than OEM TT tires, and you want to put 500RWHP through those? Better rethink the tire/wheel plan as well.

Suspension I'd contact SPL Parts (http://www.splparts.com/chassis-Z32.html) as they make the best suspension stuff for our cars.

Contact member SilverTwin for a real short shifter, not the overpriced AMS turd.

Budget about $500-$600 for a good tune once your build is complete. The tune is the most critical part. Look to see if you can set up or get in on a dyno day locally where they fly in Greg and Seb of Specialty Z or Hari from Ztuner.com. Both options are excellent.

[skywhine]

1) no to the rc fuel injectors, stick with nismos (preferably 740cc's) or the ID's if you decide to go tf.
2) you don't need mls HG, the oem one is more than enough and is actually better in some ways, they're more forgiving, etc.
3)get rid of the ams suspension parts, on a car that sees abuse, i wouldn't run them on my own car if they gave them to me for free.
4)for a street car, xxr wheels are fine, but perhaps you want something lighter and/or stronger for a car that regularly sees the track.

-RC was just one of many brands. Guess i should have just said Upgraded injectors

-Good to know about the aftermarket gaskets, i may just get OE. But id still say its gonna cost $1000 to rebuild it, ill probably get Upgraded pistons as the rods are strong, Correct me if im wrong.

-As for the knock off parts, their just temporary, they can be removed. The only AMS parts are the Rear upper control arms and short shifter. And i went with the XXR's because in the initial build id rather spend the remaining $2000 in more important upgrades, for cast one piece their supprisingly light. Had i bought Forged wheels the car would likely be stock on forged wheels right now, without many of the other parts.

[skywhine]

Welcome, but a 235 on a 10.5" wheel? That's narrower than OEM TT tires, and you want to put 500RWHP through those? Better rethink the tire/wheel plan as well.

Budget about $500-$600 for a good tune once your build is complete. The tune is the most critical part. Look to see if you can set up or get in on a dyno day locally where they fly in Greg and Seb of Specialty Z or Hari from Ztuner.com. Both options are excellent.

-The 235 in the rear is just the street setup. Ive got another set which i can run a 255-275. Remeber, right now i only have maybe 350whp. 275 would be nice at 550wh.

-Tell me if this is a bad idea i have also been considering just sending my JWT ecu back and get it re chipped for the 550BB or 600BB kit they sell. Only $100 to have ecu re chipped. Rather than buy a PFC for RB26, then modify to work on VG30, then get tuned.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

The JWT (or any other off the shelf (OTS) tune for that matter) will only change your K value for your larger injectors, or the number of MAFs you are running. It's not a tune as much as it's a parameter edit to get the car to idle and drive. A tune, a real dyno tune with A/F measurement and knock control/monitoring will give you the most potential from your car, safely.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Also look into the SpecialtyZ Expansion downpipes, which will help with the spool. MSP manifolds will as well, and with the engine out for a turbo replacement, it's the perfect time to upgrade. The last thing I'd add to the list is a Selin Dual MAF translator.

[bartZ32tt]

do a pcv re-route. oem routing is proven to let oil seep by during tight turns.

[vulcanrush]

-Good to know about the aftermarket gaskets, i may just get OE. But id still say its gonna cost $1000 to rebuild it, ill probably get Upgraded pistons as the rods are strong, Correct me if im wrong.

correct, the stock oem rods are plenty strong, but regarding your budget, will you be doing the machining work yourself? 1k will get you the parts, but then shops will charge you for bore/hone/assembly work if you don't want to do it yourself.
typical rebuilds can cost anywhere from 4-5k, easily.

-As for the knock off parts, their just temporary, they can be removed. The only AMS parts are the Rear upper control arms and short shifter. And i went with the XXR's because in the initial build id rather spend the remaining $2000 in more important upgrades, for cast one piece their supprisingly light. Had i bought Forged wheels the car would likely be stock on forged wheels right now, without many of the other parts.

they're surprisingly light!!!!!!!! sorry, just a pet peeve

[300ZXttZMAN]

Another thing I think you should invest in if you stay with the VG is the Specialty Z oil pan. Since your car is going to be seeing a lot of sideways action it would greatly benefit you by having the extra oil to toss around in the pan.

I agree 100%. When i did the first oil change i was baffled when 4 qts filled a 3.0 liter twin turbo engine...But man that pan is $$$. Ill still probably get it if i end up spending $7000 on building the engine..Id be super angry if i threw a rod cause of oil starvation while sideways, and what little oil was in the stock pan was at one side and not at the pickup.

