your 8 step program to your RB25 starting
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RubHamuSan
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2003 12:11 pm
I've got the S14 manual... the wiring diagrams could be better... more like the S13 diagrams.
But where did you get an RB wiring diagram? I have info on the S14 part of the wiring if you have questions and don't get the manual in time.
Btw, my R32 clip is arriving tomorrow. We'll see if they can drop it into my garage or if they'll leave it in the street. Apparently a liftgate does not insure that they'll actually get it into your driveway....
Shane
But where did you get an RB wiring diagram? I have info on the S14 part of the wiring if you have questions and don't get the manual in time.
Btw, my R32 clip is arriving tomorrow. We'll see if they can drop it into my garage or if they'll leave it in the street. Apparently a liftgate does not insure that they'll actually get it into your driveway....
Shane
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tapdeznutz
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 8:09 pm
- Contact:
so, does this 8 step actually work for the 89? i got to step 3 and noticed that the colors are a little different than the ones in the wright up. what else is different?
Ryan
or how about this: tell me where to get the pinnouts and diagram for the RB25, and i will do the rest. i will use the RB engine harness, conect that to the RB ECU, then for the instruments and all that, splise into the KA interior harness and that should be all right.?)
or even better thsn that, just tell me what it is we are conecting in this guide. i can figure it out from there. please dudes. i need help here!!!!!
Ryan
or how about this: tell me where to get the pinnouts and diagram for the RB25, and i will do the rest. i will use the RB engine harness, conect that to the RB ECU, then for the instruments and all that, splise into the KA interior harness and that should be all right.?)
or even better thsn that, just tell me what it is we are conecting in this guide. i can figure it out from there. please dudes. i need help here!!!!!
FOR ALL SERIES 2 RB25 SWAPS
OMIT THE GREY WIRE PART OF STEP 4. THERE IS NO GREY WIRE IN YOUR HARNESS. THAT IS ONLY FOR THE SERIES 1. IT IS AN EXTERNAL POWER FOR THE INJECTORS.
FOR 89-90 SWAPS
EXERYTHING IS THE SAME, ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE BROWN CONECTOR UNDER THE PASSENGER-SIDE DASH IS WHITE.
HOPE THAT HELPS SOME
Ryan
OMIT THE GREY WIRE PART OF STEP 4. THERE IS NO GREY WIRE IN YOUR HARNESS. THAT IS ONLY FOR THE SERIES 1. IT IS AN EXTERNAL POWER FOR THE INJECTORS.
FOR 89-90 SWAPS
EXERYTHING IS THE SAME, ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE BROWN CONECTOR UNDER THE PASSENGER-SIDE DASH IS WHITE.
HOPE THAT HELPS SOME
Ryan
rcodea wrote:FOR ALL SERIES 2 RB25 SWAPS
OMIT THE GREY WIRE PART OF STEP 4. THERE IS NO GREY WIRE IN YOUR HARNESS. THAT IS ONLY FOR THE SERIES 1. IT IS AN EXTERNAL POWER FOR THE INJECTORS.
FOR 89-90 SWAPS
EXERYTHING IS THE SAME, ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE BROWN CONECTOR UNDER THE PASSENGER-SIDE DASH IS WHITE.
HOPE THAT HELPS SOME
Ryan
To late for me... Already sent it off to be wired by a pro... Maybe someone should cover other years and series of engines as they all vary... Just a thought. No flaming please...
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opensource
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2003 10:58 pm
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accordscantdrift
- Posts: 90
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 9:47 am
I've got everything except the oil light. i'm still working on that. It's a yellow and white wire from the R33 cluster I just have to find a better diagram to see where they run it out.
also the speedo is off by a bit, but i'm pretty sure an 18 tooth speedo pinion will bring it right about to the correct speed.
my series 2 RB25 also do not have a red wire for the ignition relay so ignore that part of the step also.
also the speedo is off by a bit, but i'm pretty sure an 18 tooth speedo pinion will bring it right about to the correct speed.
my series 2 RB25 also do not have a red wire for the ignition relay so ignore that part of the step also.
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NightKids2
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Mon Oct 18, 2004 5:25 pm
Re: (theXfiend)
Can someone please re-upload these images.
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Slo_240sx
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2004 3:43 pm
- Car: Mean Green LS1 S13. Caged and Backhalfed.
Re: (NightKids2)
I decided to add this write up since I can't it stickied in another thread. its for prepping the KA lower harness to work with the RB.
I thought it would be a good idea that while I had my motor on the ground I would do a write up of what needs to be done to the KA lower harness to make it fit onto the RB.
Jonpowell is a firm believer in this and you can duke it out with him if you think you should use the RB harness.
Series II RB25DET S13, all S13s should be the same. Do this at your own risk!!! I will not be responsible for your mistakes and this is based on my knowledge and experience with my RB.
