Post by
KATwo40 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/katwo40-u25350.html
Sat Mar 11, 2006 2:02 pm
As most already know, the 5spd 240sx (USDM) has a 5th gear only rev limiter, that's set to about 5200rpm. Well, I've found a way to modify this system so that it's now a very useful tool in racing the vehicle, especially for drag racing.
Following the directions below will make it so that you can use this factory installed rev limiter for either launch control (if you're brave enough to launch at 5,000rpm) or WOT shifting (meaning you don't lift your accelerator between gears). The WOT shifting is VERY useful on turbocharged KA's that need that continuous spool. It's basically a crude form of anti-lag.
Have fun with it!
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What you need:
About 6 ft. of 14-18ga. wire (preferably joined jackets...like a trailer harness wire set that has the wires all attached, and split at the ends).
One generic momentary switch with the ability to be wired one of two ways. It MUST be capable of interrupting the circuit when the switch is CLOSED (button pushed in) and then completing the circuit when the switch is OPEN (button out). Here's a photo of the switch I used. Make sure your switch has 3 prongs.
Drill (cordless is handy)5/16" metal bit1/8" metal bit
Wire connectors (2butt style or solder, 2 female spade type)Electrical tape or heat shrink
Piece of metal approx. 1/2" x 1/8" about 4-6" long.
Locate the 5th gear sensor on the passenger side of the transmission. It will be toward the rear of the trans, near the tailshaft housing. It's the sensor immediately forward of the speed input sensor. It looks like this, especially if it's leaking like mine!
(click thumbnail)
Snip the wires between the sensor and the wire terminal (plastic connector coupling). Then, separate the coupler and pigtail that you've just created. Leave the sensor plugged into the transmission.
Attach the pigtail/terminal assembly to the ends of the two wires (crimp connections work, but soldering is best). Snake the other end of the wire pair (this is where the joined jacket wire pair comes in nice...) up along the bottom of the car, up the firewall and through the grommet for the A/C drain. It's a little tricky, but it makes for a great wire pass-through and it's well hidden. Once the wire(s) is/are pulled through the firewall, snake them back around the heater panel and all the normal crap you'd do to hide wires behind the dash area. I did not take photos of this part. If you can't figure out how to run some wires through your firewall and behind the heater control, you don't need to do this project.
I made this bracket for a switch mounting surface. I used a piece of aluminum 1/2"x1/8". It can be bought at the local hardware store in 6ft. lengths for about $4.00 per stick. It also cuts very easily with a hacksaw. Make the piece long enough so that the switch button arm will be in contact with the clutch pedal arm. Drill a 5/16" hole in one end of the bracket. Mount it to the brake pedal bracket near the steering shaft, using the existing stud/nut combination. There's plenty of room. Use an 1/8" drill bit and some small craft screws (hardware item) to fasten the switch to the other end of the bracket. Once mounted up, it should look something like this.
Set the switch so that when the clutch pedal is all the way up (foot off the pedal) the switch button is depressed.
You want the switch button to release when the clutch pedal is depressed toward the floor about 5-10mm.
Attach the female connectors to the wire ends and plug onto the appropriate spades. The spade labeled "COM" should ALWAYS be connected. The other two spades will determine what switch position opens/closes the circuit.
Again, be certain that the circuit is wired so that when the clutch pedal is in the full upward position, the engine will rev to the moon (switch button pushed in, circuit broken). This way, when the pedal is depressed (between gears, WOT) the engine won't rev over 5200rpm.
After test driving and comparing the standard and WOT shift methods, I found that the WOT method was much smoother between gears, with less forward pitching, and the turbo lag decreased quite significantly.
Thumbs up for a free mod (unless you don't have the scrap lying around to do this, then it might cost you about $10.00...at most.)!