Will this setup give atleast 200hp?

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SkillaSX
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Ok I want my car to reach the 200hp mark with bolt ons and slight mechanical work. Will this setup allow me to reach my goal?

Rebuilt Engine Ka24e

144hp

Apexi dual n1 exhaust----------------------9hpInjen air intake-------------------------------7hphot shot header------------------------------12hpUnorthodox lightweight crank pulley-----8hpMSD ignition system-------------------------4hpPerformance cams----------------------------5hpJWT ECU upgrade----------------------------8hpNGK spark plugs------------------------------0.25hpMoroso Ultra race wire set------------------0.5hp

53.75hp +144hp= 197.75hp

I pretty much guessed on all of those hp ratings, so If my car isn't at 200hp with all of those bolt ons, then what else should I add to my list.


kevy8up
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I cant tell if yer gonna rebuild or you already did....but u can put some forged pistons and rods in there..... If you do u can turbo at a decent boost.

BUT...if yer gonna rebuild and add all that on...why not just get a stock SR or RB?

trpower7
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I doubt it. That's really theoretical crank hp, not wheel hp. Plugs, wires, and an ignition won't add a thing to the stock hp rating. That's Honda talk. You may be looking about 165-70 wheel HP when you're done with all that. Also, your SOHC has probably seen better days and isn't putting out it's factory HP numbers. For the money all that cost you could be well on your way to a turbo kit, where real HP numbers are attainable. If you REALLY want to get 200 NA wheel HP you'll need to get some high compression pistons, lots of head-work, and likely a custom intake manifold. For that kind of money, you could already have a turbo kit. Do some more research, use the search function, this has been discussed a thousand times.

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quiksilvia
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the cams will prolly give you more hp, u could get a bigger maf while doing the ecu retune and then bigger fuel pump and injectors, and a fuel computer to maximize the power

~*IdIoT bOx*~
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Sounds like ricer talk man. Thats stuff is all theoretical like trpower7 said. You can't think like that.

ilkhan
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trpower7 wrote:For the money all that cost you could be well on your way to a turbo kit, where real HP numbers are attainable. If you REALLY want to get 200 NA wheel HP...you could already have a turbo kit.


And if you simply wanted 200RWHP with a turbo (on a KA24DE) how hard would that be?

toki
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AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA *breath* HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Apexi dual n1 exhaust----------------------9hphow about NOOOOOO.

Injen air intake-------------------------------7hphow about THRREEEEEEEE

hot shot header------------------------------12hphow about 7 tops. if your old headers were glogged. with paper towles.

I love how you completly forget all the things that actually make a naturally aspirated motor have better numbers! Like porting and polishing, a new cam, higher compression ration, valve jobs, over boring! 200hp 4cyl NA motor is just not worth the time to me unless you are driving a F1 car vroom vroom. Bolt ons will never ever ever ever ever get you there. If you want a silly NA engine, you are going to take your car to a proffessional engine shop, leave it there for a month, give them $4000, and walk away with dun dun dun. 200hp. Congrats. Or you can be cool (much like myself), and ghetto rig a safe yet low boost turbo system for under a 1000. you can run 5psi with a junkyard intercooler safely on 91 with nothing to the fuel system other than a new pump maybe.

trpower7
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Very easy. It can be done on stock internals. 5PSI on a Starion or sidemount IC with a FMU and a Walbro pump. Probably could use a T3 off of an old Z31, or various other cars. I imagine I could do it for under $1800 easily.

1) Z31 Turbo: $200 (that's on the high side)2) JGS Manifold: $3003) Piping: $1804) Starion IC: $1005) Lines and fittings for turbo: $456) Downpipe fab: $1007) DSM BOV: $258) FMU: $1509) Walbro 255LPH: $100

Do all the work yourself, that brings it to about $1200. $800 more you could probably rebuild your current engine with fresh stock parts, assuming you do all the work yourself. The way I see it an all out NA buildup of a KA is just not economically viable.

