Post by
Didderson »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/didderson-u38557.html
Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:40 pm
Small educational update. Painting techniques, some stuff on what I've learned and what works for me.
I don't normally show what goes into painting stuff, but this is a low grade job for the parts done 2nite. Basically these sand cast iron pieces aren't for show, but they were about to start rusting sooooo.
Dawn and water in a bucket is your best friend. Get the paintable piece wet, then use the orange brush to remove the dirt on it.
For higher quality jobs where a nice smooth finish is desired, start wetsanding with 400 grit, then 600, then you can skip to 1000 if you'd like. Pretty much after a good wet 600 you're ready to lay paint though.Key to wetsanding: You'll be able to feel the difference if it's not wet enough, the paper won't slide as easily and it will 'bite'. This is bad, get more dawn-water on that sand paper because it provides a barrier between the grits and the paint, sanding much less than it would without a water barrier.
Just a tip for if you rattle can your car with a nice 2 coats of clear: Start with 400 and wet sand. Wipe the surface with a windshield wiper or something (3m makes this nifty sanding block that doubles as a wiping arm). Once you wipe the surface it's dry. You can then easily see the sanding marks. Look for high and low spots (called orange peel because it looks like an orange peel), if you see any, the high spots are dull and the low spots are glossy (aka haven't been sanded yet) so you're not done sanding.
Once you get close to removing the orange peel but not totally, finish removing it with the 600 grit wet sand. 1000 grit wet sand comes next. Remember, this whole time you have a bucket or spray bottle of dawn mixed with water solution. The dawn cuts grease so paint will lay and also helps the water kinda stay on the car.
After the 1000 it's up to you to go over it with 2000 grit wet sand. I'd say go for it especially if you're new to buffing out a paint job. I'm still not very good at buffing because I don't have a buffer LOL.In any event, consult youtube for buffing, but the gist of it is keeping the surface moist with the buffing compound to avoid burning through the paint. If you burn through the paint there is no turning back, full respray must be done. Keep the buffer moving is also a huge thing u need to do.
Some say you need a tack rag before painting, I just use an old T shirt with paint thinner on it to pick up any extra debris. Who likes buying tack cloths? Not me!Also, wet sanding makes your sand paper last 10x longer. Get the 3m stuff, it'll last years!
So anyway, tonight i just did the quick brush clean and then only 400 grit because these aren't pieces ppl care about, I just wanted em to not rust yet . I also forgot to mention that once you are done sanding, rinse the pieces in regular water and let them dry naturally, no wiping! They're ready for spray once they're dry.
The water pump pulley:
I also failed to mention or take a pic of the dirt that was compacted into the grooves of each pulley from the accident throwing a shovel load at the motor. It was kinda not fun scraping every last bit of it out of each groove lol.
But yea, hope this helps some ppl who haven't yet painted with confidence find that edge!
Modified by Didderson at 9:41 PM 4/8/2009