wtf? 3 cylinders dirty, 1 pristine - help?

[aintnobiscuit]

My CA runs strong, no issues, except the head gasket weeps a little. I have ARP head studs and I didn't read the FSM about them until after I installed. I pulled the head to put a new head gasket and do the ARPs right and this is what I found. I'm not sure if 3 cylinders are running right and one is not getting any spark/fuel or if 1 is sealed properly and the other 3 are dirty from burning oil. What are your thoughts? The static compression is 140 (i have aftermarket cams). It runs fine. Literally the only issue i've had was that the head gasket weeped from the back so I was taking it off to change it. Now I am not going to put it back on until I know what the issue is because I have a LOT of money in this motor and I can't afford to blow it.

Car runs great, there's never any hesitation... so I had no idea anything weird was going on. What do you think is going on?

3 cylinders have carbon and s***, the 4th is pristine. Car runs 13afr idling and 11 afr under boost. It's not fully tuned yet, the weeping head gasket posponed my next dyno session and I've been doing flares and s*** so I haven't been back yet.

head


block

[boost_boy]

That cylinder is too clean. You may be over-fueling with coolant, but that is way too clean. The other cylinders are as expected. I would start with getting the injectors checked as set and document which injector came from where.

[aintnobiscuit]

Makes sense. I was worried about these injectors. It looked like they were drilled out or something. I checked them and they all fire and have a conical shape, but I guess I'll just purchase new injectors... (was considering the 700cc area). Since I trust you're input, what injectors do you run boost boy? I'm running gasoline btw.

[mdb4879]

If water was leaking into the cylinder via the head gasket that could cause that cylinder to be clean. The water basically steam cleaned the cylinder.

[mdb4879]

Did you put an extra washer under the nut for the stud over the water pump? If not then that could be part of why that cylinder didn't seal well (I'm just assuming that's where the coolant leak you were talking about was)

[aintnobiscuit]

There was no coolant leaking visibly, only oil and it appeared to come from the side and rear of the block on the turbo side. I researched my injectors after I bought them and found out the were "remanufactured" to be larger cc injectors. It's shady.

So I'm definitely interested in opinions of what injectors are best or what other people are running.

[Izento]

I'm using Deatschwerks 750s. Seems to be doing their job.

[float_6969]

Honestly, that's too clean to just be lean. That cylinder HAD to be ingesting some coolant as well. If it were my motor I would do the following;
Put a Felpro HG on there
Install Head with extra washer on stud over water pump (I leave the stock washer's in place in all of the studs, and then use the included ARP washer on that stud as well)
Get some Deatchwerks injectors (I'm running 1200CC's on E85 and it runs great. I also ran a set of 550's from them on a KA-T I built)

[aintnobiscuit]

Never seen this before so it was really confusing. I'll go pick up some Deatschwerks. I'll make sure I put an extra washer on the stud next to the thermostat housing too.

Is this the correct Felpro gasket you use?

Part#: 9563PT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-9563PT- ... 4ac328f4ac

Edit: Any special prep I should do prior to installing this next head gasket? How should i clean the old head gasket residue off without messing up the surface?

[boost_boy]

I use MSD/Rochester type injectors that are rated at or around 1000cc. Since these cars can be driven daily, a 1000cc injector is maximum for me as fuel economy truly sucks in this range.

[float_6969]

Yea, that's the HG I use.

Dee, aren't those High Impedance Injectors?

[r34 gtr]

To clean off the gasket material, I usually use a razor blade. Be super careful though as it can be easy to score up the head if you slip.

When you stack those washers make sure to put the smaller one on top. I think the stock washers have a beveled edge, so that might be the one you want on top. You will just want to create as much clearance as possible for the lifters.

I guess it doesn't really matter what impedance injectors Dee uses, as he is running a stand alone EMS.

[aintnobiscuit]

Yeah, with stand alone you can run whatever you want, you either add resistors if necessary or you don't.

Thanks for the info guys! I'll let you know how it goes. Next purchase is a gtx3071r. I picked up some SARD 800s. My tuner said those are much better than the deatschwerks I was looking at... i always thought deatschwerks were good but i've never used them. As soon as everything is together again I'll try to schedule a tune so I can put up a dyno sheet. yay!

[boost_boy]

Yea, that's the HG I use.

Dee, aren't those High Impedance Injectors?

No you got me to thinking I believe that these are low impedance injectors, but my dumb@$$ have an injector resistor on them I'll check this when I get home today. Man, I feel so retarded right now..

[aintnobiscuit]

a buddy did that installing an sr20. he put resistors on even though they are high z stock. i lolled and then we took them off. his car drove better

[float_6969]

Yeah, with stand alone you can run whatever you want, you either add resistors if necessary or you don't.

Thanks for the info guys! I'll let you know how it goes. Next purchase is a gtx3071r. I picked up some SARD 800s. My tuner said those are much better than the deatschwerks I was looking at... i always thought deatschwerks were good but i've never used them. As soon as everything is together again I'll try to schedule a tune so I can put up a dyno sheet. yay!

I think you're tuner is talking out of his a**. COUNTLESS people on NICO have run Detchwerks injectors without issue. Not to say that SARD is bad, but I'd like to know what he's basing his opinion on.

[aintnobiscuit]

His personal experience with deatschwerks, that's all. He had a couple customers come in with deatschwerks that didn't flow the same so he had to add trim to individual cylinders to be able to tune the car properly. No idea if they were used or new.