WARNING: do this at your own risk!! i am not responsible for *Jack* bla bla, you know how it goes. Now this guide is only for those that know basic engine wiring, have some clue so far on what is going one but just need to know the specifics to get it started. Thanks OpenSource...
Also included I will should you how to properly splice wires. Don't use gay splice/butt connectors they will only cause you pain in the long run and I will flame you. Spend the time and a little bit for materials and I promise all will go well and you will be glad you listened to me!
Now on with the show...
Prepping that Lower KA harness for your RB
1) Take off both harnesses from the KA and your RB motor
2) From your RB Harness cut off the Oil Pressure sending unit plug, it has two wires - YLW/WHT and B and it is located right next to the oil filter.
Now You are going to want to cut atleast this much off because it has to be slightly extended.
The Yellow with white wire is for the oil light and the blue wire is for the oil gauge. The stock Ka cluster doesn't have a oil gauge so the blue wire won't be used. If you are using the RB gauge cluster than you want to be using this blue wire and are going to have to hard wire it to the cluster. If you are using the stock cluster than cut the blue wire, or leave a pig tail on it if you plan to use a oil pressure gauge because thats what its going to be hooked up to.
2 Wire RB Oil Pressure sending unit plug
1 Wire Ka Oil Pressure sending unit plug
Now here is how to PROPERLY splice wires:
Cut off about half an ince of insulation throw shrink wrap on and fan the wires out. Alot of people use adhesive shrink tubing for insulation to keep moisture out of your connection. It is HIGHLY recommended. You'll forget to put shrink wrap on a couple of times until you get used to it ;-)
Now intertwine the fans and close them like so:
Now twist the wires opposit of each other. 1 clockwise the other counter clockwise. When that is done it should look like this:
Now *Solder* it in place don't go over board with it, lightly cover it and it WILL hold. Once again adhesive shrink tube helps. LET IT COOL DOWN! If you pull the shrink wrap over it you know what happens... you get to do it over. Let it cool then pull the shrink wrap over and heat that sucker up so it tightens.... don't burn it.
End Product: Its Perfect!
3) The output wire from the alternator on the KA has a slightly smaller hole to fit over the stud of the RB harness. Ream out the hole from the KA harness to the RB alternator. I just used a dremel.
Rb compared to KA
here it is reamed:
4) From your Rb harness unravel the looming and take out the knock sensor harness. The main plug is at the front of the intake. its the Lower Plug of the 2. I made my harness pretty - loomed and taped it. I suggest you do the same because its more protection than anything else.
Lower plug for Knock sensors
Here what is should look like unravled and separated:
5) With the main plug in bring the harness back and plug in the 2 knock sensors and the one sensor hiding under the intake.
Tape it in place and you are set for that part of the harness.
6) Run The wires back off the lower harness to the back of the transmission and all of these should plug right in except for the Vehicle speed sensor.
You are going to have to use the RB25DET speed sensor with the Rb25DET trans. The RB20 is the same as the KA but they differ from the 25. The 25 is about 2 inches longer than the KA speed sensor so it won't work.
Plus, the KA speed sensor has a long harness attached to it with the plug located at the back of the motor while the 25 SS is a short plug having the RB harness run to the back of the motor.
Here is the RB compared to the KA:
You can obviously tell the difference. Resort? extend the KA plug all the way back. The VSS plugs are both the same. Instead of using the KA plug I unwrapped the RB plug and cut the pig tail to the length I needed so I didn't have to make 4 splices instead of two. Use that brain of yours!
Heres the plug that won't reach for the VSS:
And here is the RB VSS in the transmission:
Now this is up to you. The Starter solenoid connection from the KA to the RB doesn't quite fit on the spade connector right. You can swap you RB plug onto it or leave your stock KA on it. It will fall off eventually and may even become a bigger problem later on. My suggestion is change it over.
Heres what that plug looks like Rb compared to KA:
7) Plug everything in - Alternator, Starter, speed sensor, other misc trans sensors, knock sensor harness, oil pressure sending unit etc.
8)Tape and zip tie it all in place and make sure your connections are good.
You are all done wasn't that easy!?
FREAKING DONEReverse lights workSpeedo worksAlternator worksStarter worksDONE!
This is SOOOO Easy that there is no extra step for a beer break!-Alex
I thought it would be a good idea that while I had my motor on the ground I would do a write up of what needs to be done to the KA lower harness to make it fit onto the RB.
Jonpowell is a firm believer in this and you can duke it out with him if you think you should use the RB harness.
Series II RB25DET S13, all S13s should be the same. Do this at your own risk!!! I will not be responsible for your mistakes and this is based on my knowledge and experience with my RB.
WARNING: do this at your own risk!! i am not responsible for *Jack* bla bla, you know how it goes. Now this guide is only for those that know basic engine wiring, have some clue so far on what is going one but just need to know the specifics to get it started. Thanks OpenSource...
Also included I will should you how to properly splice wires. Don't use gay splice/butt connectors they will only cause you pain in the long run and I will flame you. Spend the time and a little bit for materials and I promise all will go well and you will be glad you listened to me!
