Wiring Issues Once Again (Need Guru Help)

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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rico05
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Ok, still battleing with the temp sensor. Ok, it plugs into the ECU at pins 28 and 30 (28 is sensor wire, 30 is ground)

Color at the ECU is: According to FSM 28: L/ORAccording to FSM 30: BIn Real Life 28: Blue with orange stripe and silver dotsIn Real Life 30: Black with silver dots

Color at Sensor:According to FSM: B and L/ORIn real life: Brown and Light Blue

Ok, WTF? I had planned on just running new wires into the ECU plug from the sensor, but seening as how my wires are funny colors that don't match, I am not really sure what to do about this! If pics are needed, I can take em!

Also: I know that the Black 30 pin is a ground for other sensors as well, so I am not really concerned about it being brown so much at the sensor. What does concern me is that the blue at the sensor does not match the blue at the ECU. However: the plug had the rubber around the wire cracked, and the wires looked faded. Mabye this is a clue?


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rico05
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Well, I need to get this done. I guess I will just splice into the wires and run the brown to the black at the ECU and the blue to the blue/orange at the ECU. Wish me luck.....

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biosehnsucht
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well L = blue, and B = black, so the colors at the ECU are correct, alot of times they put various dots on things to tell them apart since there's only a few colors..

the colors at the plug might have faded and or been dirtied..

pics would help, to be sure we're all looking at the same thing, are you sure you're looking at the right harness connector tho? its F21, for the engine temp sensor.. check the E.F.I. harness diagrams in the back of the FSM or look here (sorry, slow, only 256k upload)

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rico05
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Yeah, it is the right one. Yellow connector. Pg. EC&EF 86 in the FSM. Here is a pic to be sure:

Sorry my camera sucks:( No digital zoom blows.

pulsar gtr
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Hi,

If I am not mistaken, that connector that is showing in the picture is for you A.C.C solenoid not your temp sensor, I bet you the plug that is on your A.C.C has the right wires,

PULSAR GTR

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rico05
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HAHAHA. Yep. You were right. Too bad I didn't check this post till AFTER I spliced the other plug. Now I have a nice big mess to sort through. Grumble Grumble Grumble...

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rico05
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Fixed, but now having new problems. I unhooked the battery while doing the wiring. Plug everything back togeather, and run Mode 3. YAY! Code 55! So I run it and set the timing, but the timing won't hold. Ok, that is weird. Run Mode 3 again. Now I am getting 34 and 43 (knock and throttle sensors) I get the knock sensor sometimes and I am not sure why. Could it be the sensor is freaking out because I have open exhaust? Mabye it is picking up the pressue wave from the exhaust pules and thinking that is knock? These codes only show AFTER it has been run, not before and are they are both self diagnosing sensors so I can only assume it is some issue comming up when run.

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biosehnsucht
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I wouldn't say its impossible, that somehow the exhaust pulses are causing more than normal vibration, but it does seem odd since while no exhaust is louder, there ought to be more vibration transmitted to the block via a full system getting vibrations all the way than an open getting it only partly..

were you throwing these just before now? or did this happen after fixing the other wiring issues?

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rico05
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Been throwing it every once in a while. Not an everytime thing. Sean got my dp in the mail today, so I will know by the end of the week...

pulsar gtr
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Check your ground on the detonation sensor, ohm it out to the ecu, if the ground isn't plugged on it, the detonation sensor can get triggered by the noise picked UP from the engine bay.

If it is not the ground, I can't see the exhaust or any thing else causing it to trigger,not even exhaust as detonation occures under higer frequencies and the exhaust has pretty dam low frequencies.

It is either ground problem or detonation sensor is defective.

PULSAR GTR

boost_boy
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Quote »Fixed, but now having new problems. I unhooked the battery while doing the wiring. Plug everything back togeather, and run Mode 3. YAY! Code 55! So I run it and set the timing, but the timing won't hold. Ok, that is weird. Run Mode 3 again. Now I am getting 34 and 43 (knock and throttle sensors) I get the knock sensor sometimes and I am not sure why. Could it be the sensor is freaking out because I have open exhaust? Mabye it is picking up the pressue wave from the exhaust pules and thinking that is knock? These codes only show AFTER it has been run, not before and are they are both self diagnosing sensors so I can only assume it is some issue comming up when run.[/quote] Understand this about the nissan ECCS system, its failsafe is based mainly on retarding timing and running the engine rich which means it pays close attention to the water temprature sensor and knock sensor.

The knock sensor is the "Go-To" guy when one of the system's major components appears defective or open. If the CAS sensor is missing the 1 degree signal, it will immeditely signal the knock sensor to retard timing.

The same goes for all major components.

The TPS is a liable player in this system in the fact thay if there is unusual voltage or if it's malfunctioning, it will rely on the knock sensor to pull back the timing until the fault is cleared or repaired. If you clear it, but don't repair it, it will continously call upon code "34" because indeed code 34 or the knock sensor cicuitry have the ability to pull back the timing and cause a loss in power.

So when you see a particular code followed by code 34, you must pay close attention to the 1st code and it's circuitry. Hope this helps....

Dee

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rico05
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Well it throws 43 first. Never threw that before I hooked up the temp sensor right.

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Bigger Hammer.


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