Your external wastegate

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
encasemyheart
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Well, I'm picking up the Tial external gate for my setup, the 35mm, but I'm wondering about sound.

When the wastegate is active how loud is it? I'm talking about not plumbed into the exhaust, which I assume most of you don't do. I remember my DSM had a dump pipe and it sounded like the world was coming to an end, is this the same way? Or do most of you plumb it into the exhaust for a quieter noise?

Off topic: Will adding a fuel pump N/A cause any problems? I'm planning on installing all I can so when the turbo is ready to be installed I already have the whole fuel setup (pump, injectors, SAFC so all I have to do is install turbo, I/C, manifold, oil lines downpipe etc)


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JJ240
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Tial 35mm doesnt seem too loud. but then again I have nothing else to compare it to ::shrugs::

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C-Kwik
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encasemyheart wrote:Well, I'm picking up the Tial external gate for my setup, the 35mm, but I'm wondering about sound.

When the wastegate is active how loud is it? I'm talking about not plumbed into the exhaust, which I assume most of you don't do. I remember my DSM had a dump pipe and it sounded like the world was coming to an end, is this the same way? Or do most of you plumb it into the exhaust for a quieter noise?

Off topic: Will adding a fuel pump N/A cause any problems? I'm planning on installing all I can so when the turbo is ready to be installed I already have the whole fuel setup (pump, injectors, SAFC so all I have to do is install turbo, I/C, manifold, oil lines downpipe etc)


My XS kit came with a divorced WG set-up. T wasn't the loudness that bothered me as much as the way it sounded. Sounded like crap. Plumbed it into the downpipe to get rid of the noise. But the noise didn't have as much to do with the WG as it will with the fact that it was divorced. Plumb it back in and chances are, you'll never hear when the wastegate opens.

encasemyheart
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thanks for the help.

So how much work is plumbing it? I'm planning on getting a muffler shop to weld together a flex section/flange/piping to make my downpipe, how hard would it be for them to route the wastegate into the downpipe?

Also do you hear the sound anytime you are at full boost and the wastegate is open?

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C-Kwik
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Well, since mine came as a kit, I only needed a small section of piping. Most of it was already there. I just had a muffler shop extend the vent tube and route it back in. It is a good idea to use a flex joint. But mine seems to be holding up fine without it.

encasemyheart
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Yeah I know it can be done without a flex, but it puts alot less strain on the turbo housing, which when combined with the excessive heat over and over again can lead to failure. I just wish they weren't so expensive...

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WDRacing
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I have a HKS external gate, externally vented on my Skyline. I love the sound....

syka24et
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I have a deltagate on my integra it sucks sound, quality everything I was going to swap it out for a tial but i just don't care about the car anymore probably becuase of this new project I have.

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C-Kwik
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encasemyheart wrote:Yeah I know it can be done without a flex, but it puts alot less strain on the turbo housing, which when combined with the excessive heat over and over again can lead to failure. I just wish they weren't so expensive...


They aren't very expensive...

http://www.roadraceengineering...s.htm

encasemyheart
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C-Kwik wrote:They aren't very expensive...

http://www.roadraceengineering...s.htm


Yeah roadrace is awesome, that's where I bought most of my DSM parts. It's also where I'm getting my Tial, flanges, intercooler, flex section etc. They are great to work with.

What I'm planning to do is to roughly set the turbo/manifold/intercooler in, and then find out the bends of pipes I need to buy, buying them and connecting with silicon couplings.

This will solve all piping problems for the intake, intercooler up to the throttle body. Hopefully I can just buy the flanges/flex piping and have the exhaust shop weld them together and have my car running as soon as that's on. What do you think?

FrEaK
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Your wastegate question seems to have been answered..

About getting a new fuel pump, it will not impact your N/A applications as long as you make sure you have a new, or excellent condition FPR (fuel pressure regulator), if you have a worn fpr it may cause injectors to blow out without notice because of the increased pump pressure...

all in all, it shouldn't make a difference except a little bit more pump noise, and lots of available fuel... :)

silviaNE
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Do not install the larger injectors or upgrade the ecu till the you are going to turbo the car. Assuming you are not going to use a piggy back. If you are going to use a piggy back, you can install it now, just not the larger injectors, do you plann on using 370s? If you are interested in the tial 35mm wastegate, spend the extra 20-35 bucks for the hp model that uses the 40mm guts. Its worth the extra money once you start cranking the boost. I have a tubular manifold with a t4 and external wastegate(tial 35hp) i have it externally vented, but i built a small pipe to have it exit out of the side of my bumper. It is not as loud as it was at first. Just no sence in venting all that exhaustr gas under your hood. Just my op.

