Y33 transmission pan gasket/RTV ?s

[KingKarl]

Please help! As usual, I am confused. I finally have all of the parts for the transmission service on the '98 Q45t. After a search of past posts, I find I still have a couple of questions about replacing the transmission pan and new gasket.- Is it necessary to use RTV sealant between the pan and the gasket and the gasket and the transmission case? In other words, will the gasket/pan seal without RTV if surfaces are cleaned and the "one use" bolts are torqued correctly?

- If the consus is "better to be safe than sorry" and use RTV sealant, which is best for the transmission application? (I've seen Nissan product, Permatex red or grey, non-drying sealant....don't use silicone-based and and do use silicon-based RTV.)

- As an aside, what are the odds that the Iron Swede calls a "lawn alert", compromising my garage time over the weekend? Even as I post this, she is eyeing 2 palates of sod the lawn weenie next door has left over after his annual attempt to bring a small slice of Augusta National to our neighborhood.

In any event, all expertise/opinions/experiences are much appreciated.

[elwesso]

Sorry you crack me up everytime you post.. LOL!!!!!! I think as long as you dont make a mess in the garage, you should be good to go.. But be ready for a mess.. GOD what a mess i made... Took me 3 shampoos to get it out of my HAIR.. The taste really started to grow on me. Most people look at the dipstick to chekc the fluid, i just taste it...

When I did the transmission pan and stuff on my old Q, i didntuse RTV.. Just scrape off all the old gasket..

What I think ill do next time is put just a little bit of RTV or something in between the pan and the gasket so that the gasket doesnt slide everywhere.. that was HELL trying to get the gasket lined up right.....

Bottom line is, i didnt use RTV and it was completely leak free.

[squeefoo]

What kind of gasket material ??

If it's rubber (1) and has little steel circles in the holes, you don't need sealant just clean it. Or you can use the Hylomar stuff. (just a very, very thin film) If it's composite (2) you might want to put the same amount on (of RTV) for insurance, make real sure all the bolts are the same torque and both surfaces very clean.

The first gens have a reusable gasket as in #1Hope this helps.

[KingKarl]

Thanks Wes! I would rather not use the sealant if I don't have to. I'm hoping someone steals the lawn weenie's sod tonight and I'll be free to wallow in AT fluid the whole weekend.

[elwesso]

Id recommend you get something (elmers will do) to hold the gasket to the pan as you reposition it on the transmission...

Also, if you can pull it off, a good way to clean the transmission pan might be by doing it in the sink..... Soap and water will work great. Clean the magnet, and you will be astonished what this picks up... I remember when I did it i had it in a parts cleaner.. I was cleaning it, got it about as clean as I could... Left some of the parts solvent in there, and when I got back the magnet was CAKED again with more crap!

Just slide it in the dishwasher before she notices

[KingKarl]

Thanks Squee. The gasket is from Joe/Scottsdale Infiniti and a seal ridge runs around the center of the gasket and around each bolt hole. The ridges are not metal but appear to be of the same composite material as the gasket. Which RTV would be recommended? Would Hylomar work with a composite gasket and Isn't it non-drying?

[KingKarl]

The kitchen sink....even better, the dish washer! I really like it, Wes! I may even test the RTV on the lawn weenie's mailbox door.

[squeefoo]

Thanks Squee. The gasket is from Joe/Scottsdale Infiniti and a seal ridge runs around the center of the gasket and around each bolt hole. The ridges are not metal but appear to be of the same composite material as the gasket. Which RTV would be recommended? Would Hylomar work with a composite gasket and Isn't it non-drying?

If it's rubber Hylomar ( = non-drying) will work great, any RTV for cork/rubber and fiber/paper. The metal or sometimes plastic inserts keep the fastener from pinching the gasket, tensioning only to the thickness of the spacer.

I've put Hylomar on comp. gaskets and it's vanished but the gasket didn't stick, but sealed, so I put that in the horse apiece file. Any oil/gas resistant RTV will work.

100% silicone seems to cause worms in the pan, if not used sparingly.

[FarFetched]

Please help! As usual, I am confused. I finally have all of the parts for the transmission service on the '98 Q45t. After a search of past posts, I find I still have a couple of questions about replacing the transmission pan and new gasket.- Is it necessary to use RTV sealant between the pan and the gasket and the gasket and the transmission case? In other words, will the gasket/pan seal without RTV if surfaces are cleaned and the "one use" bolts are torqued correctly?

- If the consus is "better to be safe than sorry" and use RTV sealant, which is best for the transmission application? (I've seen Nissan product, Permatex red or grey, non-drying sealant....don't use silicone-based and and do use silicon-based RTV.)