Now on with the show...
Prepping that Lower KA harness for your RB
1) Take off both harnesses from the KA and your RB motor
2) From your RB Harness cut off the Oil Pressure sending unit plug, it has two wires - YLW/WHT and B and it is located right next to the oil filter.
Now You are going to want to cut atleast this much off because it has to be slightly extended.
The Yellow with white wire is for the oil light and the blue wire is for the oil gauge. The stock Ka cluster doesn't have a oil gauge so the blue wire won't be used. If you are using the RB gauge cluster than you want to be using this blue wire and are going to have to hard wire it to the cluster. If you are using the stock cluster than cut the blue wire, or leave a pig tail on it if you plan to use a oil pressure gauge because thats what its going to be hooked up to.
2 Wire RB Oil Pressure sending unit plug
1 Wire Ka Oil Pressure sending unit plug
Now here is how to PROPERLY splice wires:
Cut off about half an ince of insulation throw shrink wrap on and fan the wires out. Alot of people use adhesive shrink tubing for insulation to keep moisture out of your connection. It is HIGHLY recommended. You'll forget to put shrink wrap on a couple of times until you get used to it ;-)
Now intertwine the fans and close them like so:
Now twist the wires opposit of each other. 1 clockwise the other counter clockwise. When that is done it should look like this:
Now *Solder* it in place don't go over board with it, lightly cover it and it WILL hold. Once again adhesive shrink tube helps. LET IT COOL DOWN! If you pull the shrink wrap over it you know what happens... you get to do it over. Let it cool then pull the shrink wrap over and heat that sucker up so it tightens.... don't burn it.
End Product: Its Perfect!
3) The output wire from the alternator on the KA has a slightly smaller hole to fit over the stud of the RB harness. Ream out the hole from the KA harness to the RB alternator. I just used a dremel.
Rb compared to KA
here it is reamed:
4) From your Rb harness unravel the looming and take out the knock sensor harness. The main plug is at the front of the intake. its the Lower Plug of the 2. I made my harness pretty - loomed and taped it. I suggest you do the same because its more protection than anything else.
Lower plug for Knock sensors
Here what is should look like unravled and separated:
5) With the main plug in bring the harness back and plug in the 2 knock sensors and the one sensor hiding under the intake.
Tape it in place and you are set for that part of the harness.
6) Run The wires back off the lower harness to the back of the transmission and all of these should plug right in except for the Vehicle speed sensor.
You are going to have to use the RB25DET speed sensor with the Rb25DET trans. The RB20 is the same as the KA but they differ from the 25. The 25 is about 2 inches longer than the KA speed sensor so it won't work.
Plus, the KA speed sensor has a long harness attached to it with the plug located at the back of the motor while the 25 SS is a short plug having the RB harness run to the back of the motor.
Here is the RB compared to the KA:
You can obviously tell the difference. Resort? extend the KA plug all the way back. The VSS plugs are both the same. Instead of using the KA plug I unwrapped the RB plug and cut the pig tail to the length I needed so I didn't have to make 4 splices instead of two. Use that brain of yours!
Heres the plug that won't reach for the VSS:
And here is the RB VSS in the transmission:
Now this is up to you. The Starter solenoid connection from the KA to the RB doesn't quite fit on the spade connector right. You can swap you RB plug onto it or leave your stock KA on it. It will fall off eventually and may even become a bigger problem later on. My suggestion is change it over.
Heres what that plug looks like Rb compared to KA:
7) Plug everything in - Alternator, Starter, speed sensor, other misc trans sensors, knock sensor harness, oil pressure sending unit etc.
8)Tape and zip tie it all in place and make sure your connections are good.
You are all done wasn't that easy!?
FREAKING DONEReverse lights workSpeedo worksAlternator worksStarter worksDONE!
This is SOOOO Easy that there is no extra step for a beer break!-Alex
Re: (JonPowell)
now linked in the 1 sticky at the top, along with the other formerly stickied threads.JonPowell wrote:unstuck?
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southern clown
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 10:02 am
- Car: 1989 240sx
Re: (Kamin)
no!!!! Missing Images......BAD........NEED MORE.......RB not working...........need to bring to life............arrrrggghhhhhhh!!!!!!111eleven!!!!!!!!1
Can anybody re-do the images of the wiring? I'd be glad to host if space is needed...email me [email protected]
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backsidethree
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:29 am
- Car: rb25det 240sx
Re: (240sxed)
If you copy and paste the directions onto ms word the pictures will show up.
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s13_rb25det
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 12:49 am
- Car: s13
Re: (backsidethree)
just did that and it doesnt workbacksidethree wrote:If you copy and paste the directions onto ms word the pictures will show up.
Re: (s13_rb25det)
yeah, can someone rehost these? or when i do my swap im goign to be making alot of "where does this plug/wire go" posts, lol