agreed. There is nothing wrong with a Bosch universal, specifically asked for a o2 sensor for a 1984 300zx turbo and it came as a 3-wire replacement. Went in perfectly and works perfectly. Replaced it because Nissan suggested it as a replacement at 60k and thought at $50 instead of a small fortune at Nissan dealership was a damn good deal...Don't hate cause you went out and spent the big $$$..gawdzilla wrote:why is it a no-no? I'm using some generic bosch replacements for a foxbody 5.0 mustang re-wired for my RB harness. it should be easy to figure out which 2 are for the heater (polarity does not matter) and which wire is for the sensor. open up the harness a bit or trace back. the signal wire is usually shielded. generic 3-wire works, or you could even use a 1-wire if you want.
i do agree that you don't need to randomly replace it at 60k though if it's not busted.
care to back up that claim? miscalibrated how? as in it doesn't read rich/lean? it's not an insignificant amount of money between a universal or other car specific vs. OEM. an OEM sensor is probably at least $50 more and all you're getting is a drop in replacement. buy a universal and solder it to your old broken sensor's plug to salvage it. my motor came with a broken one so i bought a universal bosch replacement. no problems with the car going into closed loop. voltage goes rich/lean above and below .5 V, just like the factory. how is that being a cheap bastard?Joe wrote:and universal sensors suck because sometimes they can be miscalibrated for the readings expected by the ECU you cheap bastards.
of course i have. items that are designed to wear out and break. an o2 sensor is not one of those. you use it TILL it breaks.Rb20_POWER wrote:you've never replaced something before it broke???
aside from the possibility of reading differences (im not an engineer, i dont know) the heater circuit watt ratings can be different and shorten the life of not only the sensor, but the ECU. its not worth the risk to save $40gawdzilla wrote:care to back up that claim? miscalibrated how? as in it doesn't read rich/lean? it's not an insignificant amount of money between a universal or other car specific vs. OEM. an OEM sensor is probably at least $50 more and all you're getting is a drop in replacement. buy a universal and solder it to your old broken sensor's plug to salvage it. my motor came with a broken one so i bought a universal bosch replacement. no problems with the car going into closed loop. voltage goes rich/lean above and below .5 V, just like the factory. how is that being a cheap bastard?