Z Brakes: Has anyone done this?

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Repo Man
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AZhitman wrote:Something like Brady Dohrmann's S14 (the one from American Touge 2).... 275/40 r-comps on all 4 corners...
So, in your opinion, if I'm running a 235 or 245 Toyo RA-1, would the SPL setup be worth the extra money over the setup I proposed? I'm not familiar with Brady Dohrmann, his S14 or American Touge 2 so I don't really know how else his car is setup to take advantage of the extra braking power.

I may just start with the setup I proposed, get it on the track and identify any shortcomings that I can find. It's got to be a whole lot better than the stock s13 brakes...


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babowc
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meh..im running z32 front and back.fronts have axxis metalmasters on em and the rears are stock..

with stock BMC the pedal is SPONGY.its seriously like stepping on a sponge.. doesnt bother me too much though..

after everything was said and done, total came out for me to be around 100 bux..considering i had the calipers from the car i bought

isnt there an alternative to bigger rotors with the z32?i heard you can use Cobra rotors or 3kgtVR4 rotors...?

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Repo Man
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I'll solve the sponginess issue with a z32 bmc as I stated early on. I need to replace the bmc anyway, so I'll just use the larger one that matches up with the calipers which would take care of the sponginess.

And yes, both of those rotors would work with adapters.

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nismofly
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you dont need any more than regular old Z32 yet andy, first you need a setup capable of using them up which i dont think you have yet, second you want to learn to deal with failing brakes once you have a setup that will be able to use up z32's, after a little time at this stage you go to something with bigger calipers as well as rotors
AZhitman wrote:Something like Brady Dohrmann's S14 (the one from American Touge 2).... 275/40 r-comps on all 4 corners...
who happens to be running the brembos like i mentioned, the DSG s13 also runs the brembos...i think the only really quick TA 240 in this country not running a set of oem brembos is the jic/hankook s15, which has front and rear stoptech kits iirc

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Repo Man
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nismofly wrote:you dont need any more than regular old Z32 yet andy, first you need a setup capable of using them up which i dont think you have yet, second you want to learn to deal with failing brakes once you have a setup that will be able to use up z32's, after a little time at this stage you go to something with bigger calipers as well as rotors
repo man wrote:I may just start with the setup I proposed, get it on the track and identify any shortcomings that I can find. It's got to be a whole lot better than the stock s13 brakes...

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AmoebAssassin
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Just FYI, the orange Brembos that you all seem to be raving about are only Brembos in name alone. Brembo was involved in the design work, but the manufacturing and componentry is outsourced to cheaper Asian manufacturers. Physically, the Brembos appear more similar to the R32 and R33 non-Brembo calipers than they do to the higher end genuine Brembo calipers.

What this means is that while the design is sufficient, the castings and material qualities are probably on par with what you see on Z32 AL or Fe calipers, which are also Sumitomo mass produced.

Not only is the casting probably poorer as compared to Wilwood, Baer, genuine Brembo, and other tried and tested packages, but lots of other corners are probably cut as well, for production cost and economy of scale. Think about how many units of these brakes need to be produced yearly - the focus clearly shifts to ease and cost of manufacture and not final quality or design efficiency. I mean, just look at the surface coating on the orange Brembos. Almost every Z or G I've seen tracked exhibits flaking and heat discoloration, and the OLDEST these cars could possibly be is on the order of four or five years (2003 350Z Track model). If they're skimping on things as low down the ladder as paint, imagine what else they found it necessary to skimp on. By the way, the fact that the paint does not hold up to track temperatures should be satisfactory evidence to the intended design arena of the orange Brembos.

You all seem to be expecting these Sumitomo/Brembo calipers to be the end-all-be-all of S-chassis braking, but what you're really finding is just another more expensive OEM upgrade, for only slightly higher quality. ****, if you need the massive rotors, you're economically better off going with Z32 calipers and VR4, Cobra, or Z track rotors.

The argument that you can have a "whole" Brembo package for 1400 is irrelevant. Rear brakes are not a selling point for any well-raced car. If you're a good enough driver to be approaching your max lateral acceleration on a racetrack, you'll be transferring enough load forward and outboard under trail braking and turn in that overpowering your rear brakes with those designed for a 3300lb car will probably lead to a sketchy rear end under braking. You'd be surprised how little rear braking is required in a track environment. For reference, our formula cars have been biased forward about 74-80% in our more recent designs. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the pressure proportioning on a Z32 master cylinder is vaguely similar, but don't quote me on this.

With a Z32 setup, I'd stick with a S chassis rear end. With a Brembo setup, I'd move up to a Z32 rear setup. These are good starting points. If you feel like this yields an undesirable balance under braking on a track, then you'll know how to size your setup to rid yourself of the undesirable condition. Sadly, on a street car, adjusting brake bias is more involved than turning the adjustment on a brake balance bar.

