Happy Holidays, and thought I could use some of my spare time to diagnose the problem with my wife's Q45 and prepare this my first post. I did a search in the forum for the P1320 code and could not find exactly what I was looking for.

The problem started about a month and a half ago when the TCS and SLIP lights came on, and shortly therafter the service engine soon light. When this happens the car's engine vibrates (wants to stall when idling) and the car cannot be driven much over 40 mph. Turning off the car and waiting overnight cures the problem (TCS and SLIP lights go off, engine runs fine), but it returns on the average once a week. So it has happened about 6 times now, with the latest occurence producing a rotten egg smell. All these details were supplied to me by my wife and daughters, as the car has never done this when I am around.

My OBD II scanner returned 3 codes:

1. P1320 Mfg Ctrl - Ignition system or misfire2. P0325 Knock Sensor 1 - Circuit malf - Bank 1 or sensor 13. P1320 PENDING

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Craig

Welcome to NICO Craig!!!

Main thing we'll concern ourselves with is the P1320 code...

ACcording to the FSM its either the ignition coil or the cam angle sensor, im inclinted to think the former...

if this is intermittant your going to have more problems finding which coil it is. infiniti dealer is going to want to replace all 8 coils for some ridiculous price which is certainly not necessary!

Does the problem only come on with the slip and TCS lights? That could be a clue...

Thanks for your quick reply, and sorry I was not able to make the conditions very clear. Yes, the problem only occurs when the SLIP and TCS lights come on, and again this is my wife and daughter's solemn testimony.

Craig

Craig

Well since the slip and TCS lights come on we can do a self diagnosis on the TCS control unit and see what is going on.

Attached is the self diagnostic procedure... To interprit the codes, you count the flashes. Long flashes mean the 10's digit, short flashes are the 1's digit...

So code 34 would look like this -------- --------- -------- --- --- --- ---

Click the images to enlarge them.

OK, here is what I did:

1. Drove the car for a few minutes at 30 mph, parked it and turned off.2. Placed the end of a copper wire so it was a snug fit into the Data Link connector #4 (I counted over 4 holes on the top row) and then grounded it to a metal component close by.3. Turned the ignition switch on and waited for the SLIP light to flash.

It never did, so assuming I followed the instructions correctly, there is no indication of a malfunction in the ABS/TCS system. To be sure I repeated steps 2 and 3 (changed grounding points as well) a few times but there was no change.

But I am not sure how this would relate to an ignition coil or cam sensor problem!

Thanks again.

Craig

Code 80 is what Im looking for.. It uses the CAS signal to determine RPM... If its not getting it, its going to go into failsafe, and as the chart says the slip and TCS lights will come on.

Maybe im going the wrong direction with this, but it seems too weird that the CEL and TCS lights would come on at hte same time to think its coincidental....

What I need ot know is when this happens, can you not go higher than 2000 RPM? If thats the case that indicates CAS fail safe, at least im pretty sure it does. i know 2000 RPM rev limit does that for early Q but im having a hard time confirming it for later models, however im inclined to think that is the case.

Wow...newbie naivety strikes again...my apologies, what I thought was the data link connector was the OBD port!

It has returned an 84 (engine parts are under fail safe condition) and a 12 (self diagnosis coud not detect any malfunctions).

Sorry,

Craig

A reasonable mistake, I did that the first time too when doing the diagnosis on a Y33... Its weird having OBD port and consult port..

Anyway, the slip and TCS light doesnt really tell us much of anything, however its telling us that something is in fail safe (restating the obvious)... Kind of stupid it would throw the CEL and slip/TCS lights for engine related failsafe status!

Ideally what youd like to do is put in a data monitor and log all of the engine parameter when it starts doing it ... that way we can tell whats going on by comparing as read voltages with what is normal.

However, we can try things that dont cost anything for sort of a trial and error helps rule out the annoying stuff. I would try cleaning the CAS connector making sure theres no corrosion or anything. Might as well try it.. I always recommend people doing things from easy to hard regardless of if they may do anything.... it may fix it, it may not but at least we can rule it out if it doesnt do anything....

