WTF!? ninja rust =(

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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driven_
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alright guys i just bought my new and 2nd s14.i looked at it at night with a flashlight and noticed it was clean.but i have some issues now.

i have rust on the red line here (not actual picture, i know its an s13, but its on my s14)

its not on the "unbody frame" or the "frame rail" but instead on the tower wall. can it be welded and still be strong? or what?help!

i also have rust on that lump under the rear passenger driver seat (by where the rear driver passenger side's feet would go)

help!

EDIT:what about this stuff? "Restogrip Body Filler"

says it helps with holes in high-stress areas.

"RestoGRIP Body Filler is specifically designed for applications that require more strength, such as bridging holes, or filling high-stress areas. RestoGRIP Body Filler is loaded with tiny polyester fibers, which makes it many times stronger than ordinary body fillers. Use RestoGRIP with POR-15, to make permanent repairs to rust holes or deep pits in steel or galvanized steel. Then, use STRAIGHTLINE BODY FILLER to finish off the repair for the ultimate smooth final finish.

Now you've got the superior body fillers you always wanted, engineered for use with POR-15. Try them for yourself! After you've worked so hard on your car, does it make any sense to use an inferior body filler that costs a few bucks less? Both STRAIGHTLINE and RestoGRIP are supplied in special tins which house the body filler in the bottom and the re-sealable hardener in an insert tray on top....no separate tubes to lose. "
Modified by driven_ at 2:31 PM 2/3/2009


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presidential
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Hey, I know that car. :D

StandardProspect
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Doesent sound too bad. Probably from a leaky bmc. Milwaukee motorwerks specializes in 240s and bimmers. I've had them do rust repair for me and was very satisfied with the work/price

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driven_
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StandardProspect wrote:Doesent sound too bad. Probably from a leaky bmc. Milwaukee motorwerks specializes in 240s and bimmers. I've had them do rust repair for me and was very satisfied with the work/price
what/where was this rust that you had repaired? and how much did it cost you?

i also found some sort of gasket/seal on there between the hardlines.

its like about 5mm by 5mm.

i cant currently get pictures because my computer is being gay.

but does anyone know what that might be?

sommmatt
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Mine is rusting there. I'm gonna cut it out and weld a plate in. No big deal. Common S13 rust spot.

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driven_
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sommmatt wrote:Mine is rusting there. I'm gonna cut it out and weld a plate in. No big deal. Common S13 rust spot.
i have an s14. but i get the idea. haha.

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glitched
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does it look like this yet?


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driven_
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glitched wrote:does it look like this yet?
not THAT bad, but its on the verge.(it does have a hole though)

but the picture is muy correcto.

hbpignosePA
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mines startin to look like that

grr i hate rust

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dblanehopr
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sommmatt wrote: Common S13 rust spot.
i've seen one so bad, the tower was riding free from the body. dumbass was still drivin it around.

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driven_
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ACTUAL photo of my car =(




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r34 gtr
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You can fix it, but I wouldn't wait very long to do it. Its going to involve fabricating some new bits to replace where you have to cut all that shizz out.

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driven_
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bump? =(

StandardProspect
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I needed both of my frame rails patched along with 5 other rust holes . it was $350. they even coat the areas they weld with truck bed liner. those guys are awesome. one guy there has a rb26 powered hatch.

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Warped161
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i had rust there on my s13, i treated it with por15 and actually patched the hole with jbweld.

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driven_
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StandardProspect wrote:I needed both of my frame rails patched along with 5 other rust holes . it was $350. they even coat the areas they weld with truck bed liner. those guys are awesome. one guy there has a rb26 powered hatch.
hmm.that sounds like a nice price.how big were your 5 holes.and where were they.Lol.i need to guesstimate a price.

StandardProspect
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Some holes I could fit my fist through. All on the floorpans. I would guess they would charge you <$100 for that

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SullivanRacing06
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go ahead and run a think weld bead over it and grind it down clean and paint over it, you will never be able to tell it was there

painengaged
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well any weld is stronger then steel (if done right)

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Justin35ll
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Had that same problem on my first shell. Wasn't that bad though just a small rust spot. Didn't do anything about it and then sold it, new shell is nice doesn't have any holes there

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driven_
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StandardProspect wrote:Some holes I could fit my fist through. All on the floorpans. I would guess they would charge you <$100 for that
haha i hope so.

my floor is starting to rot too.i should run hopefully no more than 500.i'll stop by sometime.do they do free quotes/estimates?

StandardProspect
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yea, the guys are super cool. I just go over there and hang out sometimes. lol

and yes, free quotes. Ill be there friday. My baby is going in for round two, and then i will be pretty much rust free

cody180sx
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watch your brake fluid mine does that also leaks fluid very slowly and eats the paint way and make it rust right there

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driven_
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bump.more tips.not enuff!

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driven_
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aw man,

more halp anyone?

Bstrd240SX
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i didnt see anyone explicitly say it so here goes:

that restogrip stuff is NOT capable of repairing this hole AT ALL.

its what the collision industry would refer to as "kitty hair" .... a bondo that has strands in it to kelp keep it together for areas that require a thick coat of filler or for areas where your doing hack repair work to COSMETIC rust holes ... say on a fender lip or a rocker panel hole

the ONLY proper way to do this repair is to weld it up. the only way to make it strong is to fuly weld in a patch and DONT grind it overly smooth whne your done.

some people get TO into the idea of grinding something perfectly flat. ive seen it a god awful number of times with newbies at the shop i work at.

since this is not a cosmetic placement to the repair, dont grind the final weld all the way down, leave a tiny bit of a ridge to the weld, then finish the repair with some primer, a scuffing with a red scotch brite, and then a skim coat of filler to blend it in invisable

you car will be properly repaired, and your weld will be 100% rock solid because the patch wasnt ground to thin in any areas

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hpmachine
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I've said this so many times... - if you are planning to spend over 350$ on rust repair, keep the money and buy a welder. It can be a little intimidating but the amount you'll learn and the money you'll save will be sooooo worth it. Just do it.

Bstrd240SX
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and a welding book or video to go with it!

a 110v mig and a bottle of shielding gas are tools youll wonder how you lived without after you get practiced at welding

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hpmachine
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And then you can start making money off all the other sad suckers that though jb-welding their POS frames together was a good idea. LOL

Bstrd240SX
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nevermind
Modified by Bstrd240SX at 11:27 PM 2/7/2009


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