Y33 Transmission Heistation

[BlueC]

Alright so I just got off the phone with the nearby dealership. Previous owners took care of the wheel recall, so thats good. Now for the transmission issue, the service manager actually found that the previous owners brought in the car back in 2003 for the EXACT same problem im talking about. A Delay/hesitation between 2nd and 3rd gear. 1st gear is crisp, no issue. So I ofcourse scheduled an appt for next week on wednesday. $58 charge to check it out half the day, including a loaner (im assuming a G35). I hope to hell they find a problem, because it almost does feel like its slipping.

Im glad to find out it wasnt all in my head.
Modified by BlueC at 3:12 PM 2/14/2006

[Falkdesigns]

Good luck with it, and it's good that they had it in before for the same thing. Mine has a very minor gap in the 1-2 shift when it's cold only, the rest of the gears are damn near seamless, and once it's warmed up for a few minutes, the 1-2 shift is just as smooth.

[elwesso]

The nissan RE4R03A have this problem.. common with the 90-96 Q, since it uses the same trans as the Y33.

No one has really fixed it that I know of.

[BlueC]

The nissan RE4R03A have this problem.. common with the 90-96 Q, since it uses the same trans as the Y33.

No one has really fixed it that I know of.

What is it exactly, is it slipping inbetween gears?

[elwesso]

No its not slipping... Its just a slow shift.. We kinda think its in the shift solenoids...

Do a search, theres a few great threads about it, where we really break it down.

[Falkdesigns]

Well, like I said above, mine ONLY does it when cold, and only the 1-2 shift. I do know that the ECU retards the ignition slightly between shifts in order to have such a smooth, seamless transmission. 98% of the time I am unaware of the transmission at all.

[BlueC]

No its not slipping... Its just a slow shift.. We kinda think its in the shift solenoids...

Do a search, theres a few great threads about it, where we really break it down.

Thanks for the tip, I read through a few of those threads. Would it even be worthwhile to spend the $58 or so to have it checked out? I know im due for a ATF flush, im contemplating just getting it flushed at the dealership and seeing if that helps.

[maxnix]

If they have a BG or a Sun machine, do it, the pan drop and filter replacement, and add a cooler in series with the coke can in the radiator's bottom tank. B&M 70268 should do for the frozen north and do well enough in summer.
Modified by maxnix at 7:39 AM 2/15/2006

[TBrack]

my g50 just started doing this from 2nd to 3rd last week. So it isnt a sign of bad things to come I hope?

[Meaux]

My 94Q does the same thing.......seems like it can't decide if it's time to shift or not. Like a woman making up her mind...

[maxnix]

The two above souond like maintenance required, and none is cited in either post.

[Meaux]

Yep, that is true.

A couple of months ago I noticed the trans fluid way overfull, so I drained the pan, and refilled to correct level...That didn't change anything.

I'm searching for a shop that can do a flush...Not much here in L.A. (lower Alabama)

[BlueC]

Im having my trans flushed at the dealership on Tuesday next week. They quoted me roughly $160, at first he said $260 and I said "That sounds really high" and then he corrected himself thinking I was talking about a G35. Anyways, I'll let you guys know if that helps fix the problem.

[TBrack]

The two above souond like maintenance required, and none is cited in either post.

Why do you say that? I just had a flush and filter cleaning a month ago and the fluid levels are fine.

[3Q Jay]

very very common on the re4r03a. the mechanics of the 2-->3 being longer comes from the fact that two (near) simultaneous events must occur. the brake band releases and the high clutch engages. when there is negative overlap in the two events you get an overspeed as the 2nd brake release before the high clutch is fully engaged. The high clutch is especially prone to slow engage with age and exacerbated by overheats and poor oci's.

try getting everything squeeky clean first. then, if you still have a long shift there are some options, but nothing short of a rebuild can put friction material back on your plates.

i have been experimenting with tweaking the shift solenoids, but if you firm-up the 2-3, then all you other shifts assuming otherwise normal will be neck-snapping hard.i also modified my valvebody to trigger a much quicker engage of the high-clutch (you have to really want to avoid a rebuild to go to these lengths). My 2-3 shift at heavy throttle is awesome, but the lazy around town 2--3 is still delayed now in the other direction.....my high clutch now engages before the band releases...the trans at light throttle actually shifts 2->4--->3->4

[BlueC]

very very common on the re4r03a. the mechanics of the 2-->3 being longer comes from the fact that two (near) simultaneous events must occur. the brake band releases and the high clutch engages. when there is negative overlap in the two events you get an overspeed as the 2nd brake release before the high clutch is fully engaged. The high clutch is especially prone to slow engage with age and exacerbated by overheats and poor oci's.

try getting everything squeeky clean first. then, if you still have a long shift there are some options, but nothing short of a rebuild can put friction material back on your plates.

i have been experimenting with tweaking the shift solenoids, but if you firm-up the 2-3, then all you other shifts assuming otherwise normal will be neck-snapping hard.i also modified my valvebody to trigger a much quicker engage of the high-clutch (you have to really want to avoid a rebuild to go to these lengths). My 2-3 shift at heavy throttle is awesome, but the lazy around town 2--3 is still delayed now in the other direction.....my high clutch now engages before the band releases...the trans at light throttle actually shifts 2->4--->3->4

Thanks for all the info. I did notice one thing the other day. When the engine was cold, the trans didnt want to shift into 4th for awhile, like a solid minute. I actually hope it gets worse before the warranty runs out. Because it seems like its already on its way out.

[97Q45t]

...I did notice one thing the other day. When the engine was cold, the trans didnt want to shift into 4th for awhile, like a solid minute...(

That is normal. I think one of the reasons it was designed like that is making the enigne warms up faster.

[BlackBirdVQ]

GQ Jay- have you tried repleacing the solenoids ?

My Q when cold has a slooow 2-3 shift also but its perfect when the car is fully warmed up. I am going to give it a try before I eighter say F it and convert to a Z32 5spd, or rebuild a spare transmission with the Level 10 kit and upgraded valve body. I would like to keep it AT as its soo much eassier to drive in traffic, Chicago sucks.

[maxnix]

Why do you say that? I just had a flush and filter cleaning a month ago and the fluid levels are fine.

Shift shoud be pretty crisp at anything over 1/3 throttle.

With the throttle barely open at low rpms, the shift is lazy.
Modified by maxnix at 4:38 PM 2/18/2006

[maxnix]

That is normal. I think one of the reasons it was designed like that is making the enigne warms up faster.

Well, actually it is more subtle than that.

It is to train the operator to warm the car to proper operating temperature before engaging the transmission.

[3Q Jay]

yeh Mike. when i pulled the vb to modify the high clutch feed pressure i also replaced all 5 solenoids. i believe the old shift solenoid was slightly degraded, but the shift valve a and b solenoids didn't seem any different.