Finally, I find it hypocritical that you're telling the OP not to cut any corners with his Z32 setup, but then tell him to effectively cut corners with an overweight, generic "Brembo" design as opposed to a researched, well designed, and competitively successful brake manufacturer.

When I have the money and need, I'm going Brembo, Baer, or Wilwood.
Modified by AmoebAssassin at 9:45 AM 3/17/2007

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thenillaz
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AmoebAssassin wrote:With a Z32 setup, I'd stick with a S chassis rear end. With a Brembo setup, I'd move up to a Z32 rear setup. These are good starting points. If you feel like this yields an undesirable balance under braking on a track, then you'll know how to size your setup to rid yourself of the undesirable condition. Sadly, on a street car, adjusting brake bias is more involved than turning the adjustment on a brake balance bar.
ZOMG! Thanks for shedding some light on the function/form aspect. I try to keep in mind that with cars, too much of anything is bad, and the rear brake perspective you brought to the conversation proves my thought process.

After thinking about what you have to say in the quote, I have a question. I'd much rather do a Z32 setup all around, but I respect your point in that the bias should be more towards the front for a "good starting point"(in this case, Z32 front, stock rear). So, how much more involved is adjusting brake bias on a street car? Can you link me a good source of information on this subject?

Thanks.

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With vacuum assisted single master cylinder designs (that virtually every street car has), there is no brake balance bar or adjustable rate proportioning device that you can tinker with to change your balance easily. There are, however, a number of ways to do it, some more involved than others.

1) Run different pad compounds. Yes, it's ghetto and yes, you will have to pay attention to your brakes because different pads will wear at different rates. If you have too much front bias, run grippier pads int he back or softer pads in the front. If you have too much rear bias, run softer pads in the back or grippier pads in the front.

2) Change your rotor diameter. This involves lots of high-stress bracketing and is usually considered a giant pain in the *** for the home-brew tuner. A larger rotor will increase your braking torque - for more rear bias, increase the rear rotor size or decrease the front rotor size. For more front bias, increase the front rotor size or decrease the rear rotor size.

An easier way to do this would just be to swap setups. S13s, Z32s, and Z33s have progressively increasing rotor diameters and the hardware is interchangeable - figure out which would work well for you and just change to that setup entirely.

3) Play with piston sizes to change your piston pressure area and thus your hydraulic force. This is nearly impossible for anyone without a mill and knowledge of machine tool use. Increasing your piston size will increase the surface area of the piston and thus the force that your brake hydraulics will apply to the pad for a constant line pressure. This requires a mill (for boring out the piston recesses in the caliper and cutting new o-ring grooves) and a lathe (for turning a larger pistons). If you want more front bias, increase the front piston size or decrease rear piston size. If you want more rear bias, increase the rear piston size or decrease the front piston size.

I'm sure there's other ways to go about changing your brake bias that I've missed.

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Why is AA not a Moderator in Wheel / Tire / Suspension?

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AZhitman wrote:Why is AA not a Moderator in Wheel / Tire / Suspension?

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AZhitman wrote:Why is AA not a Moderator in Wheel / Tire / Suspension?
Done deal boss.

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Ok, I've got my flame suit on so here goes.

Clearly, heavier vehicles or ones made for track use or super high speeds need big breaks. If money was no object I'd get them, but I'm thinking that for your typical road toy 240, the stock breaks with some drilled rotors and Hawk pads will do just fine.

I know they are small and other breaks are much better - I don't dispute that. I'm just thinking that for 99% of driving conditions one will encounter on the street the afformentioned upgrades will suffice. The other 1% of the time I'll have to be extra carefull.

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Mine is going to see a good deal of WOT track time...

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AmoebAssassin
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I've faded stock brakes on the street -- that's why I initially did my Z32 brake swap.

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AmoebAssassin wrote:I've faded stock brakes on the street -- that's why I initially did my Z32 brake swap.

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nismofly
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occasionally some of us drive on real roads and have to use the middle pedal Andy

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Eddie
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I have rebuilt junkyard N/A z32 breaks with spl lines all around, motul fluid, O.E. : pads, rotors, s14 mc. The pedal isn't spongy with the stock s14mc. Initially I could feel the difference in handling due to the extra unsprung weight, but it's not a big issue. I also had to get used to change in brake balance because they would lock up so easy. I have had them over 3 years with no problems.

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repo man wrote:
Hey hey don't you judge me!

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AmoebAssassin wrote:
Hey hey don't you judge me!
Hell, I'm not judging! I'm just jealous!


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