- As an aside, what are the odds that the Iron Swede calls a "lawn alert", compromising my garage time over the weekend? Even as I post this, she is eyeing 2 palates of sod the lawn weenie next door has left over after his annual attempt to bring a small slice of Augusta National to our neighborhood.

In any event, all expertise/opinions/experiences are much appreciated.

NO RTV at all. use 4 bolts to secure trans pan in place, criss-cross pater for torqueing than all others is the same manner. There is a problem with front 4 bolts, you would have to undo return line fron transmission housing in order to get 4 bolts out. All this at the front end of the transmission!A bit of struggle, but at the end you will heave a clear picture of what's going on. Besides, it would be much easier to fit trans pan in place wjhen you do it. When you put gasket on the pan secure it with bolts holes are smaller that bolt treads, so the gasket won't go anywhere!Hope this helps! Cheers!

[maxnix]

No RTV. New gasket and one time use bolts.

[KingKarl]

A question for Mr. Farfetched...I see your point about the front 4 transmission bolts and clearing the way for the pan re-install by disconnecting the transmission fluid return line. Do you perhaps remember the drill...which end or both?

[FarFetched]

You would have to disconnect if I remember correctly 19 MM banjo bolt then swing it out of the way just to cler 4 bolts.It all has to happen on driver side of the transmission. Aparently you have looked down there and got surprized Do not use excessive force on that line, bu gentel. One more thing, there is a copper washer under that banjo bolt, a very thin one, don't loose it.

[3Q Jay]

FWIW, when i did this last year on the fy33, I didn't remove any lines. i just gently flexed 'em enough to slip the socket over the bolts. wasn't a thrill, but no leaks. oh yeah, dry gasket w/ one time bolts. torqued to 100 in-lb. don't forget the o-ring on the filter.

[KingKarl]

Thanks one and all. In theory, your help appears to have made my pending transmission service nearly botch-proof. Now for the ultimate test of that theory. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[maxnix]

Torque the bolts with a torque wrench and in the correct sequence.

My question is, why isn't the technician who is mechanically exchanging the fluid and installing the ATF cooler not doing this for you?

A pan drop and drain is next to useless as so little comes out and so much contaminated fluid stays in.

[KingKarl]

Hello Max,

Here is the problem...."a technician who is mechanically exchanging the fluid" infers that I have access to one of the wonderful transmission services that employ people who read above the "See Jane run" level. There is no Infiniti dealer in my area (nearest: 80 to 100 miles). There is one shop that, according to marketing, "specialzes" in Nissan/Infiniti repair - "Certified to perform factory warranty service". I called to ask about the transmission service on KingKarl. When I asked if they replaced the AT filter, the tech replied that the 1998 Q45t does not have an AT filter. I did not ask about a flush, mechanical or chemical. I am better off in the interim with the 2 minute, 16 quarts os Mobil 1 drill. These people ought to be laying sod with the Iron Swede this weekend.

Wes.....After re-reading this thread, I am also LOL. As a DIY mechanic, I work to overcome deficits.. knowledge, skill, time, tools, and facility. I see that I may also fall victim to substance abuse. We must all answer these questions: Does the term "automotive fluid" make you smile? Have you named any of your children Viscosity or MAF? Do you smell dip-sticks for no apparent reason?

[maxnix]

http://www.bgfindashop.com/

Gainesville does seem to be a wasteland for automotive services.

Try:

Saturn of Gainesville3737 N Main StreetGainsville, FL 32609(352) 395-6300

[KingKarl]

Max, Thank you.

The next question I have to ask them is do they know how to use what they have? I live in Gainesville, FL...a college town. Lots and lots of almost free labor, high turnover, and low requirement for employment standards. Your kind work indicates that Saturn has the equipment. Is there any way you could suggest what questions I should ask to be certain they know now to use it?

[elwesso]

IT should be pretty brainless to operate the BG flush thing. Honestly what I would do is have the cooler and filter done and then take it to the dealer for the flush.

Im confused though, are you doing this yourself??? If so, id recommend doing the 2min drill at home DIY... It is doing the EXACT same thing as the flush machine!!! Whether or not you believe it, all the BG flush machine does is supply fluid at the same rate the transmission pumps it out. The ATF pump in the transmission is the thing that actually moves the fluid. The BG system does just use the AT cleaner before hand, which you can add youself and then do your home flush... Im going to do this when I feel like making the mess of a lifetime... But for now my ATF is doing fine.... I think if you replace 95% of the fluid, and save yourself $100, then all is well in my book... The transmission only holds 14 qts, so flushing 16qts would certainly allow for ALL of the old fluid to be gone!

