z32 brake install questions

[pr0digy1]

I just installed 300zx calipers and rotors on the front. The kit i have came with the 2 rods to hold pads in place, 2 pins to hold rods in place and a metal spring to hold pads in place.When i spin the hub, the rotor rubs against the outer pad even when fully bolted on. If i pull on the pad with my finger then it's fine. Is this ok or did I do something wrong?

I'm also wondering how to bleed the calipers. They have a bleeder valve with a rubber cap on it. Do i unscrew the whole valve or is it in open position?

Here's a pic of what i'm talking about.

[pr0digy1]

also, is there a proper way of facing the slots on the rotor?from the pics i found they would go either way.

edit: 2 of the4 pads has this metal piece sticking out of it, what's it for?

[schyawn]

Pad rubbing is fine, your rotors are backwards. the metal clip is a warning for when the pads have worn down too much, it will squeal on the rotor.

[pr0digy1]

thanks for the replyi found some good writeups on bear website and they actually say that rotors must be installed the way i have them on otherwise they won't honor warranty, mine are not bear but brembo though

http://www.baer.com/support/Te...pID=2

[schyawn]

colour me stupid. I've never seen them installed that way, although i'm no authority on the subject. Note on that page that BAER uses a "reverse slot" configuration. Perhaps that's the cause of the confusion.

[MagikDragon]

Is the caliper upside-down? I think the bleeder valve is spposed to be on the bottom. also the way i hear works best for bleeding brakes yourself is speed bleeders. u can get them at http://www.splparts.com and I'm sure at a bunch of other places.

[schyawn]

no way man, bleeder on top. How else are you going to bleed the air out?

[MagikDragon]

oh yeah, sorry I haven't even been in a car in 3 months, sorry. i do retract that statement but the speed bleeders are still recommended.

[pr0digy1]

I'm gonna check the rotors to see if there is a direction marker on them. Also I was told that the vanes inside the rotor should scoop the air and that's how i should direct it.

Moving on to brake fluid. I'm changing all 4 calipers, pads and rotors with basically brand new ones so I'm gonna do a full system flush and get some new brake fluid.I'm thinking of getting DOT4 fluid, I dont think DOT 5 is necessary. What do you guys think?Also, what brand fluid should I get? I was recommended Motul (very hard to find in my area) and Redline brake fluid.

[schyawn]

scoop? well, if the vanes inside are curved they should be swept backwards away from the direction of rotation. Like a centrifugal pump, er.. turbo. This pulls air from the hub and flings it outwards. More flow gives more cooling.

[pr0digy1]

I checked the rotors and the vanes are not curved and there is no direction indicated. I'm gonna leave the direction as I showed in the picture.

[jr_ss]

I wouldn't worry too much about the direction of rotation. The porsches that have crossdrilled and slotted rotors have them facing the way you have yours from the factory. They'll work the same way. But if it does have an indicated direction on the rotor it would be wise to switch them around. Most Brembo's have the rotors facing the opposite direction as yours so it's entirely up to you.

[pr0digy1]

thanks for the reply jr-ss, i'm gonna keep them the way they are

i have yet another question about pad wear indicator metal piece, i installed in on the inside of the rotor, therefore it's not visible, is that ok or should it be sitting on the outside?thanks

[jr_ss]

There should be a pad indicator for the outside and inside pads. They each need one. You shouldn't be able to see them anyway, usually they are attached to the pad itself.

[pr0digy1]

Out of the 4 front pads only 2 have the indicator. They're Axxis Metalmaster pads. I'm starting to 2nd guess these pads.

What do you guys think about these pads?

[MagikDragon]

thats fine u only need 1 per side. thats how all are even the factory ones. assuming that they wear evenly. thats fine. i believe the indicator pad goes on the side facing you. but I have been wrong before.

[pr0digy1]

i believe the indicator pad goes on the side facing you. but I have been wrong before.

can anyone confirm this?

[cdlong]

on fixed calipers it shouldn't matter too much, but on sliding calipers it goes on the inside (closer to the engine, i'm not sure what "facing you" means)so that's how i have them on my car.

to answer another question. just get valvoline synpower, it's DOT 4 which is good enough for just about anything you will do with that car. no need to spend loads of money on brake pads. DOT 5.1 is a waste for most people. DOT 5 is not something you want to put in your car, it will ruin lots of stuff and suck too. you'd have to work your *** off to find some anyway.