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SkillaSX
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I want to get a turbo, but the problem is that I don't have enough money to do that at this point in time. There are more important things to do to my car before I add a turbo on it. I am currently buying a sound system for my car and in the near future I will also be buying new shocks, struts, springs, rims, and tires. The thing I like about boltons is that you add them on as you go along. With a turbo or an engine swap you have to have all the money right upfront, and for a 17 year old working at a part time job, going to school and having a girlfriend........ thats really hard to do.

trpower7
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Nope, buy parts, put them in your closet till you can do somethign worthwhile. If you really want to go fast the money for a sound system, rims, and tires, should easily get you what I mentioned above. Who needs "rims" if your car is 80 wheel hp faster than it started out. Do it right, the first time. If this is your daily driver, I'll bet there are a ****-load of maintenance issues that should be taken care of as well.

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SkillaSX
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How much does a port n polish usually go for, for this engine?

Nismo_Freak
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Depends solely on who performs the work.

It won't be too high since you have only 12 ports.

If your wanting an N/a build then I'd prefer to start off with the KA24DE engine... but sometimes money prevents such luxuries.

bruinbear714
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SkillaSX wrote:Ok I want my car to reach the 200hp mark with bolt ons and slight mechanical work. Will this setup allow me to reach my goal?

Rebuilt Engine Ka24e

144hp

Apexi dual n1 exhaust----------------------9hpInjen air intake-------------------------------7hphot shot header------------------------------12hpUnorthodox lightweight crank pulley-----8hpMSD ignition system-------------------------4hpPerformance cams----------------------------5hpJWT ECU upgrade----------------------------8hpNGK spark plugs------------------------------0.25hpMoroso Ultra race wire set------------------0.5hp

53.75hp +144hp= 197.75hp

I pretty much guessed on all of those hp ratings, so If my car isn't at 200hp with all of those bolt ons, then what else should I add to my list.


Lemme reprase this.

Apexi dual n1 exhuast--$550-----5rwhpInjen cold air intake with extention-$250----3rwhpHotshot header--$330---8rwhpLightented pulley-$100---3rwhpMSD ignition-$250?-- 1, 2, or 3 rwhp, not sureNismo cams - $380 - dunno, 5rwhp max?JWT ECU Upgrade - $600 - lets say 10rwhp maxspark plugs - $40 - up to 1rwhp if your previous plugs were badplug wires - $??? - ???

Total cost: over $2500Total HP gain: around 40rwhp.

Now the KA24E is rated at something like 140hp/150tq. Assuming 15% drivetrain loss, that leaves you with 120hp/128tq.

Addin those mods, you get about 160-170rwhp at MOST.

These figures may be way off, but the point is that if you want a faster car, you will have to either do serious engine work or slap on a turbo kit. I know, because I have the majority of the mods done to my car already (and my friend's ka24e is fully decked out for N/A), and although a lot of the parts could be re-used when I go turbo (e fans, pulley, cams, plugs, wires, etc), I wished I saved the money for a turbo kit instead because that'll get you MOST HP PER BUCK, aside from running nitrous.

crazy2002mexican
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bruinbear714 "]Lemme reprase this.

Apexi dual n1 exhuast--$550-----5rwhpInjen cold air intake with extention-$250----3rwhpHotshot header--$330---8rwhpLightented pulley-$100---3rwhpMSD ignition-$250?-- 1, 2, or 3 rwhp, not sureNismo cams - $380 - dunno, 5rwhp max?JWT ECU Upgrade - $600 - lets say 10rwhp maxspark plugs - $40 - up to 1rwhp if your previous plugs were badplug wires - $??? - ???

Total cost: over $2500Total HP gain: around 40rwhp.

You honestly will never know how much power all thats gonna get unless you dyno it. I know for the ka24de injen cold air intake gives basically 14 to the wheels. Im gonna port and polish mine and either go nitrous or turbo..I hate posting on this forum cause you all arent very nice :D . But heres somethin i can back my statement up with...the link!!

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quiksilvia
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we are very nice :)

trpower7
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Nope, doesn't give anything close to that in the real "not-Injen-trying-to-sell-my-product" world. If you are putting your trust in a Injen dyno chart you are a moron. It's not even close. I'd say you don't belong if you think that's reliable information.......

bruinbear714
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crazy2002mexican wrote:
Originally posted by bruinbear714 "]Lemme reprase this.

