Write-up: Replacing front lower control arms on 13s

[vancouverbc]

thanks:)

Control arm-front lower control arm replacement

1991-1994 240sx TUTORIALS

I added it to my list of tutorials in alphabetic order. I listed it under control. If there is a better way to index it let me know. I can index it more than one way as well.

Modified by vancouverbc at 12:11 AM 10/19/2007
Modified by vancouverbc at 12:13 AM 10/19/2007

[mchkc240]

Nice man that's hella good. You should ask the mod if they can make that page as sticky. So it will be alot more easier to find them. Thanks for putting it up.

[Dammitboy]

Curious, where did you get your control arms?

[vancouverbc]

Nice man that's hella good. You should ask the mod if they can make that page as sticky. So it will be alot more easier to find them. Thanks for putting it up.

Thanks.

You could put a link in your signature. Youd have to add a "[" to beginning .

url=zerothread/253879]1991-1994 240sx TUTORIALS[/url]

they have a tech page link at top that lists articles by category. most people are only interested in what rims to buy so repair articles are a very low priority.

[240Knightrider]

yokota needs to get laid. Simple as that.

[yokota180sx]

im married, and get laid on a regular basis, were reproducing!

[desiman76]

Yup I do the same with the hammer. but remember one thing, tools were invented for a reason. In this case if you cannot use those speicial tools then hammer away. Remember everytime you use a hammer near the bearings you will likely reduce the life of the bearing cause it possible to damage the balls..

So a real good technical mechanic will generally never use a hammer in this area. Just for information only.... I use a hammer cause i get lazy but of course, i have done that on some of my other cars and i ended up hearing the funny sound of a hum because the bearing started to fail..also had experience of going to mechanics to get the breaks done and I see them hammering away to remove disc etc and after that ...the bearing fails

well lets just put things into perspective.... we all get lazy and we hammer but i close my eyes everytime i see someone do it cause its not the way to do it. Especailly when im doing it. Those tools are easy to use when they fit.

Im going to find out soon, i hammered this summer trying to remove a front disc on a 240sx stored for a year ....the metal just bonded...so I hammered after the jacking screws sheared off ...did not work and i used the cutter to grind the disc off and put a new one on....so well shall see how long the bearing will last before it gets annoying hum sound.

[desiman76]

Ball joints replacement are available without having to change the arm. My experience is that the new part maybe loose on the arm after installation because of wear on the locating diameter where the ball joint sits. Usually happens because of wear and rust. Based on experience, after installing a joint in i found that i had to have it spot welded on the arm but that only last a few hours....the dufus...did not do a good job. I had to put a new arm with the ball joint in it. In canada it cost me 180 dollar per arm. Thats expensive. Im considering taking the old arm and weld metal in the locating diameter to remove the clearance and put in a new joint for spare....

[240Knightrider]

im married, and get laid on a regular basis, were reproducing!

Scary thought

Just kidding, congrats on the little one.

[Sushiadct]

It is easy to do... but I've jacked plenty of stuff up, but not knowing exactly what to do. Before this year I've known nothing about cars, but thanks to write-ups, I have changed my brakes, calipers, rotors, timing, and am about to finish replacing my clutch. Things look simple like yes.... take off the bolts and put them back, but that is not always the case. On something like this, yes there is not much more 2 it. But write-ups like this, help newbs like me.
Modified by Sushiadct at 9:04 PM 10/25/2007

[positron1]

It is easy to do... but I've jacked plenty of stuff up, but not knowing exactly what to do. Before this year I've known nothing about cars, but thanks to write-ups, I have changed my brakes, calipers, rotors, timing, and am about to finish my garage. Things look simple like yes.... take off the bolts and put them back, but that is not always the case. On something like this, yes there is not much more 2 it. But write-ups like this, help newbs like me.

Agreed, the manuals are good at giving instructions on removing and reassembly but they hardly give any advice when the "problems" happen so that's why I like the "written for the everyday guy/gal" writeups especially with the pics. We always take better pictures than those manuals.

[98s14inaz]

One thing I will add is to put a nut on the thread of the joint you are hammering on otherwise you risk ruining the threads rendering your ball joint useless.

[240sxvaj]

great write

[vancouverbc]

notes:

1. 3 lb hammer was sufficient to pound out ball joint. maybe hit it once to break rust and then let wd40 penetrate. I think there is a special tool that might be better for this. not the fork. hitting it with hammer could damage the steering tie rod.

2. definitely have something to support the knuckle as it hangs by brake line.

3. obviously , do this on flat ground.

4. I found a small pry bar useful for positioning the tension control rod bushing end when putting it back on. screwdriver would help too.

5. putting the 22 mm nut on the ball joint before hammering caused a couple problems. first, it rounded the nut so it was hard to get socket on it to remove it. second, once the ball joint is out, the bolt part rotates with the nut so had to use locking plier to hold ball joint as i tried to undo nut. however, if you pound on the ball joint bolt , you prolly wont be able to get nut back on it. I couldnt. easier to pound out without the nut attached.

6. tension control rod definitley has to be removed.

7. it is better to leave tension control rod and control arm in place until you remove the 22 mm nut because otherwise the knuckle is just hanging there and you have no leverage.

8. definitely needed a long breaker bar. at least 2 ft long for leverage for several of the bolts.

Modified by vancouverbc at 12:01 AM 8/21/2008
Modified by vancouverbc at 12:07 AM 8/21/2008

[vancouverbc]

Is it a problem that the stabalizer bar end link bushings are crushed to one side. the ones that are under the control arm.

Inside the ball joint, the grease had the viscosity of clay.

[hbpignosePA]

this thread is amusing....yokota what is your email?

i wanted to know if you could find me some parts

u can email me at [email protected]

[KillTheApex]

I just had the worst day working on my car I ever have. Make certain you follow the recommended tools, unlike my dumbass. Let's just say I made several trips to get things I should have had before I started. What should have taken maybe an hour or two took MUCH longer. Lesson learned.

Oh yeah, and I somehow managed to carve a vagina into the back of my hand while doing this.

[beamerpq]

thanks for the write up. any idea where i can get the control arm suspender?

[vancouverbc]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZiVnpMe_a8

[driftneil]

Sam Adams is a good beer.....Grolsch is my fave!!

You know, I need to try that. I've seen it in Kroger (near the Sam) but have yet to pick it up. A local radio station has them as a sponsor for an oktoberfest of sorts. I'm going to get some grolsch this weekend instead of sam.

Grolsch is the shiznittle, it has the coolest bottle.
This thread sucks

[240hatchsx]

Old tread but great and useful made it twice as easy than it looks