Winter Driving

[Vet Boots]

Is anyone planning on driving their A/C durring the winter or put it up and drive a winter beater???

[LinkNuc]

Yup, I'll be giving some reviews as I get massive lake effect snows up here (no not as much as the people on Lake Ontario, Oswego, Buffalo etc, but still alot of snow)...stay tuned, staying all stock through the winter.

[chow]

I dont see why you wouldnt.. 1) Its not a sports car.. 2) Most importantly it isnt RWD. 3) It isnt worth it to keep it inside while paying massive insurance when u can safely drive it in the snow b/c its fwd.

[adidas2go]

i think its a sports car

[MagicM]

the term "SPORTS CAR" is soo generally used on any car that "goes fast", that i don't think there is such a thing as a sports car.

[bembol]

If I had kept my '02 Acura RSX, I would've used it as my "Winter Beater." LOL

I hate Winter.

[Hussain]

i think its a sports car

same here! lol us California people don't have to worry about not driving our A/C in the winter because it just rains in Cali, no snow or anything (well most parts of Cali)

[Miss_Lanaya]

I'll be driving mine this winter....hope its a winter warrior. And if someone slides into me.....god be with them 2

[SHIFT_COUPE]

I'll be driving the car in the winter using the stock tires. I'll be attempting to keep it at a minimum though. The car should be fine in the snow, I'm not really worried about it. I'm more concerned about it getting dirty

[Vet Boots]

I'll be driving the car in the winter using the stock tires. I'll be attempting to keep it at a minimum though. The car should be fine in the snow, I'm not really worried about it. I'm more concerned about it getting dirty

That's what I'm concerned about.....all the dirt and crap on the road durring the winter. I'm sure it will go in the snow ok as long as it's not too deep. But the Rock salt and Rock sand and Rock calcium and other chemicals to keep the water from freezing will raise hell with everything underneath. But I guess I'll try it this winter,,,see what happens. Hope I don't get too many dings or a chipped windshield. It's gonna be a long 4 months.

[generic808]

What's the fuss about all this winter driving doodaa? Oh yeah, we don't have winters here

[SHIFT_COUPE]

Hey Eric! Take a hike buddy! Don't you have a girlfriend thats stuck in a trunk somewhere? Go get errrr

[Cali 2 Balti G]

As the driver of a RWD sports car with the performance package that includes summer tires, which I have replaced with larger 20" summer tires - yes - once the temperature nears freezing the car will have to be parked. My winter beater will be a Dodge Ram 4 x 4.



I assume the Altima come with all season tires - if they are summer performance tires then you may have some issues if you experience real winter conditions.

[LinkNuc]

Yup, stockers are touring all-season tires

[mcheddadi]

wintrer beater, as in driving another car?

No way, I just installed my two electrode electronic rust protection and I just bought a set of 4 brand spanking new Michelin Alpin Pilot PA3 high performance winter tires. I'm gonna blaze this winter!

[LinkNuc]

Um, the "2 electrode" rust protection, hate to break it to ya, doesn't do anything, seriously there is a company out this way called CounterAct, believe me it dosent help in order for the "electro-rust protection" to work you'd to be constantly submerged in a conductive type medium, for the circuit of "protective electrons" to work. And even at that you'd need a lot more than 2 electrodes to make it effieciently work.

It is a viable option for marine type applications especially Salt Water based apps such as oil rigs.

Its called cathodic protection and its snake oil, trust me I'm an engineer.

Here's a nifty how it works: http://www.stoprust.com/pdf/15/CP-101-2007.pdf

Modified by LinkNuc at 1:15 PM 11/14/2007
Modified by LinkNuc at 1:19 PM 11/14/2007

[generic808]

Hey Eric! Take a hike buddy! Don't you have a girlfriend thats stuck in a trunk somewhere? Go get errrr

Nah, I think I'll leave her in there until I finish that venti Starbucks sitting in back

[mcheddadi]

Um, the "2 electrode" rust protection, hate to break it to ya, doesn't do anything, seriously there is a company out this way called CounterAct, believe me it dosent help in order for the "electro-rust protection" to work you'd to be constantly submerged in a conductive type medium, for the circuit of "protective electrons" to work. And even at that you'd need a lot more than 2 electrodes to make it effieciently work.

It is a viable option for marine type applications especially Salt Water based apps such as oil rigs.

Its called cathodic protection and its snake oil, trust me I'm an engineer.

Here's a nifty how it works: http://www.stoprust.com/pdf/15/CP-101-2007.pdf

Modified by LinkNuc at 1:15 PM 11/14/2007

Modified by LinkNuc at 1:19 PM 11/14/2007

You could be god and I wouldn't care, Mr. "I am an engineer". I did lots of chemistry in university and think this is brilliant!

Anyways, I'm gonna report on this in the summer for results of the electronic rust proofing

Consider this an ongoing real life test.

[Goon]

Yep, I'll be using this car for winter. I'll be facing the Lake Effect up in Central New York and maybe some Western New York should I decide to go there for some excursions.

I'll write some reports. :p

[LinkNuc]

Sorry to get you all worked up, I'm just trying to protect people that bought into this snake oil (as I almost did). I wasn't bragging about being an engineer, I was just backing up my statement. If you are indeed a Chemist then this should be of no surprise to you.

Here's another excerpt of why:

"One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.

But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car."

