Yet another Pathfinder Intake Timing Sensor (P1140)

[MikePathfinder2001]

Ok, ordered the part from Pinnacle. I should get it in about a week because I ordered on a friday. Boy at those prices, I should have ordered 2 and changed the other sensor as well.

So far, I had 2 02 sensors go on me (both the rear banks). I finally got the damn SES light to go out and then BAM!! Within a week I get another code and yet another sensor problem. I am curious what sensor will go next. I wonder if any of this is related because I see a lot of people with the same problem. Anyway, thanks for the help!!

Mike

I will let ya know how the instalation goes.

[NISTECH]

Read the sticky thread on pathfinder FAQ . There is a list of known incidents with details. Good read. Did you get the ECM reprogramed when you did the rear O2's? If not you could face them buring up again. The reprogram is to stage the heat on them during warm up. The problem was the intense heat coming on while they still had condensation on them was cuasing them to over heat and melt down the heater element in them.

[MikePathfinder2001]

Yes, I did. I took it in after I changed the 1st sensor and they reprogrammed the ECM for me (free of charge). Then the light came on again and I had to replace the second one.

agian, thanks for the info and I will be sure to read the sticky.

Mike

[MikePathfinder2001]

Ok, here is an update.

1 Got the sensor.2. took old sensor out3. put new sensor in

4. I acidentally cross threaded the bolt and broke off the hex head.

5, Carefull took out the new sensor.

6. Now I have about a centimeter portion of the bolt sticking out.

I tried to get a hold of it with needle nose vice grips, but They keep slipping.

I am so embarressed, it is unbelievable. There are no words to explain how dumb I am. I wasn't patient and I should have known better.

Any ideas of how I can get it out of there?

Mike

[xdothedew]

Wow.. my 01 Pathy LE just turned 50k miles and the P1140 code popped up. Luckily I had my scanner and expertise from this forum to replace the faulty part. Thanks! I wonder if Nissan is doing this on purpose to get more money from us.. a year ago, we had to replace all of the coil packs to stop the engine shaking.. maybe Toyota will be my next car.

[NISTECH]

going toyota wont resolve problems like this. The automotive industry its becoming so competitive every manufacturer is looking to cut assembly costs. Buying cheaper parts from vendors is the big thing now for cost cutting. the sensor failure and solonoid failure are a result of this. Nissan doesnt do it intentionaly to make a buck. It is simply just cheap parts being used. Right now the QR engine is having a major failure due to oil consumption because nissan was able to save $6 per engine by buying cheaper rings. Well these cheaper rings arent seating. All other car manufactures are having similar type of problems due to this type of cost cutting.

[Axelpkt]

I agree completely. In the 2 years I've had my Pathy, these stupid little senors and solidnoids have been the only thing that have gone wrong on it. I'd gladly take them over some major engine failure or other mess.

[urtoast]

Any chance I can get some advice on P0011 and P0021 for a Nissan Pathfinder 2002?

[xdothedew]

Hi Everyone. I took out the sensor and now I'm having trouble trying to take out the connector. Am I supposed to push the green top and pull it out like a usual clip or am I supposed to do something else? It feels like it won't budge. Since this is my first time doing this, I would like to make sure everything is ok.

Thanks for the help! I attached a picture. It seems that the sensor was changed before

Update: Wow, I feel so dumb. It was actually a lot easier than I thought. All you have to do is push the edge of the green clip and there is a spring that goes down. Everything is finally fixed. woot!
Modified by xdothedew at 10:53 PM 7/26/2006

[MikePathfinder2001]

Ok, I changed the sensor because I hade a P1140, but my SES light came back on even after it was reset. What do I do now? Should I assume that the sensor that I got from pinnacle was damaged? I did notice oil on the sensor I took out, was that supposed to be there? Who knows, maybe I changed the completely wrong sensor. I changed the one on right front side of the engine if you are sitting in the car. It was just to the right of the battery. Anyway, shoud I go to the solonoid or shoud I switch the sensor with the one on the left side and see if I get another error.

Mike

PS. Thanks for all the informative help.

[rodrig50]

I just got the P1145 SES code on my 2001 Pathfinder. How hard are these to work on? I've never been really handy working on cars and don't want to mess anything else up in the process. What type of tools are required for this? It looks like just one screw and seems to be in a tight spot? I'm looking at the pdf and if I'm correct the P1145 would be for the sensor on the driver side near the oil cap, correct?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you

[xdothedew]

Ok, I changed the sensor because I hade a P1140, but my SES light came back on even after it was reset. What do I do now? Should I assume that the sensor that I got from pinnacle was damaged? I did notice oil on the sensor I took out, was that supposed to be there? Who knows, maybe I changed the completely wrong sensor. I changed the one on right front side of the engine if you are sitting in the car. It was just to the right of the battery. Anyway, shoud I go to the solonoid or shoud I switch the sensor with the one on the left side and see if I get another error.

