Winter Incident Project

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
ishkabibble
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brizanden wrote:im so very very sorry but....

found at http://www.oregon.gov/OSP/PATR...shtmlohhhh yeahhhh about that... i hate it when im right.
You're still wrong. Those instructions are for FWD. You want the weight to be on your rear wheels in a RWD car.


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brizanden
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how would u want weight on the rear if the rear is sliding u wanna take weight off as to gain traction..... i dont know if ur being serious or not ish. maybe im just explaining it wrong, but i just talked to spooled for about 10 min and we found out we were essentially saying the same thing. he agrees with me other then that the park on auto is the ultimate solution.edit: it doesnt say anything about fwd or rwd on that thread laws of physics apply to any layout of a car.

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mattblancarte
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http://www.edmunds.com/ownersh....html
edmunds wrote:
Learn how to control a skid: Although this is probably best learned and practiced on a driving course, Pearl describes what you should do if you find yourself in an oversteer situation (meaning: your car is turning too much). "You have to go against your natural tendencies," he says. "Turn into the skid. You also need to accelerate." That last piece of advice seems to freak people out the most, he admits. "People don't think about accelerating to control the car." However, many oversteer skids can be controlled and a disaster averted simply by releasing the brake and gently accelerating. This transfers the weight from the front to the rear wheels, which allows you to steer into the direction of the skid, gain control of the vehicle and continue safely on your way. If you drive a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, cautions Pearl, be careful not to over-accelerate or the tires may spin and you will oversteer and slide out of the turn. In an understeer skid (when your car refuses to turn and is sliding), once again it's important not to react instinctively by over-correcting the steering wheel, by braking or by doing both simultaneously. Understeering is usually caused by entering a corner too quickly and then turning. To turn the vehicle effectively, your wheels need grip. If you react to an understeer skid by turning more, you're only asking for more grip, which is unavailable. The same is true if you brake. Instead, Pearl advises, in an understeer skid, carefully adjust your steering wheel until you regain some grip at the front wheels. Once grip is restored, gently and precisely add steering. Of course, this requires room to maneuver, but if you adhere to point No. 3 above, you should have plenty of room.

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mattblancarte
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brizanden wrote:how would u want weight on the rear if the rear is sliding u wanna take weight off as to gain traction...
No, this is incorrect. More weight will aid in efforts to gain traction.

megaderk
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i have an idea or 2 of what might have caused the back to kick when i was driving.

-i was taking a small curve in the road at the time and then my trans shifted, but it shifted alittle rough, and the jolt might have caused the tires to lose traction. it has happened to me before.

-might have been going alittle fast. i learned even the speed limit is too fast in the snow. i felt like i was sliding off the road at around 18. i think i was going about 20 or 25 at the time though. so makes sense i slid off the road

-a mix of the 2

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brizanden
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mattblancarte wrote:
No, this is incorrect. More weight will aid in efforts to gain traction.
quoting a performance and dry situation is completely different. whatever i stopped caring. i know at least in 3 years of driving in the snow and rain i have gotten out of every slide i have ever been in without ever being afraid of spinning. so imma go play this free game i downloaded with mechs. gl fixing ur car man.

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ilovesideways
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brizanden wrote:you can so let go of the gas and countersteer ive done it so many times and never once spun out. My dad was the one that taught me that and he has been into auto racing for a long time. he even took one of those expensive *** driving classes at mid ohio and they told him under normal driving conditions ie road you let off. if your trying to carry speed then hell yeah you still want some gas u just do throttle adjustments like you said.im so very very sorry but....

found at http://www.oregon.gov/OSP/PATR...shtmlohhhh yeahhhh about that... i hate it when im right.

Modified by brizanden at 10:26 PM 12/2/2008
I love it when you're still wrong...which you are. Shut up while your ahead. Those instructions are for a FWD (secret: 240's are rwd)

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mattblancarte
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brizanden wrote:quoting a performance and dry situation is completely different.
That article was titled, "How to: Drive in the Snow." I'm not trying to be a jerk or argue, I just want to make sure we're giving accurate advice here.

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brizanden
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^sorry didnt click the link. ur right.
ilovesideways wrote:
I love it when you're still wrong...which you are. Shut up while your ahead. Those instructions are for a FWD (secret: 240's are rwd)
where does it say fwd? please quote it? and im still ahead cause i gave up convincing ur dumbass i know what im talking about. ill be looking for your thread "**** i crashed" have to fix x, y and b.have a greatttttt day sir oh wait ur a little kid. Have a good day junior

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ilovesideways
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brizanden wrote:^sorry didnt click the link. ur right.

where does it say fwd? please quote it? and im still ahead cause i gave up convincing ur dumbass i know what im talking about. ill be looking for your thread "**** i crashed" have to fix x, y and b.have a greatttttt day sir oh wait ur a little kid. Have a good day junior
Jeeze...don't get you panties in a wad. I thought only a$$holes said "junior" It's funny that you have to bring age into something...it truly shows how immature you are.