Or to think of it simply, you car is ON 4 TIRES!!! Last time I checked rubber is an insulator not a conductor...

Here ya go if you don't trust U.S. Engineers here's a test done in your own house.

http://ziebart.mb.ca/home/content/view/55/2/


Modified by LinkNuc at 8:59 AM 11/15/2007

[Cali 2 Balti G]

Anyways, I'm gonna report on this in the summer for results of the electronic rust proofing

Consider this an ongoing real life test.

What would you be reporting? That your car didn't rust. Wouldn't every other new Altima Coupe owner be able to report the same thing - since you wouldn't expect a car to begin rusting out until years after the purchase.

[LinkNuc]

Ouch, Cali that was a little harsh, lol. But I guess it needed to be said, if your car dosen't rust after 1 winter, um, well, that would be expected...

I am just trying to keep others from wasting money on snake oil. Save your money for something useful like spinners. Like I said at first I was like cool that has potential (pun not intended), I know its used on marine applications. Then I thought about it for about 3 seconds and realized that it can't work for automobiles.

Here's a funny link

http://www.thecarconnection.co....html
Modified by LinkNuc at 11:59 AM 11/15/2007

[chow]

I have a strong chemistry backround, although not a chemist.. had to do alot of it.

I can say it doesnt work :P Just like the engineer above me had stated.

The only reason i wanted to buy it from the dealer was because first, they offered me a "deal" that they offer to.. everyone.. but try to make it seem like its a one time only offer. Secondly, the dealership offers a lifetime warranty on the module AND if rust appears on the car. That was the catch, so knowning that it wouldn't work and the car will rust in a few years.. Im paying for them to always sand off the rust.. But i sensed some fishiness about it and decided agaisnt it :P

Im going to go with oil sprays.

[mcheddadi]

Sorry to get you all worked up, I'm just trying to protect people that bought into this snake oil (as I almost did). I wasn't bragging about being an engineer, I was just backing up my statement. If you are indeed a Chemist then this should be of no surprise to you.

Here's another excerpt of why:

"One has to understand the principle of CP to understand that the technique works by forcing a protective flow of electrons to the metal that needs protection. For this process to work, you need a complete electrical circuit to bring the electrons back. In the case of an outboard motor on a boat, the sea water completes the circuit. In the case of a bridge, the wet soil completes the circuit.

But in your car, the only way to complete the circuit on all the metal in your car is to drive into seawater or be buried in soil! There are various products on the market claiming to provide cathodic electrochemical protection to your car, just by injecting electrons into your metal work - but they don't work. Countries like Canada and the U.S.A. have actually got court orders to stop these products from being sold - simply because they don't work. In your car, there are lots of little nooks and crannies where dirt and/or water can collect. The rust happens not where the metal is dry, nor where the metal is wet - but at the interface between the wet and dry metal. So if you screwed a bunch of anodes right on the interface or one or two millimeters thereof, you would protect your car. But you would need thousands of these anodes over your car."

Or to think of it simply, you car is ON 4 TIRES!!! Last time I checked rubber is an insulator not a conductor...

Here ya go if you don't trust U.S. Engineers here's a test done in your own house.

http://ziebart.mb.ca/home/content/view/55/2/

Modified by LinkNuc at 8:59 AM 11/15/2007

Well the tires being insulators is what makes it so brilliant, this make the circuit complete, one positive electrode and another negative one at the back diagonally and then you have a closed circuit, they are applied on the unpainted body of the cart so you have your conductive material there that touches every other metallic part of the car, directly or indirectly. It doesn't have to be submerged in any liquid to work and you slow down any oxidation process!

And by ongoing test, well I never said it would stop next summer, in 5 to 6 years i'm still going to check for rust, and I'll post some results here but normally after one winter with all the salt here, we begin to see rust spots on the brake pads, so If I don't have those I'll know for sure that something is up. With my 04 maxima, after the first winter we could see some rust spots on the brake pads

[LinkNuc]

I'm gonna stop arguing, its your money do what you want...and man you really don't understand the technology behind what cathodic rust protection does to make it work in applications such as oil rigs, bridges and boats and why it cannot work on automobiles, besides for the science behind it, there is empirical proof, right there done in Canada! Sheesh!

The comment about the complete circuit, oh boy, any Spark E's out there wanna jump on that?

Again I am just trying to save other people from wasting their money, I 'm really not trying to bash you...just razzin' ya a little...no worries...

[AltiCoupeDriver]

Heck NO! The whole reason I traded a G35 was so that I had something to drive safely all year round without any major problems. This is a FWD car mang.

[Miss_Lanaya]

Mcheddedi lives out in Eastern Canada, and cars out there tend to rust really fast due to all the salt and harsh weather, faster than where I am anyways, Ive seen new cars from out east that are already extremely rusty (under carriage)....I think anything is worth a try....

[CoupeSlate]

im still going to drive it

.....even though where i live winter is considered 55 degrees

[generic808]

55 is cold for us! Whenever it dips into the low 60's, you'll see people walking around in thick sweaters and jackets!!

[shift_mikey]

I'll drive it as long as there is no snow or threat of snow. Any potential for the salt spreaders to be out, will mean the alti's in the garage.

My big ol' ugly jeep will be my chariot through the snowy days

oh, and not to keep the rusteze bumper ointment thing going, but where do you attach the sacrificial electrode? Shirley the "oxidation" has the be removed some how, it doesn't just get neutralized...