Or... What about a Dry Sump setup?

If your complaining about the cost of the SZ oil pan then you def won't be interested in the dry sump setup.
https://specialtyz.com/shop/dailey-engi ... de-tt.html

Also just noticed the AMS parts. You need to take them off asap they are a danger to you and your car especially if your tracking it.
Read up on AMS parts.

[Z-owned]

Car looks familiar you recently buy it?

[skywhine]

Car looks familiar you recently buy it?

Yes, i bought it around february IIRC, from a friend in Mountlake Terrace. When i bought it, it was stock with the body kit.

[DCaff300ZX]

I thought I'd seen it around too...anyway, welcome Washington!
Good luck with your build, it will be fun to see another Z32 drifter around here if you post videos.

[Z-owned]

I know a guy who is an absolute wizard with a TIG welder and has already said he would modify them. He runs a shop here in WA called Garage AutoHero and he builds all the local drift cars. If he decides no to touch them, he also swapped another local z32's front suspenssion to s14 suspenssion. So at least i have options. I dont really know how they did it, but it was done.

This oil problem your talking about, is it relateable to the RB's and how the rear oil drain in the head was too small and causes oil to stay in the head to long? I know about that, but i havent really done a TON of research on the VG yet as ive only had the car 6 months.

There is other ways to get better steering angle if that,s what your after. Maybe Edgar can repost in this thread with his pics and knowledge after his mods. But it seems like spacers and 350z tie rods if I remember right are whats needed.

[ArticDragon192]

I know a guy who is an absolute wizard with a TIG welder and has already said he would modify them. He runs a shop here in WA called Garage AutoHero and he builds all the local drift cars. If he decides no to touch them, he also swapped another local z32's front suspenssion to s14 suspenssion. So at least i have options. I dont really know how they did it, but it was done.

This oil problem your talking about, is it relateable to the RB's and how the rear oil drain in the head was too small and causes oil to stay in the head to long? I know about that, but i havent really done a TON of research on the VG yet as ive only had the car 6 months.

Oh cool, Garage Autohero is awesome. That Sr Z32 is insane. Didn't know he was running S14 suspension. Explains the steering angle.

There is other ways to get better steering angle if that,s what your after. Maybe Edgar can repost in this thread with his pics and knowledge after his mods. But it seems like spacers and 350z tie rods if I remember right are whats needed.

For competition, that is no where near enough angle.

[skywhine]

The JWT (or any other off the shelf (OTS) tune for that matter) will only change your K value for your larger injectors, or the number of MAFs you are running. It's not a tune as much as it's a parameter edit to get the car to idle and drive. A tune, a real dyno tune with A/F measurement and knock control/monitoring will give you the most potential from your car, safely.

Ok so you say dyno tuning is a must. My only concern is the factory ECU. If i wanted dyno tuning i would need an ECU that is adjustable/tuneable. Correct me if i am wrong but the factory ecu is not. Therefore i would need $2000 worth of standalone, which i am not against, but for now its not on my priorty list.

Im reviving this thread as the VG has to come out very soon. Seems i have possibly broken a piston skirt...Once warmed up it developes a really nice knocking noise abouve 1500 rpm. (Sarcasm on the "nice"). That being said its been sitting for about a month, while ive been situating a daily. Now im happy with the daily and back to focusing on the Z. Also on a side note cylinders 1-3-5 have 150psi cylinders 2-4-6 have 125psi, both sides each cyl. within 2-3 psi of eachother. How is that for interesting. Oh and of course an obnoxious lifter. What a trifecta, lol.

I don't care to try and diagnose the knocking noise over forums, thats not the intention of this post. I will simply tear the engine apart and find what broke and upgrade it. Along with a full rebuild. Im hoping i dont have to overbore, but i know i most likely will.

My plan as of now: Pull the motor and tear it apart.

Block:
Weisco forged pistons
Stock rods
overbore .020
Deck the block
new bearings/ thrust washer
polish crank journals
ARP main studs
hot tank
De burr
balance rotating assembly

Heads:
pressure test/ hot tank
deck the heads
valve grind
valve guides (Only if needed)
Valve stem seals
port match (gasket match)
rebuild lifters, replace as necessary
ARP head studs

External:
standard 120k with oil pump
z1 550bb kit
Either detachwerk or nismo injectors (If the DW are redrills please let me know, also do i want 550cc or larger?)