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wynnEZ
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Well this winter project got murdered. BTW dont let off the gas just feather it...

megaderk
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is there anyone in the chicago area whos good with body work or atleast has experience who wouldnt mind coming by n give an opinion or help me out alittle bit with the work? my dads tellin me not to do this alone n get help from people who know what their doing.

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snwbrdr435
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And this is why i stay out of 240gen, good luck fixing your car man. Everyone learns from their experiences.

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ilovesideways
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Don't you stay out because you drive an I30?

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snwbrdr435
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Maybe i do now but it wasnt always that way or maybe i just dont list everything i have.


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ilovesideways
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brizanden
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stop being a punk ... ok im done now.

megaderk
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finally found my camera.ill have pics up by later tonight or tomorrow after school

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edwinS13
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hbpignosePA wrote:to the OP sucks about the car hopefully you can get it lookin decent, but imho diy with no body experience is gonna look rather crappy at least have someone help you thats got the know how

or leave it, battle scars are cool right?

to edwin let us know how that works with the tree... personally if your too cheap to take it to a frame shop than you deserve to mess it up more than it already is

seriously thats not gonna work and will probably completely f*5k up your car entirely but hey make sure you take pictures so we can watch
i dont know about you but im not up to pay 1500 at a shop, i could buy myself another 240 with that money.

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Nicks97SX
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I'm glad you all E-fight like this in a thread where a guy simply asked for advice...

Thread fail...

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edwinS13
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well a thread without pics asking for advice will 99.9% of the time end up in a battleground of endless opinions and facts that is pointless like the war in iraq.....OOOOOHHH!!! +1 for edwin

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hai1206vn
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for RWD when you start sliding and suddenly lift the gas, more weight shifts to front wheels so your rear gets even lighter and won't stop. On dry or wet road you can get away with it but snow won't forgive. Keep the gas the same and only use the steering wheel to correct. Most people by instinct drop the gas, which is why FWD is safer to drive.

arguing is pointless. Go find a parking lot when it starts snowing and try out the limits

megaderk
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Nicks97SX wrote:I'm glad you all E-fight like this in a thread where a guy simply asked for advice...

Thread fail...
thank you

megaderk
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PICTURES!

i took it to MAACO today to get an estimate and they said if they were to do a ****ty job and make it just look good then it will come out to at the cheapest $1000 and thats with me getting parts the parts cheaper then they can. he said the trunk lid alone would be $500. but i could get one online for like what? $150? he was suprised when i said i could get tails for $60.

anyways, i found a good coupe with a blown head gasket online going for like 750 so im looking into that. the guy at MAACO even agreed itd be cheaper to go with that n swap **** over then to fix this one.

i finally got the trunk lid to shut and latch today.the metal in the spare tire well is actually folded into its self and i guess layered is a good way to put it. they said its to much work n money and not worth it unless i had some real attachment to it. i admit i loved this car and its been a great first car. but i dont love it that much.

heres the pics.


























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edwinS13
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OOOHH!! its really close to RIP, theres hope brother!!! heat that biotch and bang it out of its misory

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edwinS13
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and about taking the bumper off, there are bolts attached to the upper and bottom part of the bumper that holds onto the bumper support, well theyre not exactly bolts, more like little plastic screws, the bottom ones are pretty easy to reach if the damage didnt push the bumper really close to the gas tank. in my situation i had to practically rip the bumper off tearing all the little bolts off. in your case it should be fairly easy, the top ones are a biotch, in some cases, you need to reach those using A LOT of patience.

megaderk
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bump

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ilovesideways
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That's not bad at all, it doesn't look to be structural so I would just go out and buy a new bumper, lid, center thingy (can't remember what they call that on coupes) taillights and that should do it. Probably spend $200.00 total not including paint

megaderk
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thanks to many different sized hammers, some friends, and a couple choicely placed drop kicks, got the bumper off and did my best to fix it. i dont have pics yet, dad has camera, but i got the work done yesterday since it was nice out and im happy about it. it looks alot better then before. pics up tomorrow or this weekend

whats left to fix is the trunk lid and the tail lights and making therm more flush. there is stil a small gap.

since this event, iv collected a few more projects.-my exhaust has rusted off from the resonator back. which also isnt connected anymore but i didnt take it off yet.-my back brakes are bare so i need to replace those.-and my Idle Air Control Valve is busted so my car idles at 2000 RPM constantly. my buddy has a 80s V8 chevy truck and its gettin better gas mileage then a stock automatic 4banger 240.

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1SickSilvia
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I also think its not that bad, if you take the bumper off, than you will see what happened underneath, and see how far the bumper supports and rear panel got pushed in. From the looks of it, you could hammer it out with a big hamer and a piece of 2x4, and just replace the bent parts and paint it.. Go to a local pick your part and with some luck, you will find the replacement parts for cheap. Good luck with the fix.


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