Y33 A/C cooling issue

[NightRiderQ45]

Here is my issue. Not a big issue, but enough for me to bring to the nobel clan. My a/c cools quite well at this point since the weather has been between 75-85 degrees here. Yesterday it hit 96 degrees and that's where I noticed my problem. If I'm sitting at a light, the air that blows out isn't that cold. But once I pull off from the light or jump on the interstate, the air starts to blow cold again. I've only noticed this on very hot days. Since i'm in Oklahoma, I have more days like this coming. I noticed this last year but I thought that it was just my imagination. Have anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking that I need to charge up the freon.

[maxnix]

Check your auxiliary condenser fan operation.

If you have lost R134a, you need to determine from where.

[NightRiderQ45]

Check your auxiliary condenser fan operation.

If you have lost R134a, you need to determine from where.

Thanks...will do. As far as R134a, I highly doubt that it's leaking somewhere, I just figured that if it hasn't been charged since 1998 production date, it would need to be charged since it's been 10 years.

[bullittandy]

The electric fan up front should trun on when the A/C is turned on.

Although I'm not sure if the fan is variable speed and rlated to temp or just turns on with the A/C compressor. Knowing this car i bet it varies with temp and speed.

[Q45tech]

AC systems typically last only <10 years without system mainteance.

Oxidation and dirt builds up anywhere air flows acting as insulation reducing performance.

Based on days of use per year, the system probably loses 5% performance per year until cleaned and rehabed.

[maxnix]

Yeah, no mention of cabin air filter replacement.

[qship96]

Many possibilities for your issue.

Check fan clutch operation, should lock up at idle in hot weather to pull more air through condensor/radiator, then progressivly enter free wheeling mode as your speed increases and wind cools down thermostatic spring in fan clutch.Mine lasted about 9 years.

Check/clean condensor and especially evaporator cores {evaporator core collects a greasy matted coating similar to a clothes dryer lint screen which partially blocks and insulates airflow}

Evacuate/vacuum/recharge r123 to EXACT weight specced in manual and have any leaks found repaired during the process.

Finally, if you complete ALL THREE of the above and still dont get factory specced cooling, chances are your compressor is worn and not operating at 100% efficiency- replace it with genuine Nissan part from Joe before it gets worse and spews its guts through the entire cooling system requiring a costly difficult cleaning/replacement of condensor and evaporator.

[NightRiderQ45]

Thanks everyone for the responses!! Q45Tech, that makes sense what you stated. I was thinking the same thing also. Maxnix, no I haven't changed out the cabin air filter yet. I know this is something that I need to do, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I didn't think that would cause cooling issues. qship96, thanks for the detailed write up. I will go through each step and keep everyone updated.

[maxnix]

Maxnix, no I haven't changed out the cabin air filter yet. I know this is something that I need to do, but haven't gotten around to it yet. I didn't think that would cause cooling issues.

Oh, but it will! Change it soon and see! Especially if it is over a year old.
Modified by maxnix at 5:41 AM 8/13/2008

[NightRiderQ45]

Oh, but it will! Change it soon and see! Expecially if it is over a year old.

Sounds good. I purchased my car in Jan. 05 and have not changed it yet so it's about time for that service. I just went to everythinginfiniti and I think I found the part (cabin air filter) that I need. It's $29.29 on their website. Is it the correct part? It's only showing one on the pic, but the Y33's needs two correct? I couldn't find it in the FSM. Pic is below:

[maxnix]

The part number includes two filters. Might as well order two, save on shipping and have a spare on hand when you need it next year.

3 years is a long time, as you will see.

[NightRiderQ45]

I just got off the phone with IOS and they told me that $29.29 price does include two filters! I will put in my order tomorrow. Thanks!

[bullittandy]

I don't think that your current problem has much to do with the cabin filter. your symptoms don't match up, blowing cold at speed and warm at idle-that is an engine air speed issue. I also have first hand expereince with a COMPLETELY clogged cabin filter and an ice cold A/C system.

That being said, you will be glad when you see yours-and then change it!!!!

There are two electric fans up front and both appear to be related to cooling the engine, as opposed to one being the A/C fan and the other the overheat fan (at least on my 97 FSM diagram). The only way to check the fan operation is two use the CONSULT but the parts that could theoretically break are the fuses, fan relays and fans. Of those I would highly supect a fuse or relay first. I'd try checking fuses and then swapping relays. The relays are the same as the headlight relays on my 99 and different on my 97-so who knows on your 98?

Good luck!

[bigdog76]

Would a bad fan clutch cause it to run hotter at idle?

I just cleaner my condenser about 3 weeks ago. the air is cooler but it still runs hotter at idle what is suspect now???

[IceCubeFoSho]

I've got the same problem in my Y33, I'm gonna try some of y'alls ideas.

Oh and I did change my Cabin Filter, while not any real performance increase, I was amazed to see the spiders and crap in there, and if you need help, I kinda took a video with my cameraphone of the whole job so you can pretty much do what I'm doing.

Its pretty funny when I realised what I was aiming for wasn't the air filter, and when you buy a box from your dealer of the filters, it normally comes in a 2-pack

[Mopar]

Guys,

not to threadjack or something, but I need to change my cabin filter too. Could you please tell me where it's located and how to take it off/change it. It would be a great help!

[maxnix]

I need to change my cabin filter too. Could you please tell me where it's located and how to take it off/change it. It would be a great help!

RTFSM. Very Explicit. About 4 previous threads here also.

[IceCubeFoSho]

I never really found those threads helpful, PM me later and I'll upload my videos so you can get an idea of how to do it

[maxnix]

I never really found those threads helpful...

One would have to be blind for that to be true! Even the profoundly illiterate can succeed by only following the illustrations in the FSM, which is more than sufficient for the most mechanically challenged 10 thumbed cubicle dweller. The posts are justto smooth out the pablum a wee little bit more.
Modified by maxnix at 5:42 AM 8/13/2008

[NightRiderQ45]

Thanks for the reply everyone. This thread has more than enough info to narrow down the problem. I see that I'm not the only one who is having this issue.

[xmateo]

Check fan clutch operation, should lock up at idle in hot weather to pull more air through condensor/radiator, then progressivly enter free wheeling mode as your speed increases and wind cools down thermostatic spring in fan clutch.Mine lasted about 9 years.

I'm suspecting a problem with the Fan Clutch - I can get it to wobble when at rest after the engine runs hot. There is a progressively louder hiss or rubbing noise. What were the signs of your Fan Clutch failure and did you replace it yourself?

[IceCubeFoSho]

Well when I turn my A/C on, I hear something going clug clug clug clug clug clug like an older motor, any idea on what the source of that noise is?

[xmateo]

Do you need a new ac compressor clutch? That's what I'm faced with now - see

see: zer...43502