Worldisgrand's Engine Build

[300ZXttZMAN]

02-23-2009, 12:48 AM #5
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5
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Engine: 360 V-8
Accessories: Dual fans, Dual ignitions, Dual fuel pumps, Dual batteries, ect...
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 7,911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfeldman21
I have my jeep stripped out and cleaned and ready to do my spray in bedliner.. But i was wondering if i should wait and pull my old motor out and spray the engine compartment out with it? can this stuff withstand the heat or any ideas on what i should do with it? body paint is nice but inside it has seen better days

The following is his reply to whats bolded and underlined above
DO NOT USE BED LINER IN THE ENGINE BAY!

Most bed liners are 'Urethane' based, and heat will melt Urethane!
That means header heat will melt your liner!
(ask me how I know that!)

Just the exhaust heat under the body made the linter in my tub soft enough you could move it around with your shoes...
So I had to add insulation/heat shields to the pipes under the floor pans!

Pick out a good HIGH TEMPERATURE, TEXTURED PAINT and use that instead of 'Bed Liner' in the engine bay!
__________________
REMEMBER, <This is where the guys sig begins notice whats below haha. "Free internet information is worth exactly what you paid for it" haha I guess he doesn't have faith in his reply
'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it!
LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations.
LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project,
LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect.,
LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate,
LINK: AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition,
LINK:Upgrading The Factory Ignition Module,'78-'86

[worldisgrand]

I'm not too worried, I plan on wrapping a lot of the exhaust up to eliminate some of the heat and also ventilate the engine bay better. I didn't put any bedliner on the exhaust manifold covers or anything directly touching the manifolds. I know it still gets hot under the hood, but I will deal with it when the time comes.

[TTkickedin]

LOL clever response, didn't even catch that that he said that in there.

OP, I hope it works out for you, I was just lookin out.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Still waiting on the better pics worldisgrand

[worldisgrand]

I'll try to take some pictures this afternoon when I'm back home.

I was planning on taking the factory fuel rail and cutting off the feeding tubes that go from the fuel pressure regulators to the fuel rail itself. Then weld them up and tap and thread some feed nipples on the ends instead so I can run the fuel lines from behind instead of on top. My question is has anyone done this before with the oem fuel rail?

Ive got a spare fuel rail so I am going to try and see if it will work any suggestions? Yes I will make sure all fuel has been taken out and make sure its not hooked up to the motor when I do this. (HOW CRAZY DO YOU THINK I AM? Don't answer that.)

[worldisgrand]

Yesterday I was able to take a few more pictures of my progress:

I was going to do a V mount intercooler setup but with the way money is right now I opted to redo the front mount for now.

I also modified the oem fuel rail so that it is no longer top fed but rear fed so I don't have to disconnect it when needing to replace anything up top with the plenum. This also gives it a cleaner look in my opinion.
OEM

Modified OEM






Here is another close up picture of the bedliner surface, Lots of texture, but smooth to the touch.


My next step is to modify the intake to run a filter to each stock intercooler location. I also plan on installing an after market oil cooler since I have already picked up one for the transmission. Might as well replace all anyway, I'm sure they have some buildup in them from over the years.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Couple of things to note:

- be careful with filters in direct air flow, it can cause turbulence and stalling at speed.
- IMHO, get the 16439-16E0A spring fuel clamps from Z-SpeedPerformance, or your local Nissan dealer, or at the very least, rotate the clamps on the crossover pipe like this:
post5966866.html#p5966866
- Be certain the ID of those barbed fittings is the same or bigger than OEM. Otherwise, you're doing yourself a dis-service

[worldisgrand]

Should I put some type of cover on the front side so that it doesn't get direct flow then to help?

[300ZXttZMAN]

Hmm the bed liner doesn't look that bad. Good job on getting the good camera!

The Flower pot mod! should help you thats what T is talking about.

[worldisgrand]

Thanks for the info guys, it will definitely help. Tonight I will be going and picking some up.

[parkerj2]

Flower pot mod thats funny but works

[worldisgrand]

Last night was a very successful night. Got the drive shaft, exhaust, and pretty much everything hooked up.

Cranked the motor over a couple of times and it starts up. The only problem is that it will idle for about 10 seconds and then slowly fall away. It will firstly maintain about 1000 rpm's then drop off to stall. I'm going to go back today after work and double check all plugs, ecu, and start from there. Sounded like a tractor the first time it started up, as it got going it leveled out really well. I'm thinking its nothing too bad otherwise it wouldn't even idle to begin with. I'm hoping that its not the timing, because it idle's nicely. I also cannot rev the engine up very much or it cuts out.

Any suggestions?

[worldisgrand]

The time finally came to start the car and its good news for the most part. Everything is hooked up and the car runs the only problem now is that since I added dual intake I have to get a reflash for the ECU. Not a problem, just have to wait until monday to order it. For right now the car will idle fine at 700rpm and no lifter tick anymore, the loudest noise is coming from the injectors and the exhaust itself. I love the sound of these cars. I'll post some more pics and video of it firing off as soon as I can. I'm hoping to have the exhaust redone with 2.5" piping from the test pipes back cause with the bends it has they get pinched down to about 1.5".

I'm planning on running no more than 5lbs of boost for the next 500 miles and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for me for the break in period?

[worldisgrand]

I figured out that I had the fuel pressure regulator hooked to the wrong side of the fuel rail and it was causing me all my fuel problems. It took me a little bit to get it lined out and everything turned out fine after that. I love it when you can answer your own questions.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Greg from specialty Z told me to do this for my break in period (in his own words):

Runs the car in low gear getting on the throttle firmly, but try to not boost, run to 4000RPM and let go of throttle allowing the RPM to drop to 1000RPM in gear in both first and second gear. On and off the throttle continuing to go between 1000 and 4000RPM for about 5 minutes.

