would anyone wanna trade turbos?

[Liquid_Neon]

I have 3 turbos that have various things that make them not useful to me.One is a blown stock CA T25, one is a T25 off a TT 300zx, and one is a T25 from an sr20. The 300zx and sr20 turbos both work, but the 300zx turbo doesn't fit my dump pipe flange and its just been sitting around my house wasting space.

The sr20 is the turbo i was using for a while and it boosts great, no smoke. the problem is i cannot get the exhaust housing to rotate separately from the center piece. And that caused a big problem in my fwd setup... since the flange wont rotate I cant point it 180degrees to work with fwd so my exhaust was 150% fubar.

Would anyone want these three turbos for a good working T25?(read: needs to be able to rotate so it can mount in fwd)Otherwise I'm gonna have to rebuild my stock caT25 and use that till i can afford a better one.

thx!

[mbmbmb23]

Put the SR turbo in a bench vise, spray the part that needs to rotate with PB blaster and let it sit overnight, then the next day beat on it with a rubber mallet until it rotates. (this is of course with all the bolts out that prevent it from being clocked)

[Liquid_Neon]

I worked on it a while back with a torch and a big wrench bolted to the center piece with an old coolant bolt. I used it for quite a while after this, so i didn't hurt it in case anyone's wondering.

Ill give it another go with pb blaster... but still a pain in my a**.

[mbmbmb23]

I worked on it a while back with a torch and a big wrench bolted to the center piece with an old coolant bolt. I used it for quite a while after this, so i didn't hurt it in case anyone's wondering.

Ill give it another go with pb blaster... but still a pain in my a**.

First remove the 6 bolts that hold the 3 tabs on, holding the center housing to the turbine housing. Spray the seal where it rotates with PB blaster, let the turbo sit compressor down so the PB blaster forms a puddle ring around where the center housing and turbine housing mate up. After it sits for a night like that, put the turbine flange in a bench vise (TIGHTLY) and hit the compressor outlet with a mallet in the direction you are trying to clock it. Clocking it trying to use a wrench wont work, the wrench will just flex. If the rubber mallet doesnt work, just try a peice of wood and a sledgehammer. Once again, this will only work if the turbine side is firmly held by a bench vice thats going nowhere when the compressor housing is struck.

[SkinnyKibbles]

my exhaust was 150% fubar.

The only way it should be!

[jynxtrix]

Has anyone thought about just getting the snap ring pliers out and taking the the damn snap ring out long enough to clock it CORRECTLY? Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've already rebuilt my turbo, and with that snap ring out (not hard if you pay 15.99 at napa for a set with an angled nose, and even cheaper if you clean them and take them back when finished) it will turn just fine. In 15 years of working on my own cars I have never had to use a hammer to adjust ANYTHING, if If it was being done correctly. Just food for thought.

[mbmbmb23]

Has anyone thought about just getting the snap ring pliers out and taking the the damn snap ring out long enough to clock it CORRECTLY? Maybe I'm missing something here, but I've already rebuilt my turbo, and with that snap ring out (not hard if you pay 15.99 at napa for a set with an angled nose, and even cheaper if you clean them and take them back when finished) it will turn just fine. In 15 years of working on my own cars I have never had to use a hammer to adjust ANYTHING, if If it was being done correctly. Just food for thought.

Good question. OP: Removing the bolts as I mentioned above is for clocking the compressor housing to the CHRA, the snap ring would clock the turbine housing and the CHRA.

On a related note, dont skimp on snap ring pliers...the Harbor Freight ones will break right away with this huge snap ring on the turbo.
Modified by mbmbmb23 at 11:47 PM 9/8/2009

[Liquid_Neon]

Hey guys... ive torn apart my other t25 already... i know how to get the bolts off and the c-clip to the compressor wheel.

I literally mean i cannot get the turbine to rotate or move at all in regards to the center piece...

I used a big wrench, a torch, pb blaster, wd40, GM penetrate fluid (official GM blaster basically).... a bit soft hammer.

I soaked it in PB the last day or two as well... im gonna try again but i assume the same result will occur.

So anyone wanna give up an old working T25 for any combo of these 3?

[float_6969]

I've got one that needs rebuilt? I did my last one myself, cost me like $100 IIRC. I would double check of course, but I'm pretty sure the turbine housing comes off and could be rotated.

[mbmbmb23]

It does come off...but...it maybe cockeyed and stuck. Take it to a local diesel repair place that messes with turbos (or a local turbo rebuild place) and see if they'll unstick it for you for free. Just ask nice....bring the turbo without calling ahead and smile.
Modified by mbmbmb23 at 9:11 AM 9/11/2009

[Liquid_Neon]

wish i had a local turbo place... or performance shop that wasnt a muscle car place. nothing but carbs and v8 stuff around here!

I exaggerate, but its pretty bad. The only diesel place i know of is a quarry place.