Y33 upgrade time - opinions?

[Vmo]

Well after 130,000 miles of service I'm going to replace the front shocks. So naturally do I pony up $300 per for the OEM adjustables (I have a 99 t), or can someone chime in who has put lowering springs/sport shocks on about the subsequent change in ride quality?

I plan on keeping the OEM 5-stars since I dislike paying for 18" tires, so if it will look weird I'd like to know that also.

Since it appears that I will be refurbishing quite a few parts on the car in the near future, I'll try to get pics of everything and do a write-up to bolster the 2nd gen tech articles also.

Thanks in advance....

[maxnix]

Personally, if I had a t or ae, I would keep the optional elctrically adjustable shocks.

I have a standard, and I switched to the Eibachs sports (very difficult to find as they are out of production) because I didn't like the pitch moment of the OEM springs although I did like the roll stiffness. I also switched to 18x9 OZ Superleggera, mostly because performance tires were not available in the narrow OEM wheel widths. Also I switched to the non-adjustable KYB SR Special dampers.

I am happy, but cost with Michelin PS2 was about $3,500 without labor. Also installed Brembo OEM rotors.

Several threads on tires, wheels and springs for the FGY33, so I would read them first, and of course Tire Rack is a great resource.
Modified by maxnix at 2:54 PM 2/27/2008

[Vmo]

ahh, the tire rack.. I used to know every site that sold anything for my previous cars, but I've been so pleased with this one that I haven't strayed much further than the house of Joe. Of course, I always have my eye on the wald or couture body kits.....

thanks!

[maxnix]

The adjustable inserts (front) and shocks (rear) are probably less from Joe than the KYB SR Specials.

Can't go wrong with Joe.

If you go with the Brembo OEM rotors, be aware one reason they are so inespenxive is they are not palted, so the hubs corrode badly. The drilled Stillen Brembo from Joe are plated.

[Vmo]

yeah I replaced the rotors with OEM Brembos a while back and the pads yesterday, and noticed how rusted they were after only about 6 months on the car. As long as they don't warp I'm happy.

I wanted to replace as many of the rubber parts of the suspension as I could when I had the strut disassembled, but I'll have to pick somebody's brain about it (and the FSM) since this car has a few more parts to it than the old prelude it replaced!

[maxnix]

Probably good to include all sway bar bushings and rear link bushings. Might as well have the steering rack bushings on hand just in case. Belts and pulleys fine?

[Vmo]

Yeah I called the other day and asked for "all the belts" like someone in a previous thread, and received 3. I took down the part numbers though that were provided by 3Q Jay (thanks) so I'll get the 4th one.

The only problem is that I have already installed a new water pump, along with the other 3 belts so it will all have to be torn apart again to get to the 4th one, which is buried the furthest into the engine. Oh well, write up time I guess......

I assume you're asking about the tensioner pulleys - they seem to be fine (no squeaking or anything.)

The other problem I can see myself running into is that I have never successfully pulled a ball joint loose and I'm going to have to do that for the shocks and to replace a bad tie rod end on the passenger side. Does anybody know the best tool to use for it? Pickle fork or some kind of puller available at autozone?

I'll try to get some pictures of the bushings I can see also for everyone's enjoyment

[bullittandy]

Yeah I called the other day and asked for "all the belts" like someone in a previous thread, and received 3. I took down the part numbers though that were provided by 3Q Jay (thanks) so I'll get the 4th one.

The only problem is that I have already installed a new water pump, along with the other 3 belts so it will all have to be torn apart again to get to the 4th one, which is buried the furthest into the engine. Oh well, write up time I guess......

I assume you're asking about the tensioner pulleys - they seem to be fine (no squeaking or anything.)

The other problem I can see myself running into is that I have never successfully pulled a ball joint loose and I'm going to have to do that for the shocks and to replace a bad tie rod end on the passenger side. Does anybody know the best tool to use for it? Pickle fork or some kind of puller available at autozone?

I'll try to get some pictures of the bushings I can see also for everyone's enjoyment

Don't separate the balljoint. Instead remove the control arm from the body-one bolt that's easily accessible. Its a little bit of a hassle to have the control arm attached to the strut while weilding it but much better than bangin on the balljoint and risking bending the control arm or tearing the boot.

[maxnix]

Oh yeah, front strut bearings are good to have on hand.

Idler pulleys for the accessory belts can be replaced. There are six of them, so just be careful not to downgrade them.

[paranoidjack]

Yeah I called the other day and asked for "all the belts" like someone in a previous thread, and received 3. I took down the part numbers though that were provided by 3Q Jay (thanks) so I'll get the 4th one.

The only problem is that I have already installed a new water pump, along with the other 3 belts so it will all have to be torn apart again to get to the 4th one, which is buried the furthest into the engine. Oh well, write up time I guess......

I assume you're asking about the tensioner pulleys - they seem to be fine (no squeaking or anything.)

The other problem I can see myself running into is that I have never successfully pulled a ball joint loose and I'm going to have to do that for the shocks and to replace a bad tie rod end on the passenger side. Does anybody know the best tool to use for it? Pickle fork or some kind of puller available at autozone?

I'll try to get some pictures of the bushings I can see also for everyone's enjoyment

Beautiful car!

[Vmo]

Beautiful car!

I wish I had known about the AE when I bought this thing - but yes they look good in white!

Don't separate the balljoint. Instead remove the control arm from the body-one bolt that's easily accessible.

When I replaced the axles in my prelude that's how I did it so I'm glad it will work in this situation also.

[Rex]

I just have to say how beautiful the white Y33 Q is .

I gave one a serious look before my most recent purchase, but nostalgia won out.