Really the interal "filter" is not really a filter. its simply a screen to prevent big chunks from moving around. You could PROBABLY get away with just cleaning it, but $40 every 2 years for transmission maintenance, plus fluid, is hardly worth batting an eye at.. plus it gives you an excuse to do the more important thing, and thats clean the pan!

But back to the main point, you cna do this DIY in an afternoon if your swift with the tools. Whenever I work on stuff it takes me 2x as long as i planned because I like to examine things, and sometimes I find myself compleltely spaced out under the car, looking for the blasted socket wrench that is simply laying on my stomach..

[squeefoo]

...and sometimes I find myself completely spaced out under the car...

:rofl

Me too It helps you plan... and sometimes it feels good to lay on the creeper for a minute.

don't forget the law of the seven "P's" = Proper Previous Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance

[maxnix]

If so, id recommend doing the 2min drill at home DIY... It is doing the EXACT same thing as the flush machine!!!

This is outright nonsense, misinformation and simply not true. Please read Q45tech's posts.

The other alternative is to use the Sun machine supplied by SnapOn. Catch a jobber and he can probably direct you to a shop that has one.

[elwesso]

I knew youd love that Brian.. Seems hard to believe that the same thing could be accomplished at home for much less money.. Hmm, spending $100 has GOT to be better than doing it at home....

zerothread?id=104931

Quote »The flush machine (BG anyway) does not have its own pump. The car's transmission does all the work of moving fluids.[/quote]zerothread?id=53614

zerothread?id=85511

Simple pan drain repeated frequently enough will be 75% or better equivalent of a machine exchange without the circulating solvent flush.. If you are methodical and time the pan drain and run intervals with a stop watch, you can probably safely do a circulating chemical flush and fluid exchange with ATF without a machine?

Many times you will see that even with a machine flush and 14 quarts the colors don't match so another 14 quart flush is need for perfection a week later.............due to internal cross contamination [seal leaks].

zerothread?id=36660

The term flush is sometimes confused because the flush part is the chemical cleaner whose circulation for 15 minutes removes the varnish [into solution].

After reading all that, for most people, I agree paying the extra money to have it done right. However, like Dennis says, if you are careful and do it right, you could probably mimmic a machine "flush" at home.. Get BG quick clean for AT's and circulate for 15 mins, then do the "2 minute drill"..

put the stuff in, circulate for 15mins, then drop the pan and filter, replace all clean and good, then do the 2 min drill 4 times from there on out... Be sure while the pan is off to move the gear selector around.. When I did that and moved something around, ATF would come out of every hole it seemed..

However, that would probably take an afternoon to accomplish whereas the machine flush would take roughly an hour... All depends what your after, but I think im going to try the "home flush"

[qship96]

after years of annual machine fluid exchanges with mobil 1 synthetic atf,this year I did the home version,with the 2 minute drill using mobil 1,using about 15 quarts total.for annual service on a vehicle that has had a good history of fluid exchanges,I feel the home method is more than sufficient-especially if using a premium brand of atf.hell,for the 100 saved by not using the machine,you could get another 15-20 quarts of mobil 1 atf and do it every 6 months if you wanted to,and always have fresh fluid in there! I am getting leary of monkeys fiddling with 10 year old transmission lines and connections moreso than worrying about the cost.

[FarFetched]

There are two basic rules for an auto transmission to functon properly besides unexpected mulfunctions. They are: heat build up control i.e auxilary cooling system and running condition of properly selected fluid i.e AT filter service intervals. If one makes sure all that is in proper order, then there should not be any issues. Machine flush is a good measure to get transmission up to snuff, many (MAZDA, FORD) services do only that when transmission is equipped with screen(wire mesh) type filter. As I see it, you can spend your annual salary on Q maintainence and still end up with a brakedown of some sort!

Cheers!

[KingKarl]

Guys, i'm doing the 2 min. drill. I find absolutely no evidence that the technology is available in Gainesville and have no confidense that anyone here could use it if it were available.

Anyway, my plans for the Memorial Day Holiday DIY fest were indeed thwarted by the Iron Swede's sod-fest. More to come.

[elwesso]

Guys, i'm doing the 2 min. drill. I find absolutely no evidence that the technology is available in Gainesville and have no confidense that anyone here could use it if it were available.

Anyway, my plans for the Memorial Day Holiday DIY fest were indeed thwarted by the Iron Swede's sod-fest. More to come.

Good let us know how it turns out...