z32 Clutch and Flywheel

[perrin33]

HI there guys im new to this forum and fairly new to the Nissans! I am a level one mechanic in Canada and have just recently bought a z32! I got an amazing deal on a 1990 300zx vg30 dett with a blown clutch/flywheel (taking it apart to diagnose asap..) Is there anything i should be on the lookout for when i remove my transmission? i know to check the outer crankshaft bearing/seals while i have the transmission off to confirm its not leaking But other than that i don't know too much about the job... Also Wondering What kind and or stage of clutch i should get as a replacement? As of right now the compression in every cylinder is to specification but there is a knocking noise coming from the rear of the engine/front of the transmission, which i believe is the cracked flywheel. I suspect it broke because the clutch did not have enough clamping force.. but any insight is greatly appreciated!!:)

[Ace2cool]

What mods are on it?

As far as trans removal, pretty standard as far as most cars go. There's a carrier bearing on the driveshaft that needs to be removed. It's easier to take the trans mount down and let it sag a bit to get to the top bolts, but be sure to support it.

As far as which clutch to go with, I went with the Z1 sport street, cause I'm not planning big power any time soon. There's a ton of options out there, and it's all dependent on how hard you wanna push and how you wanna drive it. And how much power it's making, of course.

[perrin33]

Engine mods so far i believe just a manual boost controller and upgraded radiator and oil coolers...

In terms of the carrier bearing is it the rear bearing located just above the connection of the exhaust split as in the link below? and how exactly is that done? Also do i have to do anything to the clutch slave cylinder at all?

[img]https://www.google.ca/search?q=drivesha ... 1020%3B672
[/img]

[Ace2cool]

Yes, just remove those two bolts.

For the slave cylinder, just don't disconnect it from the line and DO NOT push the clutch while it doesn't have anything to press against.

[wisniaPl]

With clutch you always have to go over your tq numbers...i would go act6 puck with new flywheel

[NolimitZ32]

If your car is street driven I would stay away from unsprung hub clutches, I'm running a SZ SS Max clutch, DXD/Southbend also has very stout street clutches. Sprung hub clutches are better for daily/weekend car as they are easier on your foot and dont shock the driveline as much, also they have a bit of give so they last longer and are more forgiving by their nature. When it comes to the flywheel it is really a matter of preference as a stock weight flywheel is a bit more forgiving as well but will make your car not as revhappy where as an LW clutch will make the car more responsive but you wont have the inertia so drag racing and freeway downshifts are negatively affected.

[wisniaPl]

6 puck sprung.......my friend with evo8 put 40k on his act 400whp puts more stress on clutch than red

[rechly160]

Thanks for sharing this information with us. I really needs this type of information.

[NolimitZ32]

wisniaPl, my comment wasn't directed at you whatsoever I'm just sharing information I have acquired throughout the years. As for ACT, there are arguably better clutches for much cheaper for our cars, and at the end of the day there are only 2 or 3 clutch manufacturers in the world, all clutches be they SZ, Exedy, ACT, etc. are assembled by either Daikin or Valeo to Exedy, ACT, etc. specs and re-branded. I also believe that centerforce produces their own but don't quote me on that. Some companies like DXD/Southbend cryo-treat and shot peen some of theirs which makes them stronger but at the end of the day the construction is the same. My personal recommendation for a car that will not be seeing more than 400lbs/ft would be to go with a Southbend Stage 2 HD-0. I ran a stage 2.5 rally on my built STI and it was awesome and for the price it cant be beat.

[wisniaPl]

With clutch you should always go over the numbers you plan to push just to be safe....mod bug always bites and people want more power
Southebend has a lot of failures just google... Thats. Why i would go act 6 puck sprung, or something proven for 500whp car...best clutch Ive ever had and could hold the most is exedy triple disc but thats money, stock like drivability

[NolimitZ32]

1. And I stand 100% on this: You WANT your clutch to be the weakest link in a drive-line of a high hp car, a clutch is meant to give or even self destruct if something goes wrong, its much cheaper to change a clutch than pretty much any other part of the drive-line. you never want to install a clutch that is made to handle 700tq on a car with 200tqm its a waste of money and dangerous to the rest of your vehicle in case something does go wrong.
2. I have personally owned and known more than a few folks that have had Southbend clutches on all sort of cars mild to absolutely downright insane and never had problems with them.
3. To the OP and anyone else reading this, generally if anyone you are having a conversation with refers to horsepower when discussing clutches you should be weary, clutches are ALWAYS rated in TQ numbers and as anyone that knows cars understands that your HP and tq numbers will rarely go hand in hand, it is best to use the proper meter.

[perrin33]

Thanks alot for the insight guys! so in conclusion i want to go with a slightly higher torque rated flywheel and clutch than the stock ones as this is only meant to be my weekend kinda car not racing or anything...
So all in all i am probably going to want to go with a bit higher torque rated flywheel ad well as a higher rated clutch so it can grab better as well as smoother.. i dont have a whole lot of expireince in clutches but is the following true NolimitZ32 ?

number of pucks=
less pucks(smaller friction surface)= quicker and harder clutch grabs
more pucks(greater friction surface)= smoother grab

Im just always looking to learn:)

And as far as clutch stages go that is just the rating for how hard the pressure plate is? Stage 1 mild return force to your foot- stage 5 very hard return force to your foot?

Thanks again guys!!

[NolimitZ32]

^ that makes sense, I've never thought about it, I personally have never owned a designated race car, all my cars have been street driven and for the comfort of operation I have always used full round clutches, I have driven a couple cars with pucks and it seems that what you said goes hand in hand with the truth as pucked clutches are generally heavier, but I am the first to admit when I don't specifically know so . . . I don't specifically know