Try to vary the throttle for the first 100 miles and dump the oil.

With the new oil do the same thing going to 5000 RPM for the first drive.

Try not to hold at steady speed, around town driving is best.

Slowly add a little boost limiting to 10 PSI for first 500 Miles.

Change oil again at 500 miles. Run the engine up and down to 6000 RPM and allow moderate boost in first and second gear.

Change oil at 1000 miles and she should be broken in.

I suggest you do the same.

[worldisgrand]

That sounds pretty reasonable to me as well, however, I probably will leave the boost level a little less.

[300ZXttZMAN]

I don't see why that would hurt just try not to boost at all for the first 100 miles.

[worldisgrand]

A buddy at work just told me not to use any boost as well. To run off just motor will only take me about two work days to accomplish that feat. I drive about 64 miles a day round trip. Mostly two lane highway so it will be easy to take her easy.

[300ZXttZMAN]

I wouldn't break it in on the highway.

[worldisgrand]

The speed limit is only 55mph and you have to go through 3 towns to get there so its not just straight highway, its one of those two lain country highways with slow driving and curves. I figured I could take it easy or even take the country roads to work if its going to be difficult.

[worldisgrand]

I just found out today that my new ecu eprom chip arrived from Z1 and its waiting for me when I get off of work, can't wait. This should be the only thing keeping me from driving the car now.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Nice, congrats. Be sure to vary the speed of the engine as well.

[300ZXttZMAN]

I just found out today that my new ecu eprom chip arrived from Z1 and its waiting for me when I get off of work, can't wait. This should be the only thing keeping me from driving the car now.

Let us know how it goes.

[worldisgrand]

Here is some updated pics of it finished for now:













I will post a video of it as soon as I can.

[ZilverZ32]

Hey, this is an awesome and very clean Re-Build you have done! I'm really liking the contrast of the Yellow and Matte Black
I am also probably going to be doing something like this in the near future in order to restore my compression numbers, and I was just wondering how much did all of the Machine Shop work cost you, If you don't mind sharing ?
Ie: Hot tanking, Cleaning, Boring/Honing (If any), 3 < Valve Job, Etc...

[300ZXttZMAN]

^Welcome to Nico make yourself an intro thread and post pics of your Z!

[worldisgrand]

Hey, this is an awesome and very clean Re-Build you have done! I'm really liking the contrast of the Yellow and Matte Black
I am also probably going to be doing something like this in the near future in order to restore my compression numbers, and I was just wondering how much did all of the Machine Shop work cost you, If you don't mind sharing ?
Ie: Hot tanking, Cleaning, Boring/Honing (If any), 3 < Valve Job, Etc...

Here's what I got done to the motor:

Heads tanked
New valve seals installed
3 angle valve seat clean
lifters cleaned
lifters taken apart and reinstalled
Heads milled
Block tanked
Pistons cleaned
Crank miked
Oil pan tanked
New piston rings
Upper Plenum Tanked

Total cost: $535.00 US Includes taxes and all.
That should be everything that the shop did for me.

They did an awesome job and I felt they gave a good deal. Hopefully a lot of people are lucky and have a shop like that around them.

[worldisgrand]

Yesterday was a good day for me because I ended up solving a boost leak I was having. The car would Idle fine and there was no fluctuation in the rpm's at all. It wouldn't however build boost past 3 lbs. Well come to fine out it ended up being the lower intake plenum was not tightened down to spec.

Earlier on I was having an issue with the detonation sensor which turned out to be the plug having corrosion on it. Now 55 code all the way. When I went to put the lower intake plenum on I started to tighten the bolts down and got side tracked with another issue. Well that ended up biting me in the a$$ and put me in the current situation. Well everything is fine and running smoothly now. I couldn't be happier with the whole setup and response. Unfortunately snow is deciding to make its way here.

Today I did get new tires put on the rear and so snow is less of an issue. I plan on taking her down to Salem speedway here in southern Indiana when the weather warms up and gets better. Before that however, I plan on getting a dyno tune done so I can really dial everything in.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Yesterday was a good day for me because I ended up solving a boost leak I was having. The car would Idle fine and there was no fluctuation in the rpm's at all. It wouldn't however build boost past 3 lbs. Well come to fine out it ended up being the lower intake plenum was not tightened down to spec.

Earlier on I was having an issue with the detonation sensor which turned out to be the plug having corrosion on it. Now 55 code all the way. When I went to put the lower intake plenum on I started to tighten the bolts down and got side tracked with another issue. Well that ended up biting me in the a$$ and put me in the current situation. Well everything is fine and running smoothly now. I couldn't be happier with the whole setup and response. Unfortunately snow is deciding to make its way here.

Today I did get new tires put on the rear and so snow is less of an issue. I plan on taking her down to Salem speedway here in southern Indiana when the weather warms up and gets better. Before that however, I plan on getting a dyno tune done so I can really dial everything in.

I told you it had to be a boost leak you just have to find it!!! I am glad you did

[worldisgrand]

That is another reason why I relocated and redid my fuel rail so that now I don't have to worry about disconnecting it when trying to fix something. I think I took the intake manifold off at least 5 different times trying to find the boost leak and check different variables. The only reason why I haven't done a vacuum leak test is because I now have dual intakes and I have to make up another plug for my extra intake. Of course once you know your car in and out and everything is pretty much new on it there is only so much that can be wrong. New stuff can still break right off the bat, but its a lot easier narrowing issues down.

I am hoping that when my tax check gets here I can fix the exhaust once and for all. The test pipes are 2.5" and after that it gets narrowed down to 2" not only that but the bends pinch it down even further. Plus I would like to tuck the exhaust a little further under the car so the tips don't stick out as far.