Thats the Jist of where im at. Hoping this build will net between 450-500whp. Im in need of your imput as to my plan, is it adequate, am i missing items, any other machine work i should look into..Ect Ect. Im still new to the VG and dont know about ALL the "quirks". Id prefer to only build the VG once (tho i understand their are too many variables), id rather do it right the first time on internal work.

So far im looking at around $5,000 worth of parts (as most of you are aware, its not cheap) and i have no idea what the machine work is going to cost, but i would prefer to pay extra for proper machine work, IE someone who has knowledge with our technology and not the 65 year old man who runs a machine shop that knows eveything in the world about SBC motors..Their is miles of differences between the 2 and what works on 1960's technology doesn't really apply to our technology, this i understand, which is why im willing to pay a little exrta for proper maching. Because as stated earlier: im building a race engine, however since its drifting, im not worried about .010's of a second, more so just RELIABLE power.

Thanks

[300ZXttZMAN]

Based from what I hear the DW injectors are redrilled - I have never confirmed this on a first hand account though, but I have heard it many times.

Also note that for our cars the CC's of your injectors are roughly equivalent to the amount of power they can handle.

For example:
550cc can roughly support 550hp and so on... So you should be fine but I would suggest get Nismo injectors that way you have some wiggle room. Plus Nismo injectors are just better.

[skywhine]

Hello NICO,

Sorry long time no update. Been very busy putting in lots of hours at work to support this addiction.

Sine my last post i have pulled the engine and discovered the issue, leading to a very rash decision. The noise was a spun bearing. Destroyed the rod and scored the crank. So i decided to build the VG, as any Zed Head would.

So far i have purchsed:
Wiseco pistons .040 over
Eagle rods
ACL's
ARP heads and mains
Nismo 615cc
LW fly.
60k kit
Oem gasket kit
Solid mounts
Egr delete
Other random stuff.

I dropped everything off with ray early january. It should be done monday. I believe i owe him around $1200 for all machining, including balancing.

Future plans before i re-install the engine include but are not limited too:
Z1 550bb kit
Boost controler
Full flow oil cooler adapter
Jwt reflash, i already own the jwt chip, cheap alternative to standalone, for now.
Possibly solid lifter w/ 272 cams and hardware but thats another $2000.

At least thats the plan.

For pictures and a more up to date thread:
http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/t ... -FAIR-lady

[gsrteg]

i love your car so damn much.. im not sure why. im not a fan of the bumper at all but it looks really good with your set up, plus i love slammed z's mines soon to be, and im feelin the exhaust as well, was my first choice until i found a 3". post up more pics and a vid of a drive by or some action shots! good luck on your build im staying tuned

[skywhine]

Thanks.

You should have seen it when I bought it, same bumper, stock ride height, stock wheels. It's was so embarrassing I couldn't even daily it.

I sold the exhaust. Getting 3" expansion turbo elbows for the new turbos, then 3" straight to 2 ISIS dual tip, one set on each side.

This but on each side:
http://i.imgur.com/pCBMN.jpg

I plan to hit the track this season.

[Fearspect]

Very curious to hear more about these steering knuckles; I have been looking for a solution of that nature.

[skywhine]

Sorry the knuckle mod probably wont happen for awhile. Still prioritizing the engine rebuild and turbos. Hope to have it runningin the next coupple months. The machine work is done, now i just need to find time to assemble everything and save up another $3000. This **** is expensive..

[Ace2cool]

You can say that again. At least you're taking the time to do it right. Keep on rocking man.

[Fearspect]

What, if anything, are you planning to do about the vlsd?

On another note, I humbly suggest you add a proper brake kit to your build. Tracking a 500+ hp car on stocks isn't going to give you reliable control. A lot of people even run a second set of calipers on the rear controlled only by the ebrake.

[skywhine]

Ill either shim the vlsd or buy a kaaz. So far its been really strong and not unlocking, but we'll see what happens after a long day at the track. I might be able to get away with just adding a cooler. Tho i dont know too much about that, seems you'd need to install a pump somewhere as their is no pressure in the diff to promote flow tru a cooler.

I plan to add a second rear caliper for ebrake, but the car doesn't even run yet lol. Ill eventually upgrade the brakes, trust me its on the list.

I imagine betime im finally "done" with the car ill have spent over $20k, but oh well. At some point someone paid over $40k for the car stock back in 1994.

[skywhine]

You can say that again. At least you're taking the time to do it right. Keep on rocking man.

Thanks.

I came from the s chassis world and am tired of dealing with half assed builds. And our engine bay is such a pita i dont want to have to pull the engine again over some BS. On a 240 its no biggie, different story on z32.