Since this is an intermittant problem, im inclined to think its not a coil because that would be a more permanent failure, and thers no failsafe regarding ignition coils, they just die and throw a CEL! If the ECU is in failsafe mode, that means its a major sensor thats failed (CAS, MAF, Temp, etc), and since the CAS is the only one having to do with the ignition circuit, seems like we have our culprit.

ive never heard of a CAS going on a Y33 however Im sure you'd be honored to be number 1!!!

Thanks for helping to pin down the culprit. Makes sense and I will start with the easy stuff now. I hate to ask, but not having the manual, is the CAS easy to find?

Craig

Go get the manual at http://www.phatg20.net . youll need winrar to extract it. Just telling you for your own convenience I dont mind putting all these pages up from the FSM... its a definite as far as what you need...

The cas is on the drivers side valve cover on the front of the motor...

Thanks for the link to the manual, and I cannot believe I have it now and it did not cost me anything! I will let you know my progress.

Craig

Update:

I removed the CAS connector yesterday and used some contact cleaner on both the male and female ends. Snapped it back in, cleared the codes and let my wife and daughter drive it.

This morning when I checked it had returned the knock sensor P0325, so I cleared it again.

Sounds like I am making progress. Any further thoughts are always appreciated.

Many thanks.

Craig

elwesso wrote:So code 34 would look like this -------- --------- -------- --- --- --- ---

Actually, that would be Code 33.

Be sure to get the TSB also.

GThreat wrote:Update:

I removed the CAS connector yesterday and used some contact cleaner on both the male and female ends. Snapped it back in, cleared the codes and let my wife and daughter drive it.

This morning when I checked it had returned the knock sensor P0325, so I cleared it again.

Sounds like I am making progress. Any further thoughts are always appreciated.

Many thanks.

Craig

Well you can LIVE with bad KS, just not optimally... I think you might have solved your problem for the time being... Think about replacing your KS.

Hi,

Looks like I have gone 2-1/2 yrs now and this problem is still here. It subsided for a while, 6 months after I replaced a leaking gas cap, another 6 months when I sprayed all the electrical connections and visible wires with a di-electric spray.

Lately it has become almost a daily problem, but I can get 2 or 3 days when the car runs perfect. This weekend I changed all 8 plugs and used the NGK PFR5G-11. Sunday it ran nicely (short trip) but on Monday it started running rough and threw engine code 306, however the SLIP and TCS lights did not come on (as had in the past when it threw the 1320 code). I added some injector cleaner and it improved but you can still feel it missing every minute or two when idling.

Any further thoughts?

Many thanks

Craig

Catalytic converters ever been replaced? Sounds like your code is tripping your knock sensors and they may have to be replaced. Just did mine and when I pulled them out they had severe cracks trough them. Replaced those, and now my Cats are throwing a code. A discussion prior to my KS repair, I was told bad cats could possibly be linked to KS failure. Not sure on the validity of that statement.

Only reason I bring up your cats, is you talked about a rotten egg smell in one of your early posts. Been reading all day about cats, and the rotten egg smell is a possible sign.

That many miles, and haven't replaced KS or Cats yet, and it may be due time. I'd start with the KS (assuming you are still getting that code).

I am going to try a ign coil change out on cyl 6 next. Not getting that rotten egg smell anymore, and I think the KS are just tripping because of the added vibration of the misfires.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Stay tuned.

Why not just switch CP 6 with another and see if the code follows?

Would anyone happen to have those diagnostic procedures that elwesso mentioned on 12/27/06? The images are not showing up on the screen.

I am having a similar problem to the topic that was discussed in this thread. I am getting the TCS OFF and SlIP lights, along with a Service Engine Soon light (code P1320).

(as background, I have 226K on my '97 Y33).

