Won't start, cannot figure this out.

[Opuseva]

My 2006 M35x has started acting up - it won't start. It doesn't click, or turn over at all. I've tried a new battery, (which seems to get run down), a charger, a jump... nothing seems to fix this. The windows go up and down, the lights will come on. Sometimes I get a "key" indicator light (meaning the key doesn't match the programming?), but not always. The dash lights that do come on are dim. I can hear a whine from under the hood - back toward the firewall, driver's side, while the car is off. I'm thinking there's some sort of electrical gremlin that is draining the battery and causing it to not recognize the key (even when I put it in the slot). Does anyone have any similar experience and can provide some guidance? Thanks

[Ilya]

Welcome to the forum!

Try this...try putting your key fob RIGHT ON the start button and then start the car. Does it start?

[Opuseva]

Tried it, no change. Still nothing. I forgot to mention, the Security light on the dash is steady red, it usually is a slow blink.

[crweaver]

Have you checked the battery on your remote? Also try putting the remote in the charger & press the start button....

[Larz]

When my 07 M did that, and road service couldn't even jump start me, it was toed to my dealer. They determined that the starter had locked up and kept running since the last time I had driven the car. The starter drained the battery, blew some of the inline fuses on the battery cables, and basically went titz-up. I needed a new battery, new inline fuses, and a new starter.
Check to see if the battery gets hot when you try to start the car. I remember that mine got very warm when this happened.

[Opuseva]

Have you checked the battery on your remote? Also try putting the remote in the charger & press the start button...

Yes, I have done that. Didn't change anything. (The slot on the dash for the fob is not a charger, by the way...)

[cruzad3r]

you said you replaced a new battery? if this is true and you think there's a leak, pop the hood, lock all the doors, and run a meter across the new battery. Good battery should be over 13V when not running and strong enough to start.

IF battery is good, see if you can run a scan for code. I haven't experienced any immobilizer locked that prevented car from starting. When my battery took a dump, i couldn't start at all and i had to replace it to have the car running again.

[Opuseva]

Check to see if the battery gets hot when you try to start the car.

The battery is brand new, replaced it when this happened a month ago. Things were fine for a couple weeks. Now it's happening again. The battery does not seem to get warm, but as I noted, nothing at all happens when I push the button to start the car. I get the reminder to step on the brake pedal and push the button to start it, but (obviously) I'm already doing that. Could it be that it's not 'sensing' that the brake pedal is being pushed, despite my pushing it HARD?

Also, I checked the fuses that are located next to the battery, especially the one labeled for the Ignition switch. Could not see any problems in that group of fuses.

[Opuseva]

pop the hood, lock all the doors, and run a meter across the new battery.
IF battery is good, see if you can run a scan for code. I haven't experienced any immobilizer locked that prevented car from starting. When my battery took a dump, i couldn't start at all and i had to replace it to have the car running again.

Okay, very bad thing. As soon as I hit the button to lock the doors, the horn sounded. Steady, not the usual honk - honk - honk. NOTHING I DID WOULD SHUT IT OFF. I tried to reach the horns to disconnect them, but I think they burned out before I could. (Smell of hot electrical... )

Also, my code scanner does not work unless the car is running. I tried it a few weeks ago to see if there were any codes from the previous problem, but nothing except a U1000, which means nothing. It won't be any help now.

[steve_c]

My 2006 M35x has started acting up - it won't start. I can hear a whine from under the hood - back toward the firewall, driver's side, while the car is off........... I'm thinking there's some sort of electrical gremlin that is draining the battery and causing it to not recognize the key.............[/b] Thanks

Stick with your diagnosis so far...nothing should be whining when car is off. Check to see where the whine is coming from, something is staying on draining your battery. Sounds like it could be blower fan motor, or even your starter.

I would fully charge battery with terminal off, let everything cool down, reinstall bat term after battery is charged.

At this point, you can do 2 things:
A): start pulling fuses one by one until whine stops.
OR
B): just start looking for the source of the whine.....it will be warm (or hot) to the touch as it will be drawing amps while components around it are staying cool.
Try to determine if whine is inside or outside. Could be a bad module driving a component. (the module plastic box would be warm as well).

[Costee]

...nothing except a U1000, which means nothing.

You just might be mistaken. Search for this TSB if able:ITB06-004a. It is titled "MIL “ON” WITH DTC U1000 OR U1010 STORED IN ENGINE CONTROL UNIT." And one of its applied vehicles is: 2006 M(Y50).
Check your ECM ground connections and the negative battery cable body connections.

[crweaver]

Have you checked the battery on your remote? Also try putting the remote in the charger & press the start button...

Yes, I have done that. Didn't change anything. (The slot on the dash for the fob is not a charger, by the way...)

I know it's not a charger...lmao. the intelligent key port would be the correct name. usually when you call things by their correct name people don't know what you talking about. Alot of people think it's a battery charger though. At least you knew what I was talking about though

[Opuseva]

Search for this TSB if able:ITB06-004a. It is titled "MIL “ON” WITH DTC U1000 OR U1010 STORED IN ENGINE CONTROL UNIT." And one of its applied vehicles is: 2006 M(Y50).
Check your ECM ground connections and the negative battery cable body connections.

This sounds very promising as a possible explanation. Unfortunately, it looks like it's a little beyond my abilities, so I'll have the car towed to the dealer and I'll bring this TSB.

[Opuseva]

So, just got a call from the Infiniti service dept. They say it's the IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module). ~$1350 to replace. YIKES!

[EdBwoy]

Thank them for their time, pay the diagnosis fee and tow the car back home.
Buy a used IPDM online and get familiar with the battery compartment. It should take about an hour.
No reset or programming needed.

[Ilya]

Thank them for their time, pay the diagnosis fee and tow the car back home.
Buy a used IPDM online and get familiar with the battery compartment. It should take about an hour.
No reset or programming needed.

Freakin dealers man. But I second this.