DiamondWVU wrote:Yeah I'd go for the 30 offset so you don't have to get spacers. Mine are a 30 offset and it sits pretty flush
If only it were that easy...yutubemedia wrote:Sorry, No Idea what offset means even though I googled it, BUt I will tell my installers to do a 30 offset, Thanks!
Oh I didnt even Know YOu could adjust the rrim bars within the rim towards the inner or outer, I thought they were set solid in place like welded together.DJBeasy wrote:If only it were that easy...yutubemedia wrote:Sorry, No Idea what offset means even though I googled it, BUt I will tell my installers to do a 30 offset, Thanks!
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/tec ... techid=101
PS: Im still not convinced you arent doing some kind of market research on here...
They are set in place but they can be set in place differently which is where offset comes into play.yutubemedia wrote:Oh I didnt even Know YOu could adjust the rrim bars within the rim towards the inner or outer, I thought they were set solid in place like welded together.
Oh okay, So When I order them the manufacturer can add a 30MM offset to move the rim bars towards the outside of the rim, like towards the street where you would stand in front of them.audtatious wrote:They are set in place but they can be set in place differently which is where offset comes into play.yutubemedia wrote:Oh I didnt even Know YOu could adjust the rrim bars within the rim towards the inner or outer, I thought they were set solid in place like welded together.
Here's another review: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/wheel-tech.html
AlexM. wrote:Someone needs a crash course in wheel fitment!
When you pick the offset from the wheel manufacturer, it affects how in or out the face of the wheel ( this thing you're referring to: "think the actual rims part, thats black, is to far inside the rims, like its not near the outside its in the middle. but yeah" ) sits.
A 30 mm offset will make the face of the wheel sit closer to the hub mounting surface , and make the entire wheel sit further out towards the fender. A 38 mm will make the face of the wheel sit farther away from the hub mounting surface, meaning the wheel will be more "sunk" in to the wheel well.
Let's say you get a 38 mm wheel and think it looks too "sunk", you can buy a 10mm spacer which will push the wheel out 10mm, bringing you close to the original 30mm that you could have gone with.
The downside of using spacers vs picking the correct offset is that if you pick the correct offset you get more of a lip since there is an actual additional 8mm of material being used, while if you use a spacer the wheel will just be more flush to the fender without the additional lip.
DiamondWVU wrote:Yes. 30mm offset should be flush. if you get the 38 they will be 8mm sunkin in.
AlexM. wrote:I understand your confusion. Imagine this is the wheel with a 38 mm offset: [ | ] The straight line is the face / black part of the wheel. In an extreme case of a low offset, the face of the wheel would sit very far towards the inside of the wheel like this: [| ] So instead of the face of the wheel connecting to your hub from the middle of the wheel, the face of the wheel is pushed in (not the whole wheel, just the face). The deeper the face of the wheel is, the more the wheel sticks out because the car is connected to the wheel at an earlier point. A 38 mm offset means the wheel connects to your car 38mm from the middle of the wheel. A 30mm offet means the wheel connects to your car 30 mm from the middle of the wheel. The closer your car connects to the middle of the wheel, the farther out your wheel will be.
If you don't want the actual face of the wheel to be sunk in then pick a higher offset. But this will cause the entire wheel to be more sunk into your fender, which is not good or bad. All about taste.