Yeah another omg my car is stalling help me thread.

[Nissan240sx_s13]

Hey guys, before I begin to ask what might be wrong with my 240 ive allready searched and none of the results really went along with my problem. Anyway I own a 1990 single cam that seems to have stalling problems. The car has been equiped with a intake, headers, high flow cat and cat back for the mean time. My problem started about a month ago when I was pulled over and the car wouldnt start back up. Took it home let it sit for 4 hours and it started right up. Next day same problem, wouldnt start. Talked to my dad about maby it has to deal with the fuel system... with that in mind called the guy I bought it from and he agreed. First thing was the fuel pump, it was working great. Then we thought the fuel filter.... took it out put a brand new one in it started and idled great. Later that night I put the catback on and it hesitated to start. Drove it around and everytime I stopped I noticed it would drop from 700 to 300 then jump right back up. Took it home parked it for a hour then tried to start it right back up..... it wouldnt. Here comes the worst part, I had tinkered around with it and finally got it to start again... but I forgot what I had done to get it to start . Anyway here comes a even worst part that I left out ( I apollogize too) the car sometimes wont even crank because the clutch start wire had been cut. So with my brilliant mind I had just stuck a paper clip in there to ground it untell recently I bought a toggle switch and just made a kill switch out of it. So now after all that it was still droping and stalling. Thoe I noticed the stalling only happened when I would press on the breaks. Now stuck in traffic I try to start the car but Oh no ITS NOT CRANKING so after hundreds of times trying to start it It finally cranks and starts. So I drive home just thinking my injectors ( excuse me ) are just plain out ****. Pop the hood start to look around then to my suprise THE FRIGGIN BPT VALVE IS OFF. So I jump to joy thinking I found the problem. Clamp the hose and screwed only one bolt on to hold it in place sense THE DAMN THINGS BEEN OFF SENSE IVE BOUGHT IT and dont have them. Start the car and its idling at 1000!!! Ok now I thought it was over.... yah it isnt. Driving home I noticed the problem again. Car stalls, drops when I break all the old symptoms. So I finally make it home examine the hose leading to the B.P.T Valve and its getting a little worn out on the end but I belive nothing that would cause these problems. So I come to you guys with my problem and ask what do you think it could be? Im stilling thinking its gotta do with the fuel system or theres a vaccum leak somewhere. So once again I ask you please help me and ignore my grammer and spelling ive been up sense 3 and Im dead tired and cant think worth a damn.

[positron1]

Well when I had a similiar problem a couple of months ago with my car dying/stalling on me the first thing I did was replace the fuel pump. I didn't hear it priming and thought that was the problem. It kept doing it and I finally tried something I read on the forum, a new coolant temp sensor. It fixed my problem. My car was dying, I would leave it sitting for an hour and a half to two hours and it would start back up no problem. What really got me was that it was something so simple and cheap. Don't know if it will fix your situation but you might give it some thought.

[Nissan240sx_s13]

I might look into that, I think it might be the MAF. So ill go out to the junkyard and pick up a stock one and see if thats the problem.

[MY92SX]

Check out the contacts on the 4 leads and ground where they attach to your fuel pump assembly outside the gas tank. Press and wiggle each small flat plastic disc with the engine started. If it quits running the problem is an intermittent vibration short caused by corrosion on the pressed to fit contacts beneath . This is an easy fix but involves removal of the assembly from the tank. Be sure you disc. your -post, remove the assyand let it air dry. Use some sandpaper to clean the copper contacts. Silver solder each where they attach to the leads.

My shop replaced 2 "bad fuel pumps" before I found the real problem

[masterbunta]

If your brake pedal gets really tight when you press it, then the brake booster is leaking. Maybe you have a hard pedal all the time, if so, the brake booster is the issue. It works with vaccuum operating a diaphram, and if there is a hole in the diaphram, then you get the problem under braking that you describe.

[MY92SX]

Huh????????????????????????