Thus far I have replaced the spark plugs, one of the ignition coils, knock sensors and fuel filter; nevertheless, I still have the inconsistent skip (occurs more often when transitioning from stable load to increased load). Thus far, it seems as though I have been chasing the codes. Plugs changed first, problem persisted. Had error code indicating cylinder 1 misfire, replaced ignition coil on 1. Next had knock sensor code, so I changed knock sensors. Now I am down to only P1320 along with TCS Off/SLIP. I suspect it is another one of the coils that has degraded to a point that it is causing the occasional misfire (speculation on my part). Does anyone know what the Ohm reading should be on properly functioning ignition coils? Looking in the FSM, it simply says to replace if it reads 0 Ohms.

I appreciate any help that you can give.

Those roving misfires are very common on the Y33. Sadly, the blanket approach of replacing all 8 (or in your case the other 7) seems to be the best long term solution. I have no idea what Wes had in those pictures, but you best bet is to get your factory service manual, available at www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

I think the '97 manual is incomplete, but the '98 should be similar enough.

Good luck!

Heath

Thanks Heath. Yes, I plan on walking through the steps outlined in the FSM for the '98 to see if I can get this resolved.

I think you are right. More than likely, I will end up coming back and replacing the other 7; nevertheless, I am going to test the coils on the off chance that one of them returns a reading substantially different than the others.

Have you (or anyone else reading this) had any experience ordering parts from OrderInfinitiParts.com? I see that they have the OEM coils for $78 each, which is the best price I have found online. InfinitiPartsUSA and AutoPartsWarehouse.com were in the $82 to $85 range.

I have never heard of them... Might be worth calling Infiniti of Scottsdale (infinitipartsusa) and asking to speak to Joe. He's the manager there, and I suspect he would be willing to price match that other site and take good care of you.

Heath

I'll let you know how it goes...I went ahead and used OrderInfinitiParts.com.

I did a little research on them and the website is owned by Sonic Automotive (which is owned by Bruton Smith), which owns Infiniti of Charlotte. Out of curiosity, I checked the price on Infiniti of Charlotte's website, needless to say they did not offer that same price.

Hopefully, installing the additional 7 new coils will resolve my skip and get the SES light to go off.

Please let us know how it goes, and where it's shipping from as well. If it's in Charlotte, that would reduce my shipping times greatly if they have good customer service. When I googled their toll free number it came up somewhere in NY, so it'll be interesting to see.

Thanks!

Heath

Heath,
The parts were shipped from Fort Mill, SC today. Fed Ex is showing the estimated delivery date as tomorrow.

There was a couple day delay in shipping as they did not have 7 coils in stock. That said, they did email me and let me know there would be a slight delay.

Thus far, I am pleased with the service. I will post tomorrow as to whether or not everything was in order upon receipt.

Dan

I'd be interested to know the actual address of the business. If it's in Ft. Mill, that's in SC and they'd have to charge sales tax to sell to me - but if it's just over the border in Charlotte, then it might be the best of both worlds with one day shipping times. I have a lot of loyalty built up with Infiniti of Scottsdale, but that would be very tempting...

Heath

Heath,
I will let you know when I see the package...I missed the FedEx guy today. Hopefully, that will not occur again tomorrow.

Dan

Turns out the seller's address was Matthews, NC. So there should not be any sales tax for you.

If nothing else, this could be an alternative source for you when you need something quick and don't want to pay overnight charges.

Shipping for me was only $19 compared to the estimate of $60 from AZ.

All the coils were OEM as indicated.

Hopefully, once I get these installed, the skip will disappear.

Dan

Looks like it's Infiniti of Charlotte then... they're located in Matthews at 9103 E. Independence Blvd.

Definitely let us know how replacing the coils works out for you.

Thanks!

Heath

Yes, that was the street address.

The skip seems to be gone; however, I still have the "TCS Off", "SLIP" and "Service Engine Soon" indicators on. Since I don't have a reader to clear the codes myself, I am currently in the 24 hour period with the battery disconnected to see if that clears the codes for me.