Apexi dual n1 exhuast--$550-----5rwhpInjen cold air intake with extention-$250----3rwhpHotshot header--$330---8rwhpLightented pulley-$100---3rwhpMSD ignition-$250?-- 1, 2, or 3 rwhp, not sureNismo cams - $380 - dunno, 5rwhp max?JWT ECU Upgrade - $600 - lets say 10rwhp maxspark plugs - $40 - up to 1rwhp if your previous plugs were badplug wires - $??? - ???

Total cost: over $2500Total HP gain: around 40rwhp.

You honestly will never know how much power all thats gonna get unless you dyno it. I know for the ka24de injen cold air intake gives basically 14 to the wheels. Im gonna port and polish mine and either go nitrous or turbo..I hate posting on this forum cause you all arent very nice :D . But heres somethin i can back my statement up with...the link!!


Hey I have an advanced timing kit that they sell on ebay for $15... I'll sell it to you for only $10 and it adds 10 horses easily. Want to buy it?

I don't mean to sound like a **** - I'm just warning you not to expect the difference to be night and day when you just tack on an intake.

The cool factor is there, but the benefits are marginal.

lbrowne
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If i gained 8-10 rwhp from the exhaust cut out on my LT1 v8, (actual dyno results to prove) I highly doubt you're getting 5 rwhp from that exhaust on your car. Maybe 7hp to the flywheel.

Plugs, wires on your 240sx....no hp gain.

Trust me, if you can not afford to spend the dough to make it turbo or like the guys said earlier...you'll be thorwing away what money you have to only fall short of your goal in the long run.

Save your money, and save over time, then boost the fuqer :)

Or as someone else said, get into major engine work. Even then I think you may end up dissappointed when you can see what your car would have been if you spent your money differently.

peace :)

lbrowne

PS - neeeeeeeever go by manufacturer's horsepower gain claims :)

crazy2002mexican
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trpower7 wrote:Nope, doesn't give anything close to that in the real "not-Injen-trying-to-sell-my-product" world. If you are putting your trust in a Injen dyno chart you are a moron. It's not even close. I'd say you don't belong if you think that's reliable information.......


wow just like i said its peeps like you y i dont post here....i givemy 2 cents i wouldnt put much into that since its a sohc but good luck and maybe this can give u some idea

trpower7...ehh nm i wont

Flying_Ryan1119
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get cams that will move your power curve to the rightif your max output is at 5000 rpms vs 3500 rpms, your hp will be higher (at least according to something i read in a magazine about cams)

bruinbear714
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crazy2002mexican wrote:wow just like i said its peeps like you y i dont post here....i givemy 2 cents i wouldnt put much into that since its a sohc but good luck and maybe this can give u some idea

trpower7...ehh nm i wont


That's a more believelable graph...but still, $1000 later and you only gain 15rwhp/13rwtq PEAK, and that is the keyword. That doesn't mean you gain 15rwhp/13rwtq throughout the powerband.

I'd prefer building that up for turbo over the DE engine anyday for a project. Its easier to work with, parts are cheaper to buy (and easier to locate), compression ratio is turbo friendly, AND I can remap the fuel/ignition/maf data by going into the eeprom and changing data around since I already HAVE the data and it is partially mapped out.

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BadMojo
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SkillaSX,

Check out this thread to see how expensive it really is to reach the 200HP mark (to the wheels) without forced induction.

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....33665

trpower7
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Exactly my point. Combinations of modifications can yield larger numbers, in NO world does an intake get 14 hp to the wheels. Dyno runs like that are made to sell product, not have actual results. Ask any member here that has taken his/her to a dyno on a normal day with a normal car, hell, a lot of the time people LOSE power. The main difference an intake makes is in throttle response, with a noise payoff. If intakes like that made that kind of power consistently, your car would have come stock with one. And "peeps" like me give information like this so we don't have to deal with morons saying they're going to get themselves "hooked up with a mad tyte intake system" for their car that isn't going to do jack squat in the real world. Another HUGE factor is that these dynos are usually run in a cold room, open hoods, with big *** fans blowing straight onto that filter. HEAT SOAK mean anything to you? In the land of the real, no intake will ever make 14 wheel hp, ever.


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