[float_6969]

That's weird because the VERY close tolerance that Deatschwerks holds their injectors to is one of their selling points. They're so confident about it that they include a sheet with your injectors verifying YOUR injectors individual flow rates. IIRC, they're usually w/in a couple of percent of each other.

Anyway, it's not a big deal I guess, that's just the first time I've ever heard anyone have anything but good things to say about them.

[boost_boy]

My CA runs strong, no issues, except the head gasket weeps a little. I have ARP head studs and I didn't read the FSM about them until after I installed. I pulled the head to put a new head gasket and do the ARPs right and this is what I found. I'm not sure if 3 cylinders are running right and one is not getting any spark/fuel or if 1 is sealed properly and the other 3 are dirty from burning oil. What are your thoughts? The static compression is 140 (i have aftermarket cams). It runs fine. Literally the only issue i've had was that the head gasket weeped from the back so I was taking it off to change it. Now I am not going to put it back on until I know what the issue is because I have a LOT of money in this motor and I can't afford to blow it.

Car runs great, there's never any hesitation... so I had no idea anything weird was going on. What do you think is going on?

3 cylinders have carbon and s***, the 4th is pristine. Car runs 13afr idling and 11 afr under boost. It's not fully tuned yet, the weeping head gasket posponed my next dyno session and I've been doing flares and s*** so I haven't been back yet.

head


block

Is it me or does his exhaust studs look weird? And secondly, do you have stainless steel valves?

[aintnobiscuit]

IDK if the exhaust studs were changed out at some point.

I have SS and iconel valves. I tried to find the best of the best for everything i put into the car... i really want to do a good job building this b****... Ordering the GTX3071R after work !!!!!!!!

Do you run stock valves? I put dual valve springs with titanium hats and replaced all the lifters, retainers, guides and valve stem seals with brand new OEM stuff.

[boost_boy]

I run stock valves. They get a good valve job and get re-used on all of my heads. The stock valves are up to the task and are holding up pretty good at nearly 600hp as well as the stock rods and .020 nissan pistons. It's all about how you build it, tune it and drive it. I have a pretty competent machinist, so I get to focus more on what I do best and that's build and tune.

[Izento]

That's weird because the VERY close tolerance that Deatschwerks holds their injectors to is one of their selling points. They're so confident about it that they include a sheet with your injectors verifying YOUR injectors individual flow rates. IIRC, they're usually w/in a couple of percent of each other.

My personal injector sheet from Deatschwerks. Not even 1% difference on static flow. Also, under dynamic, I have a mark of the beast injector!

[float_6969]

I was going to try and post the same thing for my injectors, but I can't find the damn picture.

[aintnobiscuit]

HAHAHA!!! 666!!!

Wow, holy F... that's amazing information to have for your injectors. That is one of the first things I noticed when I was on their site. They have a lot of readily available information for each injector. The first thing I did was pull up injector dead times, which was simple from their site. I'm hoping the SARD injectors come with the dead times at least. IDK because I have never purchased new injectors before, they have always been re-manufactured.

I think we all know the typical tuner doesn't care about quality and will throw crappy parts on just because it costs less, which is why I was suggesting the injectors were probably bad, used, had dirt stuck in them... who knows.

I'm buying the GTX3071R next friday! W00t! I have steel braided coolant lines and an oil feed line. I'm curious what you guys are doing for your oil drain. I just have a standard braided hose (not steel) that runs from the turbo down to the oil pan. What do you run?

Also, for the crank case ventilation system, I am recirculating the PCV into the intake manifold (stock). Since I am running a MAP sensor, I have to sort out the other rocker cover's vent. I was just going to get some PVC or metal and connect that piping to the compressor inlet. Then connect the vent tube to the hole in the piping to try and replicate stock... Does this make sense? Any input on this setup? I've read all the threads on PCV systems for the CA and SR and I couldn't think of any way to improve the system minus creating vacuum via the exhaust or a vacuum pump to help evacuate the gasses.

[float_6969]

I'm using this for my oil drain; http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=2754. I get it from NAPA. It's like EVERYTHING proof. Good stuff. I'm also using it for the PCV system.

The stock setup works for the PCV system. Just make sure you connect the exhaust side to the pipe between the compressor inlet and the air filter somewhere and you should be fine.

[aintnobiscuit]

Ok. I skipped the FSM tightening procedure and only followed the tightening sequence. I put an extra washer over the thermostat stud. I installed all the studs and tightened them in 3 steps up to 85ft/lbs. any other suggestions at this point before I start setting the timing and installing the intake manifold?

I know boost_boy had mentioned the above in another thread

[boost_boy]

Yea, that's the HG I use.

Dee, aren't those High Impedance Injectors?

Thanks for trying to make feel retarded . The resistors on the SDS is for low impedance injectors and high impedance injectors does not require a resistor. So I do indeed have low impedance injectors and I do have resistors, so all is well in the hood or under the hood, should I say

[aintnobiscuit]

Hey Dee, the info above is correct right? I'm supposed to just torque the ARPs down once.

Do not torque and re-torque 3 times, heat cycle and check torque?

I'm trying to make sure I do this properly and trust your input very much someone mentioned the head BOLTS are NOT torque to yield and can be reused. Does anyone know if this is actually the case?

[float_6969]

DEFINITELY retorque after a few heat cycles. My APR's loosened up and the HG started to leak oil. As soon as I retorqued them the oil leak stopped. I'm lucky I didn't get any coolant/oil mixing going on.

[aintnobiscuit]

So run the car until it warms up, then check and re torque the studs a couple times but no need to follow the torque, completely loosen 3 times procedure?