Yikes! Rear frame damage :(

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zs_s13
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 12:57 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX SE Hatchback

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I've been working on my 240sx lately and I just recently got to get up underneath the car. Once under there, I found some frame damage. I'm not too sure if it'll be an issue or not since it's going to be my second vehicle, non daily driver. Here's some pictures:

Image

Image

Any advice would be appreciated!


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AZhitman
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Hard to really gauge the deformity and severity from pics. A quick vid clip would help give a good 3D representation.

I'd be more concerned about the corrosion. Was the car hit in the rear or side, or does it look like it was just bottomed out?

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WDRacing
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Agreed, that corrosion is gonna get you. Are there rust holes in the frame? I've seen cars go 10's of thousands of miles with the frame rails crushed from improper jacking. Holes from corrosion though, that will only get worse and eventually you'll have a very weak spot.

How does the car track? Does it drive straight? If so I'd worry about getting that rust stopped.

This stuff works really well on rust and leaves the surface ready for paint.

WD

zs_s13
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 12:57 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX SE Hatchback

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Here's the link to the YouTube video of the car's driver's side frame. I don't know if the car drives straight, it's still technically a shell. I'm in the process of pulling the old SOHC KA

https://youtu.be/VSSnWfMUlt4

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AZhitman
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
Contact:

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OK, that helps some, but not a lot.

Here's the thing: That c-channel you're calling a "frame" isn't really - a 240 is a unibody car (which I'm sure you know).

I can see a lot of damage there, probably from some moron jacking it up wrong - but that alone isn't enough reason to walk away.

What you're really looking for is deformation of the floor pan and the suspension mounting points, as well as damage to the rear control arms. If nothing there is damaged (was the car hit?), then you could be OK, and unless the rust is perforating, it's workable.

The corrosion, still, is nasty. I wouldn't put ANY money into a car with rust. There are plenty of clean rust-free shells out there, and you'll be glad you did.

zs_s13
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 12:57 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX SE Hatchback

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Yeah, it's kind of difficult to find a good shell around here. Every kid in Dallas likes to sell things with a drift tax. The rust looks fixable, I was just more or less worried about the frame. I knew the 240s were unibody, I just didn't know if that would be reason to partout and try again with something else, but as far as I know, the car has never been hit. Has a few small dents here and there but nothing terrible.

Guess I just need to get it on a lift and start working on the rust. Thanks for your help!

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Lobo240sx
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That rust is from the salt they put down when it's snowing in Dallas. That looks like a lot of torch cutting and welding... You can try to sand blast but that is a shell to drift with. I'd see if you can find another rolling shell on the cheap and take what's good on this one.


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