Mike

PS. Thanks for all the informative help.

Same exact thing happened to me as well. As shown in the picture, I changed the sensor for P1140. Is it the correct one? It seems that MikePathfinder2001 changed the sensor on the passenger side instead. Since the light is on again, I will try the passenger side sensor. If that doesn't work, I will have to change the solenoid. Anyone know the part number and the exact name for it? Thanks!
Modified by xdothedew at 4:16 PM 7/31/2006

[xdothedew]

Well, it seems that it is finally fixed. I guess I placed the sensor on the wrong side. Now since that is fixed, the exhaust is making a loud noise... here we go again... and $430 later

[NISTECH]

Check the seems on the OC cats below the driver and passenger seat area. See if they are splitting. If the split doesnt go past the ribs in the cat shell towards the ends there is a kit you can use to seal them up. There is actually a TSB for that.

[MikePathfinder2001]

Ok, got it fixed. I bit the bullet and went to the dealer. Turns out that I actually fixed the P1140, but when I got the ses light turned off, and the light popped on again I just assumed it was a P1140. I should have had it checked and I would have been surprised to find I had a P1145. It seems as soon as I changed the right side, my left sensor died soon after. This was unexpected. for now on, when a sensor goes out, I'm just going to buy 2 and replace both. these things are like christmas light bulbs, if one goes out, they all do. Anyway, I figured I would post and just remind people never to assume what the ses code is because it cost me 189 bucks and I definately deserve the title a$$ out of assume.

Mike

[NISTECH]

Yea we see that in service alot. After we make a repair for one code a week later some other code will pop up. This is generally due to the part that was failing was causeing the computer to not "jump to any conclusions" If it saw the second failure but suspected it might be as a result of the first failure it will not throw the code or in reality it doesnt test that circuit as it already knows the results would be bogus due to the other failure.

[andrewsan]

P1145 fixed for less than $60.this thread (and NISTECH in particular) saved me hundreds....

Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.

[qx4infiniti2001]

Hi, I have a Infiniti QX4 2001 and P1140 popped out on my dash board. Can anyone tell me if I would need the same part discussed above or is it different. The other thing, is this sensor located around the same area just like Nissan or is it in a diferent position. I would appreciate all the help, Thanks a lot!

[NISTECH]

Other then a cool clock on your dash the QX4 is the same vehicle as the pathfinder. Read the sticky I put up. Your code is for intake timing but it may be the other one. The sticky explains how to determine if its the sensor or the solonoid.

[97Qx4]

Another SES problem. Code P1447. Can anyone help me out with this? - I drive a 1997 Infiniti QX4 that has 112K miles on it, is in immaculate condition cosmetically and has received a clean bill of health mechanically by three different mechanics. The problem is the "Service Engine Soon" light appeared about 2 months ago. I took it to my mechanic who had the canister replaced, but the light came back on after about two days when the computer reset. My mechanic explained that nothing was wrong with the car, but that due to California's strict emissions standards, the presence of the light itself would result in a failed smog test. I have since taken it to two independent mechanics who weren't able to diagnose the root cause of the problem. The dealership ran a diagnostic on the problem and also weren't able to drill down to the specific root cause of the problem, but recommended replacement of 10 parts totaling over $1,300 including a one-year warranty and 9 hours of labor @ $150/hour for a whooping total of over $2,600. They stated that their diagnosis was based on Nissan bulletin 0062-A. I'm not very knowledgable about cars, but this diagnosis appeared extremely excessive. Further, it was also explained that this is a relatively common problem with Nissan/Infiniti SUV's due to faulty parts on older models. An independent Nissan qualified mechanic believed that only 4 of the 10 parts were needed and believed he could fix the problem for $700. My dillemma is that if the problem was not fixed, there is no warranty protection. Would welcome and appreciate any suggestions from the board, or owners with similar experiences as I really can not afford the dealerships price tag, but also don't want to pay $700 for repairs if the problem is not fixed. Surprised that Nissan/Infiniti do not have a campaign for this as it sounds as though this problem is wide-spread amongst these models.

[NISTECH]

p1447 is evap purge moniter. I suspect your charcoal canister came appart and fed charcoal through out the system. The typical repair for this is to replace the canister and the purge valve it self as the charcoal gets lodged in it. You also need to blow out the evap lines. When doing so you disconnect the hoses at the back of the vehicle that are connected to the canister and the pressure sensor. If you dont disconnect the pressure sensor you will damage it when blowing out the lines.

The problem here is many technicians do not fully understand how the evap system works, even in dealers. It has several components and how each one works with the system is confusing to many of them. It is a relatively simple system once you understand how each components works. Most of the components on OBDII systems are simply for monitering how it is working [testing] It is very common for the canister to do this. If you have the solenoid type system you only need to replace 2 parts and clean the system. If you have the stepper motor type you need to replace 3 parts and clean the system.

