Z22 Weber Jetting info; WHAT ARE YOU RUNNING?

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
burtandurny101
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:39 pm

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Hey all I thought it would be useful to get our jetting listed into one spot if you know what's in your Weber.

My rebuild kit is coming so I will post my jets/venturies/correctors' sizes in the next few days.
Currently running STUPID rich at idle to compensate for the oil being burned and bogging down the ignition (Size 70 jet on primary idle circuit). I have a size 60 on standby for when I fix/figure out the oil burning situation.

These carbs (DGV's) have 2 idle jets, 2 air correctors, 2 main jets, 2 emulsion tubes, and the accelerator pump jets or whatever they are called and venturis which are all tune-able components.

And if your really picky about it the needle and seat for the float is as well but really only if you wanted to run E85 or straight Alcohol........

SO, WHAT DO YOU HAVE IN YOUR WEBER?


burtandurny101
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:39 pm

Post

Here it is:
Z22 1982 720 no AC, RWD 5 spd manual transmission:
Weber DGAV (casting) but with an added electric choke (called DGEV).
Much to my surprise the jetting was ALMOST stock per Redlines baseline setting.
Aux Vent. 3.5/3.5
Main Jets 140/140
Emul. Tubes F50/F50
Air Correctors 170/160
Idle Jets 60/55
Acc Pump jet 50/X
Needle/Float Valve 2.00


And my rebuild kit included what I assume is a 1.75 Needle and Seat so I put that in there.

Does anybody know the difference between an F50 Emulsion Tube and and an F6 or an F66 Emulsion tube?
I have a number of "spare" jets in a Weber on a different truck with a blown engine. and it has an F66 that I could experiment with.

I know emulsion tubes are the "black magic" part of these carbs and ARE NOT numbered in terms of size. So maybe somebody with a book on em can clue me in.

LowFlying720
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:24 pm
Car: 85/86 Nissan 720

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I just installed a redline weber on my Z24. I'm dealing with some other issues right now that are clouding the process, mainly ignition timing but it seems to be running rich. I also removed the EGR tube and plugged both manifolds (I broke off the fitting on one end of it in the process of changing out the head gasket).

I bought this carburetor new so I'm assuming that it's got whatever the stock jetting is. It was listed as working on the Z24 engine.

Did you go with the stock air filter on that carburetor? I'm wondering if there are any aftermarket air filters that are bigger, that tiny little air filter that comes with the thing just doesn't get the job done.

Thanks

burtandurny101
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:39 pm

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As for the air filter..... I've never had a problem with that lil guy except the cheap clips rattle off and I tie it down with a shoelace... Zip ties could work too. I have run it without and with the air filter on, it makes no difference as long as the element is clean. a Taller element is available with the same footprint so its as simple as taking off the clips and putting the new one on.r

Do not even pretend to tune the carb until the timing is set, use the factory setting to start, and run through the ignition wires, plugs and test/replace the coils. Also inspect/replace the cap and rotor.

Check voltage across battery while running engine, bad electrical input = bad spark.

Other than that, webers tune themselves

Set idle speed screw to whatever it says in the instructions, i think its set to when it first makes contact with the throttle shaft

Set Mixture screw to three turns out (I would start at 2 1/2)

Start it up.

If you are completely convinced it is running rich and screing in the mixture screw des not help jet down a size

LowFlying720
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:24 pm
Car: 85/86 Nissan 720

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The timing is set. i'll check the voltage at the battery running, and check the coils.That's the only thing that I haven't done so far. It's got a new cap, rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires.

What is the best way to test the coils?

If that doesn't get it then I'll try those carburetors settings.

What it's doing right now is it's running fairly smooth at idle but the exhaust smells Rich, then when you come off of idle and try to accelerate or hold steady speed it stumbles and runs rough. Also when you shut it down it' diesels and spits back through the carburetor.

Thanks

LowFlying720
Posts: 34
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:24 pm
Car: 85/86 Nissan 720

Post

OK the problem with the rough running is solved. Turns out it was some sort of the wiring weirdness that killed one of my coils. Bizarre thing is that it was a groundwire in the carburetor wiring bundle that was killing my coil. I had just tied that bundle to the firewall thinking I didn't need any of that now that I have the Weber. Once that ground was hooked up everything came back and it runs normal now.

I set the idle mixture and idle speed correctly and so now it's running smoothly but,I'm still interested in exploring some jetting ideas for this carburetor because the engine doesn't seem to have as much power as it did with the stock carburetor from before I replaced the head gasket. The motor is a little bit worn at 155,000 miles and I'm not sure if my memory might be a little faulty or if my expectations were a little high for the Weber but I'd like to see if there is any carb tuning that I can do that might give me a little better performance. Subjectively it seems like the first tank of gas went pretty fast but I did kind of have a heavy foot a little bit :-)


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