Today I was driving and the Xterra stumbled.
Loss of power for a moment (1-1.5 secs) and pushing the throttle harder seemed to have little effect until a moment later issue disappeared.
I was driving up a slight hill at the time.
Vehicle was fully warmed up.

The symptom was similar to a slipping transmission except that wasnt it, since the tranny wasnt slipping.
No codes lit.

Comments please?

Water shifted in gas tank , due to hill . Water bolus flowed momentarily to rail , injectors , then bogged motor for a 1.5 second chug-a-lug moment ?
Condensation's a bi-atche

Could have been debris in-and-out of the MAF, too. That never leaves any codes because the ECM has no cross-check for MAF function. See if there's any crud in your airbox that may have got past the filter.

Hmmm, great points guys.
I had been driving thru a mildly dusty area just prior and also of course Florida is very humid.

Clean your MAF and vac that airbox (and new filter).

Since then I got a SES and also engine died (yesterday).
Code reads Camshaft position sensors bank B
In order to get the quality forum recommended part I will have to wait until Monday for replacement.

If you need it to run in the mean time, disconnect both cam sensors. If only one CMP is bad they won't run, but if both are bad they'll start and run using the CKP. Dunno why, I suppose it's just Hitachi being weird with the ECM firmware.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 15, 2022 9:20 am

If only one CMP is bad they won't run, but if both are bad they'll start and run using the CKP. Dunno why, I suppose it's just Hitachi being weird with the ECM firmware.

So you doubt the diagnosis that only one of them is bad?
Should I do both?

Remember I do not have your skill+ knowledge to just buy the part and put it in myself and I am paying a shop to do it (albeit one of the cheaper ones in town).

Also:
Is it bad for it to run with this SES on?
Will the ECU run it overly rich in the meantime?

I dont want to put any undue wear on the cats given the milage of the car...

I could run my pathfinder instead but that is a vehicle I try to keep on road only and I was going to go on some dirt roads this weekend for the range.
I usually reserve that for the Xterra.

Also Bank "B" is passenger side yes?

Common practice is to replace both Cam sensors and the Crank sensor all at the same time. Usually if one fails, the others aren't far behind and you'll be right back in the same boat. Obviously always replace with Nissan OEM sensors too. I've been through the issue on 5 separate vehicles and it always ends up the same way. I just did a full set this past week. They're not impossible to replace yourself, but worth saving yourself the frustration and letting a mechanic do them if you're already considering it. Sensors will probably run you about $250-300 through the dealer and a good mechanic shouldn't charge more than a couple of hours of labor to install them.

I'd follow VStars recommendation until you can do them all, if you need to run the vehicle in the meantime. In my experience the vehicle will still operate with them plugged up and only one bad, but it will shut down randomly every 20-30 miles and usually in the worst place possible. You then have to let it sit for a bit, then it'll restart and you can resume again for about the same time.

I'll stick to my Pathfinder then in the meantime

Is there any economy of labor when the crank sensor are changed same time?

PalmerWMD wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 15, 2022 2:23 pm

Is there any economy of labor when the crank sensor are changed same time?

Well they're in 3 different locations, all equally annoying to reach - so typically no in the labor guides I've used.

The Crank sensor is accessed through the passenger side wheel well, near the lower rear of the engine and requires removing the wheel and inner fender liner. Oddly enough, that's the one I prefer to change when I do them. The Camshaft sensors are located in the back of each cylinder head and the passenger side one is a royal pain to deal with if you don't have small hands or some very specific tools. You have to snake your left arm through coolant hoses and hard lines to barely reach it. The drivers side is not too awful, so I would say that would be the one if they were going to discount any labor.

Fair warning - if they happen to tell you some coolant fittings break while replacing the sensors, don't be surprised. The composite fittings/adapters going into the heater core are typically brittle on them and can be prone to breaking when stressed. Not saying it will be their fault, but it could happen as a part of the job.

OK.

Looks like nothing else broke during install.
replaced only the right bank.
Why?
No labor overlap with the other sensors.
This is not something that will strand me with no warning so if it happens again i can just redo it.

To each their own. Glad you got it sorted out.

PalmerWMD wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:31 pm

This is not something that will strand me with no warning so if it happens again i can just redo it.

Don't be so sure about that not leaving you stranded with no warning part. You got pretty lucky with how this one treated you. Hopefully the next one is this nice too

My want to do what I did with our old PT Cruiser, just keep spares in the glove box.

Yesterday I got another stumble.
Thats how it started last time.
Likely the other bank going..

Replaced the drivers side camshaft sensor also now.

Kompresshun wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 15, 2022 2:01 pm

Obviously always replace with Nissan OEM sensors too. I've been through the issue on 5 separate vehicles and it always ends up the same way. I just did a full set this past week.

This is true on so many car brands! OEM is the best way to ensure you only do the job once and don't have weird problems later. Ask me how I know

Niti QX4 wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 24, 2022 6:43 am

Kompresshun wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 15, 2022 2:01 pm

Obviously always replace with Nissan OEM sensors too. I've been through the issue on 5 separate vehicles and it always ends up the same way. I just did a full set this past week.

This is true on so many car brands! OEM is the best way to ensure you only do the job once and don't have weird problems later. Ask me how I know

Since then I did the crank shaft position sensor also.
Hitachi which is the OME supplier

Now one of my cats is also going out.
it never ends but that's ok when you consider how many $$$ a newer body on frame mid size SUV would cost , that offers no higher functionality than my Trusty Xterra/pathfinder pair.