[jr_ss]

To add to what CD said about ruining things with Dot 5. If your cap says Dot 3 or 4 it's ok to run either or but it's a bad idea to mix the 2. If you run Dot 5 it will ruin your seals and possibly your calipers as well. The calipers, seals, lines, etc were designed for use with Dot 3 or 4, so why use 5 and destroy ****? Senseless act is all I can say. Use what is recommended for the car. If you want to get specific, find out what the 300 uses if it's Dot 4, use the Dot 4. Most cars pre- 2000 used Dot 3 or 4.

[cdlong]

mixing DOT 3 and 4 is fine, they are basically the same stuff, it won't damage anything. DOT 5 will, however, either straight or in a mix.

DOT 5.1 is different from DOT 5. DOT 5.1 is ok to use in a passneger vehicle and mixing it with DOT 3 or 4 is also ok. but if you are using DOT 5.1 you obviously want the benefits of fresh fluid so there isn't much reason to mix them.

[jr_ss]

Ah my bad, neither DOT 3 or 4 should be mixed with DOT 5. As 3 and 4 have heavier bases than the 5. Water could collect between the 2 and cause corrosion in the brake lines and various parts. If you want to switch to Dot 5 it's a good idea to flush the entire system with Dot 5. There really is no benefit switching to Dot 5 over 4 though. Dot 5 has a higher boiling temperature of 54 degrees and that's the only benefit, but who actually plans on getting their brakes that hot? That's why you upgrade, so you can dissipate heat faster. I wouldn't waste my time and/or money to switch to the silicone base fluid over the gylcol base fluid. But do what you want man.

[pr0digy1]

thanks for all the comments guys, after thinking about it might just stick with DOT3 because i dont think i'll get the brakes that hot

[steaminhotryce]

Hey pr0digy1,

Where did you get your caliper paint? What brand is it and what's the color's name? I'm also looking for caliper paint to paint my Z calipers that will soon be installed, but can't find much options at my local auto stores. Thanks!

[cdlong]

Ah my bad, neither DOT 3 or 4 should be mixed with DOT 5. As 3 and 4 have heavier bases than the 5. Water could collect between the 2 and cause corrosion in the brake lines and various parts. If you want to switch to Dot 5 it's a good idea to flush the entire system with Dot 5. There really is no benefit switching to Dot 5 over 4 though. Dot 5 has a higher boiling temperature of 54 degrees and that's the only benefit, but who actually plans on getting their brakes that hot? That's why you upgrade, so you can dissipate heat faster. I wouldn't waste my time and/or money to switch to the silicone base fluid over the gylcol base fluid. But do what you want man.

sorry dude, but if you don't know what you're talking about, don't post. some of that info was wrong. no need to add more wrong info if the questions have been answered.

water won't collect between the two because glycol is hydroscopic (i think that's the right word) which means it absorbs water. you shouldn't mix the two because each requires different rubber in the calipers and MC. that and silicon is horrible for passenger vehicle applications.

you kept refering to DOT 5. DOT 5 and 5.1 are two very different fluids. 5 is silicone based but 5.1 is glycol based, like DOT 3 and 4 just a higher boiling point.

Valvoline synpower is fine, it's DOT 4 and it's cheap. no need to spend loads on brake parts and still fade the brakes because of crappy fluid. Z32 brakes will still transfer a good deal of heat to the fluid so it's still worth the upgrade.
Modified by cdlong at 3:09 PM 12/16/2005

[jr_ss]

Whatever, we are saying the same ****, don't use D0T 5. Who gives a fluck about Dot 5.1. Most common people don't know the difference betwen Dot 3 and 4. So all in all stay away from the Dot 5 silicone based fluids, use Dot 4 or 5.0 or whatever you want to call it. Otherwise your brake repair bill will be a large one.

[pr0digy1]

I bought it from ebay and it's called G2 paint. It's not cheap but it gives very nice and shiny finish and is supposed to last a lifetime since it's epoxy based.

here's another pic of the caliper

Hey pr0digy1,

Where did you get your caliper paint? What brand is it and what's the color's name? I'm also looking for caliper paint to paint my Z calipers that will soon be installed, but can't find much options at my local auto stores. Thanks!