FrEaK
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I'd guess by not venting it all underneath your hood your in some ways keeping the engine bay cooler...

This perhaps may be something to think about especially when going turbo.

Make sure everything is either heat wrapped or very vented with lots of air cooling...

encasemyheart
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The 35mm HP is almost $100 more than regular @ $310, so if I'm gonna do that I might as well spend the extra to get the full 40mm wastegate @ $350.

I'm going for 400whp @ 20psi, which I think is entirely possible. Assuming that the nsport gets 240whp @ 7psi(?) with a smaller turbo than I am using. What wastegate would be best for this application? I NEVER want to worry about boost creep.

encasemyheart
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FrEaK wrote:I'd guess by not venting it all underneath your hood your in some ways keeping the engine bay cooler...

This perhaps may be something to think about especially when going turbo.

Make sure everything is either heat wrapped or very vented with lots of air cooling...


Well I wasn't really planning on an underhood vent, but more a dump pipe going under the car exiting straight down. This or downpipe routing, but this would help boost creep alot.

FrEaK
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I'm not refering to that vent, as much as a vent for better airflow around your turbo and hotter parts...

The heat produced by turbos have been known to strip the paint off the hood from excess heat... wires have been known to burn from turbo heat... it's a precautionary measure that cant really hurt...

encasemyheart
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ahhh...gotcha

I remember my mechanic was telling me about one car that always had paint peeling problems on the hood because of the factory placement of the turbo. IIRC it was some 80's import.

The turbo itself can get hotter than the exhaust manifold!! Better cooling is definately a concern for longevity.

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C-Kwik
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silviaNE wrote:Do not install the larger injectors or upgrade the ecu till the you are going to turbo the car. Assuming you are not going to use a piggy back. If you are going to use a piggy back, you can install it now, just not the larger injectors, do you plann on using 370s?


Why Not? I know someone who is running a JWT Turbo program with larger injectors and has been for some time. He hasn't put on his turbo yet. No problems what-so-ever.

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C-Kwik
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FrEaK wrote:I'm not refering to that vent, as much as a vent for better airflow around your turbo and hotter parts...

The heat produced by turbos have been known to strip the paint off the hood from excess heat... wires have been known to burn from turbo heat... it's a precautionary measure that cant really hurt...


The heat from mine made the underhood lining right above the turbo go soft. I ended up cutting that section out and put in some thermal refective lining there. Heat will likely affect the hood liner if you run a topmount turbo. SCC magazine also had issues with the wiper fluid lines. Lucky for me Hose Techniques prototyped their kit for the S14 on my car and the silicone lines withstand heat much better than rubber.

silviaNE
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Just look around. I have seen tial hp35mm for $250 brand new. You need to do some searching.

FrEaK
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C-Kwik, it doesn't surprise me....

ADAM had wires to hi boost controller melt, it made the boost controlled think he wasn't recieving anymore boost so it cranked it up... needledd to say he went from about 14 psi to 24 or 27 psi during a race, and blew a gasket...

Cooling is more important then people think, hell i'm not even going to buy a hood ;)

encasemyheart
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FrEaK wrote:Cooling is more important then people think, hell i'm not even going to buy a hood ;)


Instead of just not buying a hood, why don't you do the 'Hood Removal Mod'?

It's pretty simple, someone should make a FAQ about it, the cooling gains can't be beat, and when it's raining/snowing that's just more cooling!! :eek:

;)

silviaNE
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have you been watching redgreen? I used to have a crx with a greddy turbo kit in chicago. I would drive around most of the summer with no hood. As long as you have a safe place to park. The intimidation factor was great. Nothing like rolling down lake shore drive and looking over the winshield and seeing your motor flex.

FrEaK
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LOL

Your brave... I might do that if i only raced the car, but seeing as i drive it, park it, and it sits for a couple hours in a parking lot, nahhh i think i'll just stick wit the hood...


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