But before doing any of the above you need to make sure the pressure sensor works properly. If the pressure sensor is malfunctioning you will get this same code. That test is very easy to do. You can use either a volt meter or the nissan consult scan tool. With the key on watch the voltage signal from the sensor it should be right around 3.36 volts at sea level. When appling a very light vaccum the voltage should drop substantially. When applying very slight pressure the voltage should jump up. You do NOT want to apply much at all as you can damage the sensor. I have a mighty vac hand vac that can apply pressure or a vaccum. The max pressure you want to apply to the sensor is less then .6psi a very slight partial push of the mighty vac lever. same for the vaccum aplication less then 5" of vaccum. This will make the voltage numbers jump substantially. If it will do that your sensor is ok. Since charcoal release is suspect you are doing this test at the sensor , not the service port under the hood.

A tall tail sign of canister failure would be finding charcoal granuals at the purge valve under the hood when you pull the hose off.

[rmajors]

First post....my daughter has a 2001 QX4 that is throwing a P1140 code and I have gathered a lot of very helpful information from this site regarding this matter. This is probably a dumb question, but when speaking of right side sensor and left side sensor etc., does right side mean driver side or passenger side? Thanks and keep up the great work.

[yliu11]

Hi All,

I am new to the club and the P1140 for my 2001 Pathfinder.

I know the code is P1140 and auto zone told me this the the problem of Left bank intake sensor. After read through this forum, I am still confused by the location of this sensor.Can someone tell me where exactly this sensor is located? when I open the hook facing the engine. Is the one close to the battery called L bank?

Second, is the 23731TB (or 23731-2Y524) the exact part number that I need to order.

Third, do I need to change both sensors (L and R) even though I only get P1140?

Thanks a lot

[Qx4X4]

Just Wanted to say thanks especially to NISTECH . I just replaced the VTC sensors on my 2001 Qx4 without incident and am happy to say I saved a pretty penny. Headed to Autozone to get the codes reset.

[gwhite]

I also want to give my thanks to everyone who posted the helpful information in this thread. I had the P1140 code and replaced the right-hand sensor. For the benefit of others who may be as inexperienced as I am, I thought I'd give a couple of tips that I learned the hard way. When you take a look at the location of the right-hand sensor, it isn't too hard to get too, but it isn't in the most convenient place either (you will need a metric socket wrench with a 2" extender). Well, there is a fat coolant hose that goes across the top of the engine and connects to the top of the radiator. If it weren't there, accessing the sensor would be a breeze, and it is only held on by a couple of hose clamps. I opened the radiator cap to verify that there wasn't any pressure in the system, and proceeded to disconnect the radiator end (top end) of the hose. After getting sprayed by coolant and then losing about a cup all over the engine compartment and the floor of my garage, I managed to get the hose reconnected. The other suggestion I would have is to tie a slip knot in a string and loop it around the old sensor while you remove it (and the new one while you insert it). Since the location is a little awkward, it is easy to lose hold of the sensor (I lost the old one). Not too big a deal, but it took a little work to find where it ended up and extract it. You definitely don't want to lose the bolt, since it would be *really* hard to find.

Anyway, thanks again for all the good information!

[RuskiQX4]

I have both the p1140 and p1145 codes. How would I know if it is the solonoid and is that something I can replace myself?

[MikePathfinder2001]

I ended up having both of those codes. It wasn't the solinoid, instead it was both of the O2 sensors right and left. Pathfinders seem to have problems with them. To have someone install it for you will cost you well over 300 bucks. I suggest buying the parts and doing it yourself. Just be careful when threading the bolts, if you crossthread them, then it is a pain in the but to fix. Otherwise, it is like a 20 minute job if you take your time.

Good luck

[LiquidLunch]

Right hand is referring to the passenger side- this is code p1140Left hand is referring to the drivers side- this is code p1145

When I initially got a p1145 code, I pulled the sensors and swapped them (they are the same part. I cleared the check engine light and started it up. I then got a p1140 code. I knew the sensor was bad and replaced it. No problems since.

[RuskiQX4]

I ordered the sensors and an obdII reader. Upon receiving the reader I realized that the light only comes on after I clear the CEL and drive the car for a little while. The codes would read P1140 and P2XXX something. I have to go back and read the code once again once I receive it.

I fear it is the solenoid as when I had a mechanic look over my car he told me that my transmission solenoids are sticking and that's causing the CEL lights to go on and the car to shift weird.

[armysigo]

What is the ecm reprogram? i just had code 0139 02 curcuit slow response bank 1 sensor 2.

can i do this myself? do you have a diagram of where it's located? thanks for your help.

Andy